Replies

1. 
   woodroe | Mar 06, 2007 03:29am | #1

   I'm not familiar with the product. I went to GP's web site and discovered it has a three month warranty. Call them quick.

   I'm guessing your problem has to do with the skim coat method or product. I would call the rep. out and find out what went wrong before you try to remedy the problem.

2. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 06, 2007 04:43am | #2

   You neglected to tell us where the cracks are specifically.

   Are they at the joints??

   Remember; if you tape the joints with fiberglass tape, you MUST use a setting type compound. Drying type or bucket mud is NOT allowable as a scratch or set mud when using fiberglass tape.

   I like to second coat with setting type compound as much as possible as well.

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1. 
   drarch | Mar 06, 2007 09:07pm | #3

   The cracks are... everywhere. they do not seem to follow any of the joint lines. They appear to be more prevalent at the corners- within 18", but they also extend for several feet and in te center of the walls in some cases. We cut out a sample and the cracks only pentrate about 1/16" of an inch, with a slight raise to the surface at the cracks. I believe the contractor used paper tape. The Densarmor website indicates that because the product does not absorb moisture the same way as paper- backed product that the dry time could be more. Could applying the primer coat over the compound before it is fully cured be a possible cause this type of cracking, or do you think the compound was put on too thick?

1. 
   woodroe | Mar 07, 2007 02:31am | #8

   Sounds to me like the base coats may not have been thouroughly dried before subsequent coats and paint. That would be consistient with the cracking occurring at the corners where there is a heavier application of mud. I don't think this product absorbs moisture like a paper faced drywall, so it dries from the surface in only. That might tend to make the surface appear dry, while there is still a fair amount of moisture below. Latex paint which takes up to 30 days to cure would also not show cracking right away, but would appear as the paint cures and the material below dries out.

1. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 07, 2007 02:56am | #9

    Latex paint which takes up to 30 days to cure would also not show cracking right away, but would appear as the paint cures and the material below dries out.

   I think you hit the nail on the head.

   I think a THIN skim coat or just filling in the "cracks" might be enough to save his job along with a good paint job.[email protected]

    

    

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2. 
   Nick25 | Mar 07, 2007 01:34am | #5

   Eric, do you mean mix your own must be used for fiberglass mesh like d.b90 or 45? I used fiberglass mesh in my house and I just used regular boxed mud, seemed to turn out fine. Or is that for only when you use g.p or other paperless drywall? Thanks Nick

1. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 07, 2007 01:50am | #6

   The Densarmour spec sheet warn specifically against using mesh tape and regular drywall compound.

   As for sheetrock I have heard of and obtained mixed results.

   Being that I am usually doing smaller jobs limited in scope to a room the size of a bath or kitchen, I like to use setting type compounds as much as possible both for strength and speed of process.[email protected]

    

    

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2. 
   Nick25 | Mar 07, 2007 02:18am | #7

   Thanks for your response

3. 
   jrnbj | Mar 06, 2007 10:36pm | #4

   just curious as to why/where you would spec Denshield and a full skim coat-?