Designing small appliance kit. circuits
WillieWonka
| Posted in General Discussion on
When laying out the design for the small appliance kitchen circuits the code requires at least two small appliance circuits if I recall correctly. When designing the wiring schematic for these circuits is it best to have one duplex on one circuit, and alternate the next nearby duplex on the other circuit, and so on? Or is it best to have the top half of the duplex on one ckt and the bottom half on the other all the way around the countertops? Also as I may recall the small appliance ckts can share a neutral and I can therefore run 12/3 accordingly.
If at first you don’t succeed, try using a hammer next time…everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
Replies
I would alternate duplexes, fewer conductors present in each wall box -- makes life a little easier.
Don't forget all the CT duplexes need to be GFCI protected - one wall unit for each circuit - rest can be standard duplexes if GFCI is wired properly at the head of the line.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
Edited 10/28/2007 7:08 pm ET by JTC1
Yep, I had the GFI requirement covered but thanks for the double check.
Alternating duplexes sounds like the better idea but if it's more professional or more common otherwise I wanted to do it that way.If at first you don't succeed, try using a hammer next time...everything needs some extra persuasion from time to time. -ME
You can't have the top on one circuit and the bottom on another and still have GFCI protection unless you use a double-pole GFCI breaker.
(Well, actually you probably can, but then you have to run two separate romexes, vs using a 3-wire romex with shared neutral.)
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
And split both the hots and neutrals..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I think Bill (96346.6) is referring to breaking tabs on both hot and neutral sides of recptacle.
Sounds like a good time to use a 4x4 box and mud ring too with that many wires in the pass through receptacles.
Or use the two-pole GFCI breaker & 3-wire cable, or "hopscotch" outlets between two circuits.Note that the code has been "adjusted" fairly frequently in this area, and that local inspectors may have their own, uh, "preferences" that should be observed. So best to check with the inspector as to what requirements are.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
I was only addressing his desire (or possible preference ) to have two circuits on one strap. Sorry for confusion. But you are certainly right, hey that is what you do, I am not an electrician (did not even stay at Hol. Inn Express).
First, lay out your kitchen as you intend to use it. Then assign circuits as you imagine them being used.
For example, if all your 'heavy draw' appliances (microwave, bread machine, toaster-oven) are stored, and used in the same corner of the counter, only ONE at a time .... then it might make sense for only that receptacle to be on the second circuit.
In another example, say you intend using several such appliances at the same time - say, when you fix Thanksgiving dinner - then it makes sense to have a separate circuit in each location. If this means four circuits, so be it. As the NEC says at the very beginning: the code is NOT a design manual, nor does it provide for future growth.
In homes, I avoid 'sharing neutrals.' One loose wire nut, and everything gets zapped with 220 .... you can be sure the most expensive appliances will die. Also, the GFI will die - though it may still let power through.
For a similar reason, I try to keep it to one circuit in any particular box .... there's less for the DIY to screw up later.
### For example, if all your 'heavy draw' appliances (microwave, bread machine, toaster-oven) are stored, and used in the same corner of the counter, only ONE at a time .... then it might make sense for only that receptacle to be on the second circuit.@@@Colleague, doing a kitchen remodel, found that the HO had 43 amps of requirement on one outlet if he fired everything off at once. Supposed to be a 20A cic., but some gomer had used 14g wire.I would home run the microwave and fridge on their own personal 20A circuits. If there is an appliance garage, I'd HR that, then get on to the small appliance circuits. My condo is circa '62 and when the microwave is on, dim go the lights.The ToolBear
"Never met a man who couldn't teach me something." Anon.
I have not bothered to checkout what is on my 2 kitchen small appliacne circuit.But EVERYTHING is on the 2. Built in 79 and not dedicated circuits.On those 2 circuits I have counter top MW, toaster, breadmaker, trash compactor, GD, instand hot water dispenser, DW, and refigerator.I have traced out what is on which circuit.But I have never had a problem with either circuits.The only thing that I ahve noticed is that if I use the trash compactor with the MW is running that the you can see the MW light blink when the trash compactor reverses..
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Around here, the quickest way to make the inspectors smile on a kitchen reno is to install a HR for each major appliance. Then let the required small appliance circuits serve as "spares", which generally have a coffee maker and toaster on them.
So typical kitchen reno has 1 or more lighting circuits, DW, GD, refrigerator, microwave plus the required 2 small appliance circuits. 7 HR circuits. 8 if trash compactor or beverage fridge is installed.
Yes, a lot of subpanels get installed as a part of the electrical upgrades associated with a complete kitchen reno.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.