Are the shears going to work for the box-out cuts we’ll need to make for the various blocks (lighting, receptacles, vent terminals, etc.).
If not, what should we use?
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One word - ROTOZIP
I don't have my RZ in front of me but the bit you use is for ceramic til. Be sure to get the thicker diameter bit. RZ has two size bits and the thicker one will be more durable. You will need to get the apropriate collet too.
This makes LOTS of dust. Wear a respirator and if you have a helper, have them operate the wet/dry vac while you are RZ'ing.
Frankie
There he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.
—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
Clipped this from the RotoZip site. Is this the bit? There are 2 like this, but this one is 1/4" dia., and the other is only 1/8".
View Image
Is this going to march right through the Hardiplank? Or is it going to be slow going?
That's the bit!Go with the 1/4" version. The 1/8" version is slow goings but 1/4" is great.A drill and jigsaw also works well too. I like the RZ method when I can lean the HB panel against the wall and use the elctrical box as my template/ jig.For longs cuts like cuts around windows I do use a jigsaw.FrankieThere he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
How about a grinder with an abrasive carbide tile blade? We want to be able to get sharp inside corners.
The 1/4" Rotozip bit will leave 1/8" R. fillets in each corner.
Why do you care about sharp inside corners? This is substrate material.FThere he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
He's talking about Hardiplank, not Hardiboard. Siding, not tile substrate. But I still think an 1/8" bit will leave a sharp enough line for a cut out around a lightblock or something, no?
Since there was mention of dust and wearing a respirator, I would like to hear from anyone using the Fein Multitool for cutouts.
It would produce far less dust because of the oscillating movement of the blade and they do make a diamond coated blade for tile work, which should work well with hardiplank.
I'm asking because my next project will probably involve hardiplank siding.
If you can find the roto zip dust collector it works super with a shop vac. Hearing protection is a must.DougRotoZip 101357 Dust Extractor Attachment
(Amazon currently lists as unavailable).
The Fein Multi-Tool is a great device, but I'm not inclined to subject mine to the kind of conditions often encountered with cutting and hanging siding. Having said that, I suppose it would work fine, though a little slow.
You might try just using one of the carbide grit blades (Lenox #20300-GT300S) in a jig saw (one blade will last through a couple of average houses, in my experience); creates little dust. I do that sometimes, though a diamond blade in a 4 1/2" grinder is my tool of choice. But sometimes, in a small cutout, the jig saw is quick and easy.
Personally, I think a lot of the obsession about the dust is overdone. The plank is usually cut outdoors (we frame a plastic roof over the cutting table in inclement weather) and either a breeze or a fan blowing the dust away along with standing upwind from the cut, or, in the case of a diamond blade, orienting the rotation of the blade away from the operator.....and wearing a dust mask and eye protection; all can keep your lungs pink.
And you can also spring for the Makita plank saw with the blade shroud that feeds right into a vacuum cleaner....I think Mike Smith uses that option.
Thanks, Notchman, for the Lenox blade tip.
And the grinder suggestion also.
The rotozip is probably the best way to do it.
If you don't own one, a jig saw will work, so will a grinder with a masonry or preferably a diamond blade.
I did a few cuts. So few it wasn't worth getting a Rotozip. Standard jigsaw blades don't work at all. Bimetal blades will do it if you only want a few cutouts. Each blade lasted me half a box, in other words, it took two blades to do every cutout.
An abrasive blade for a jigsaw would work much better, but there weren't any in my area.
So if you only have a few cutouts you can get by with a jigsaw, but that would be really slow going to do dozens that way.
You can also just use your diamond blade in your circular saw and cut as much as you can, break it off, and then remove the excess with a utility knife.
The blade won't last long, but if you don't have many to do, it's fast enough and is cheaper than a Rotozip.
I have a Makita 9.6V little saw, with one of their pricey little diamond blades.
The corners trim out with a utility knife.
Joe H
we use the makita also but the carbide blade for all cuts. great for circle tops and arch doorfronts. doesn't turn fast enough to make alot of dust ,just a small pile. <!----><!---->
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