Replies

1. 
   xMikeSmith | Oct 12, 2004 06:59am | #1

   bull... diagonal  adds a minimum of a foot of waste for every cut

   order extra.. protect your stock and return what's left.. better 10 extra pieces than 1 short

   Mike Smith   Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   DanH | Oct 13, 2004 06:03pm | #8

   In my experience diagonal actually reduces waste, so long as the deck is fairly square (not long and narrow) and the decking stock is long enough.

   If your max diagonal is 18 feet, say, then you will use pieces from that length down to essentially zero, in about one foot increments. This means that you can put the "shortie" pieces to good use. And, if you essentially flip (end for end) each piece of stock after cutting, you don't need to cut off a triangle section between pieces. You will end up wasting no more than one foot from each piece of stock, usually less.

1. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 15, 2004 06:27pm | #9

   Dan H,  using those small drops is an artform that I delve into. I apply that some common sense to all materials in all phases of the job. I chuckle to myself when I see a guy fretting about "using a whole sheet" of plywood to cut a 16" crosscut piece out of. To me, that leaves an 80" drop.....a nice starting size on the next run....

   The reason that there aren't any 16" drops laying around is because we ALWAYS  use them first!

   blueIf you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.

2. 
   slykarma | Oct 12, 2004 07:17am | #2

   Local mill I deal with for cedar decking typically prices per lineal foot. They suggest 5% extra for waste on 45 degree decking for boards of uniform length, or 8% if you go with random length (about 30% cheaper for 12' and under, even better again for boards 14' and up). I've found their numbers to be pretty accurate.

   Wally

   Lignum est bonum.
3. 
   ProDek | Oct 12, 2004 08:22am | #3

   10% Random and 15% diagonal for cedar. The 5% rule for diagonal works well for composit decking because there is much less waste.

   "Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   Bob

1. 
   ericbuller | Oct 13, 2004 06:42am | #5

   Thanks to all for the replies. Doesn't look as ominous as I thought. The deck frame is partially built, with joists coming next. With the dimensions I have built to, the longest length end to end is 32 feet. I am assuming that random locations for joints is best, and butt joints vs. 45's are preferred. I am using 2x6 syp (durapine - kiln dried after treatment. )

   Also looking for some good design/reference materials on screened porches, as I want to put one on top of part of this deck. Have built out the footings and beams to handle weight but need some design guidance (ridge beam sizing, open rafter design, etc). Any direction you can point me?

1. 
   ProDek | Oct 13, 2004 08:10am | #7

   Sorry Bull- out of my expertise.........I don't do roofs..........Fell off of one years ago

   Mike Smith has done porches maybe he will chime in.........."Rather be a hammer than a nail"

   Bob

4. 
   blue_eyed_devil | Oct 13, 2004 03:37am | #4

   I don't agree with those high waste figures.

   It's hard to say, and there are many variables but I've found that by being wise with your deck design and properly use your "drops" you will minimize waste.

   To make my point, lets talk about a square deck. Lets say, you design it to be 11' x11' . You automatically will have a fairly high waste ratio. The same goes for diagonal designs. If you wisely figure out how wide a 16' stock will cover, then design for it, you will virtually have no waste. If you hit the number perfectly, you will be dropping only 2%.

   One of the most common mistakes that I see deck builders do is to run their subframe square, then run a diagonal top. That doesn't make sense to me, especially on grade level decks. Running your framing perpindicular to your top is much faster (you can space the joist at 24 oc)  and you don't end up overspanning on the deck top boards.

   Just my two cents.

   blue

   If you want to read a fancy personal signature...  go read someone else's post.
1. 
   slykarma | Oct 13, 2004 06:42am | #6

   True enough Blue. If decking runs 45 to framing, you need to go with 16" o/c joists. Even then the effective span is 23" which is pushing it for 5/4 cedar. Better to go with joists at 45 to deck perimeter, then the waste is limited to a few joists rather than every single deck board.

   I'd trust those waste numbers I mentioned. Most material suppliers tend to overquote quantities if anything, but I've found these guys to be pretty darn accurate. I give them a square foot figure and they spit out a lineal foot number; there is very little left at the end of the project.

   WallyLignum est bonum.