The approach to my front door is a 20’x8′ wooden deck. It is old and needs to be replaced and I am thinking of other options like stone, brick, etc… One of the major reasons not to replace it with another wood deck is that it becomes slippery when wet and when the temperature occasionally drops below freezing.
While I like the look of natural stone, I am concerned that it will be expensive and I was wondering if the stone dust it is set in will get tracked into the house.
Any suggestions for alternatives? Any idea of the cost of natural stone to cover 160sqft?
Thanks, Jeff
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As much as I like stone, I've never been that impressed with it as walkways unless some compentency has been shown in the lay. I have high standards for the definition of compentency. Such as the floors of St. Peter's in the Vatican.
Others may think differently as they are entitled to.
But for a real nice look with better functionality than normal stone, look at tumbled pavers properly and patiently laid. Many different color blends are possible as well as patterns. For walkways, I like a meandering pathway laid herringbone with a double-mitered edging course. Takes time, but you'll love the look forever.
Thanks, but I kind of had my heart set on something a bit more natural...or at least informal...looking.
I was scoping the project out a bit more today and I realized I also had a drainage issue to solve. There is a gutter downspout that will drain across walkway if I build it at the desired elevation. I would have to bury it too deep and run it out too far in order to get a good pitch to it. And I just can't think of where I could move the downspout to get it out of the way...
Jeff
I like the idea of the pavers also. But you don't have to use single size. You can get them in a multiple modular style. I don't know the size, but they are something like 2x2, 2x4, and 4x4. You put them down in a random patter.
Also you can get them with a blended color, where there is a range of different shades on the pavers.
a double-mitered edging course What's that?Do it right, or do it twice.
The direction of a meandering walkway simply flows and accordingly has curves. When coupled with a herringbone pattern, it's outside (or retaining) course of pavers is where the curve's effect is noticed. The effect is seen by the opening or closing of the gap between these edging pavers.
When I refer to it as "double-mitered," each gap between these pavers is eliminated by mitering both sides of the paver. For instance, if there is a 1/2" gap formed between two pavers by curving the pathway, that gap is eliminated by removing 1/4" from each opposite side.
Perhaps my terminolgy is amiss, but this is quite the different technique from normal installations where no attempt is made to miter these edging courses. Yes, the additional time and cost may be prohibitive to many, but to me, the difference in appearance makes the pattern more elegant as opposed to casual.
Here's a couple shots of walkways I've done.
Flagstone with big pieces goes down quick and looks good, fill in with smaller pieces. This was from 20+ years ago, note the 1977 GMC half ton, ah yes I remember it well.
The brick walk is made of pavers it shows a 90 degree corner starting with running bond, switching to herringbone, then back to running bond. It takes a corner real well.
Rod
Edited 4/6/2003 11:16:44 AM ET by Rod
Hi:
I saw the jpegs of your walks... very impressive.
I have a question. When putting flagstone over an older brick set in concrete patio what id the minimum thickness of cement you would use to adhere the flagstone. The flagstone varies from 3/4 to 1/1/2 inches in thickness.
Thank You
Hi Johnclay,
Wow, your post made me think a bit. How did you see any of my walkways? Pictures are back from 2003!
Anyway,I'd be comfortable with at the least a 1/2" mortar under the stones. Of course with the irregular dimensions of the stones, some are going to have more mortar under them than others. That's ok, (except I'd stay away from anything under 1" thick, they're just too fragile), but more important, I think, would be that you use a bonding agent between the mortar and the old brick patio. You pretty much just slop/paint it on before you spread new mortar.
I also use an acrylic latex additive in the mortar itself. I dump a good coffee cup full of it into a 5 gallon bucket and use that to mix the mortar. It helps it bond better, and increases the workability of the mortar. It also adds to the length of time that the mortar can be worked.
Have fun and post some pics for us!
Rod