disassembling cast iron drain pipe
thehistorydude
| Posted in General Discussion on
After every time I disassemble cast iron drain pipe when remodeling/renovating I swear I’ll find out if there’s a better way. And since I just finished wrassling out a section closet bend plus a couple of feet to the main stack) figured better late than never!
My usual method is to crack out the pieces I won’t be reusing with a resounding blow from a three-pounder. When I get to the point where I’ll be adding new pipe, I use a variety of drills, chisels, and picks to work out the lead and okum, then slide out the last piece. I’ve tried melting out the lead but it takes way too long, at least with Mapp gas or propane.
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
DGW
Replies
I used my makita disk grinder to cut out the piece and then used a fernco coupler (rubber with the stainless steel band and clamps) to take off with abs.
Have a good day
Cliffy
Sometimes I use a sawzall- seems to work ok. I don't know any better way to get the last ring of CI and oakum out of the hub, though- I use a cold chisel and hammer, an adjustable wrench, and various other tools for that.
zak
"so it goes"
Rent a cast iron "snapper" and cut back at some convient point and then use a fernco coupling.
It only takes a couple of minutes.
Agree with you and plumbbill on the ratchet cutter.
Be careful using Fernco fittings with CI if it is inspected. I believe Michelin bands are approved for CI joints in most applications, but Fernco are only approved for specific applications. Michelin bands are similar to Fernco but have a rib inside at the center line, and have a stainless steel sleeve with the clamps on it on the outside. The ones we use are stamped for UPC, BOCA, and ASTM 3564 on the fittings.
They are more difficult to install than Ferncos because you have to roll the rubber sleeve back on itself in some instances to join two existing pieces of pipe back together, but the outside full metal sleeve gives the joint much better support than a Fernco fitting. This is particularly important in horizontal runs and transitions where supporting the weight of the CI pipe can cause Fernco fittings to sag and/or split over a period of time.
I believe the one we use are made by Mission.
Dave
True in most jurisdictions that you have to use a full shielded coupling inside the building line, & it's ok for a non shielded one outside the building line.
But Fernco¯ is a brand just like mission¯ & make different styles of couplings.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
This question pertains to the local code. Some areas require Fernco coups. to have s shear ring installed, also the codes that I work with require support on both side of the joint, that way there will be no sagging. This is information only. Luck.
When taking a pipe out of a hubbed fitting that I'm going to re-use the hub, then I usually will use a cold chisel inline with the pipe it will break without breaking the hub.
But like the other Bill said a ratchet cutter on the pipe is usually my weapon of choice.
Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
"My usual method is to crack out the pieces I won't be reusing with a resounding blow from a three-pounder. "
Opposing hammers works really well. Sounds funny, but two 3lb hammers (one in each hand) working against each other makes short work of it. One essentially backs up the blow of the other. Particulary useful when the pipe has little suport.
"When I get to the point where I'll be adding new pipe, I use a variety of drills, chisels, and picks to work out the lead and okum, then slide out the last piece."
If you really must save the pipe within the fitting (cannot just cut it flush), I find that a grinder with a cutting wheel is the best tool. Simply cut 4 deep scores through the shoulder of the fitting (not too deep), then it will chisel off easily.
I'm not sure why I never thought to use my angle grinder with a cutting wheel. I seem to grab it every other time I'm faced with a piece of metal :)
From my old days as a wrench turner another trick that concentrates hammer blows real well is to place the head of one hammer on what you want to hit, then hit that hammer with a bigger one. Makes short work of stuck rotors and brake drums. Still, I think I'll pick up the grinder next time!
Thanks guys,
DGW