I wish to move my washer and dryer to the basement of my home with a septic system. There are currently no plumbing fixtures in the basement. The main drain leaves the basment at about five feeet from the floor. The new washer locations closest drain pipe is above it at the basement ceiling. I want to elevate the machines on 24″ platforms.
Can this be done? Will I need a pump? Can I tap directly into the drain pipe or do I need a standpipe? I dont want to have the waste from other fixtures going into the basement.
Replies
Yes, you need the standpipe.
And you need to check the manufactures instructions. They will indicate how hight it can pump.
They will usually go "several" feet.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Thank you Mr. Hartmann,
My question to you, and I am sure you are correct, is WHY do I need a Standpipe as opposed to just hooking up to a drain pipe? Would this chance water backflowing into the washing machine? Is it to allow the water to have a way to vent? Pony, thanks for elaborating on the possible ramifications of the standpipe being the lowest point in the system. That would be quite a mess. I am thinking that the easiest way may be to put a slop sink next to the washer and allow the water to drain into the sink. The sink drain could have a pump attached to it to pump it up to a standpipe on the first floor. Should work... I hope. Thanks for your help.
"I am thinking that the easiest way may be to put a slop sink next to the washer and allow the water to drain into the sink. The sink drain could have a pump attached to it to pump it up to a standpipe on the first floor. Should work... I hope."That is what I did is similar circumtances, but I had less head room. I think only ft below the joist.The only complication is that you need to connect to the plumbing vent. An air admittance valve (studor) won't work in this case."WHY do I need a Standpipe as opposed to just hooking up to a drain pipe?"The water that comes out of washer is very fast. I think that the standpipe acts as a small resivor to control the surge.
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William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
You need the standpipe to prevent siphoning.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
That is true. But for that to happen all you need is it to be high enough to keep the end of the pipe about 1" above the weir level of the trap.I am guessing about 6".But if you did that you would probably have 1/3 of the water splashing out the top..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Yep, you need enough standpipe height to prevent back-splash. Less than would be needed for a clothes washer.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
Although the title is for Dishwasher the thread is about clothes washer..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
OK, then you need a minimum of about 18" -- over 24" preferred. Not sure what code would be.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
The standpipe also acts as a vaccum break so that the washer hose cannot siphon waste water back in to the washer after its pump shuts off (I think)
If you install a sewage ejector pump or sump pump you use a check valve for the same reason. If the pump is installed in a closed "crock" then the crock must be vented.
If a stanpipe is installed in the main house drain line, then a separate vent should not be necessary as the house vent services the trap at the bottom of the standpipe.
I am not a plumber,but this is what I have seen done. The only advantage to adding a sink and pump is that you gain the use of a sink, If a sink is not important to you, then a standpipe and trap installed in the main drain would probably be easier. I have also seen a standpipe/trap constructed out of 1 1/2" or 2" pvc exit the foundation wall then tie in to the main drain outside the foundation wall.
Edited 2/1/2009 9:42 am ET by LIVEONSAWDUST
Edited 2/1/2009 9:54 am ET by LIVEONSAWDUST
My personal home is almost the exact same stuation. where the main drain exits the foundation you should have a cleanout. Use a Y at that location to add a standpipe with trap. If you elevate the machines 24" as you state, your regular washer drain hose should reach. In my situation the machine sits on the floor and I had to extend the washer drain hose, it has always pumped out fine.
Check the install instructions (probably online if you don't have them) to see how much elevation there can be in the line. Usually you can stretch the number a little.
If too much you can buy a pump (don't use a condensate pump, use a pump designed for a sink) to lift the drain water. Would run $100-200, I'm guessing.
your new standpipe will become the new lowest point in your waste system should you ever have a clog in your main drain...
which means if everyone is upstairs shower'n and flush'n it all could end up in the basement and you'd never know it until you went down to do laundry...
might be worth one of those cheap alarms that lets you know something is wet on the basement floor...
just say'n....
P:)
That's why the mother-in-law's apartment is in the basement.
The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith