After several estimates I have decided to do the drywall for the home we’re building. I will be alone (perhaps can get a few hours help for some sticky spots if they come up). I have somewhere around 200 sheets to hang with 8 footers and 12 footers. I assume I can’t handle anything bigger. I plan to butt panels between studs/joists to get better joints. The only way I’ve done it in the past is with slightly recessed nailers. Is there a system to speed this up and still get that kind of result? Right now I have what I need for finishing tools, but am quite lacking when it comes to hanging sheetrock. I have a utility knife and cordless drills, that’s it. I plan on a 4′ tee square, but what else will make the job of cutting, moving sheets, hanging etc. be quicker and less painful. I will be buying a panel lift; amazon has some that come in under $200 with shipping, and that won’t break the bank. Are there models I should stay away from? What about carrying sheets? I have lots of angles, with a stick framed cape and intersecting wings, dormers etc. Any taping products to help get all those wall-sloped ceiling-flat ceiling joints nice and straight? Thanks for any advice. Labor estimates all came in around 9k, so I can spend a few dollars on the accessories that will save my back and prevent frustration. Thanks.
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I think floating butt joints are a good idea. I'm not sure what you mean by a recessed nailer, but you don't need a nailer per se. Just back up the joint with a piece of plywood. If you really want to keep it flat, take a look at this: http://butthanger.com/butthanger.html. It would be pretty easy to make your own, but it may take a little experimentation to figure out the dimensions.
For inside corners other than 90°, I like to use Straightflex. The thinner version seems easier to work with and is more than strong enough.
For outlets/fixtures, etc., consider a router/laminate trimmer/roto-zip with a drywall bit. This takes a little bit of practice to get used to, but once you get good at it, it makes the nicest drywall fit.
I think floating butt joints are a good idea. I'm not sure what you mean by a recessed nailer, but you don't need a nailer per se. Just back up the joint with a piece of plywood. If you really want to keep it flat, take a look at this: http://butthanger.com/butthanger.html. It would be pretty easy to make your own, but it may take a little experimentation to figure out the dimensions.
For inside corners other than 90°, I like to use Straightflex. The thinner version seems easier to work with and is more than strong enough.
For outlets/fixtures, etc., consider a router/laminate trimmer/roto-zip with a drywall bit. This takes a little bit of practice to get used to, but once you get good at it, it makes the nicest drywall fit
Thanks for the link. The drywall splice looks like it will save a lot of time. I used 2x4 nailers between the josts/studs at a butt joint and left them 1/8" back from the surface. This sucked the butt joint in slightly, allowing for a flatter tape job. The butthanger looks like it will do a similar job. I do have a dremal with the spiral bits which I have used in the past; yes, it took a bit of practice on my can lights so as not to stray.
I read something (I think in FH years ago) where a guy used 1/8" shims along the edges of a wider piece of plywood to pull the edges back between ceiling joists. I think it was something like a 8-10" wide piece of plywood with a 1" strip of 1/8" plywood running along either side. The drywall joint ran down the center, with screws fastening it to the plywood beside the shims. Sort of a DIY version of the butthanger, I believe.
Haven't had occasion to try it myself yet, and can't remember where I saw it any longer, but it made sense to me and the ceiling was very flat in pictures.
I've tried this a few times. Used 1/8 mdf on the edges, the taper was skeptical but it worked great.
Have a good day
Cliffy
Hey-
maybe we'll finally have someone who can do a review of that thing
Hey-
maybe we'll finally have someone who can do a review of that thing
Not I. After looking a bit the Rock Splicer seems to be more to my liking than the butthanger. I intend to give them a try anyway. At $3 somthing each they are worth it over my recessed 2x4s or trying to fabricate something with plywood and shims. A box of 20 should do the whole job.
What helps with the cutting and layout? An adjustable angle drywall square looks like the ticket for my valleys etc. Scribe and snap with a utility knife, or is there something out there that's worth a few dollars? Is something like the Troll worth $30 for rolling sheets around? Is there something this cheap with casters or other means of 2-D motion?
BTW, here is the house in question.
the butt taper is kind of a running joke between Don and me. Not that the tool is a joke; I'll probably end up with one at some point.
Don's had one for a year, and has yet to use it. He keeps saying he wants me to borrow it, and be the one to try it out. I want him to be the first. We're still trying to work that out. LOL
Sheetrock isn't a difficult trade to master, but it can be hard on the body. Especially trying to carry those 12' sheets around. One of the best things you could do is find someone to be a helper, even if its just for the ceilings.
>>>What helps with the cuttingA fixed blade knife (get a real drywall knife) and LOTS of sharp blades. Get the 100 pack and don't be cheap on changing blades.And there are times when a chalk line is helpful.Ditto the small handheld surform tool.
Good call on the fixed blade knife; I hadn't thought of that. I do know that the blade likes to jump out of my utility knife when slicing sheetrock.
I'll be back to ask for more finishing shortcuts later. Right know my concern is getting the right gear for hanging. Using stilts to screw off the sheets is a great idea. Thanks!
My sheetrock was delivered Tuesday afternoon, and I took advantage of my dad being in town to get started on the big peices. We hung 14 16 footers, 8 14 footers and 10 12 footers. I'll be on my own for the rest, all 12s and 8s. Man am I sore this morning! The $69 drywall lift is as ugly and ill conceived as one could imagine...man do I love that thing! We only hung 3 sheets without it, over an open stair and that made me appreciate it all the more. It may not be pro-quality, but it sure does the job. I bought a drywall screw gun which was definately worth it. Once it was dialed in right, it got the job done much faster than battery guns with drywall bits. The fixed blade knife is a winner. I also got a rock ripper (square with holes) which means I haven't got out the chalkline yet. I got a little toe kicker to lift the bottom sheet off the floor, which works better than my homemade jobber did. Over all it is going very well. My teeth feel funny from chewing too much sheetrock dust (rotozip and can lights). It will be tricky to get the 12 footers onto the lift by myself, I plan to use a 6" step to get me up there. I wish the lift was limeted to 8' (my max ceiling) instead of 11' which would may the whole rig a bit shorter. Thanks for the many tips. I'll be taping in no time.
As far as the butt joint we use buttboard drywall backer from tim-tex. Also look at their corners for your celling thay work great. Their web site is http://www.trim-tex.com
Edited 4/3/2008 9:29 am ET by mgard38
I have already ordered rock splicers...don't have them yet, so just left the ends hanging for now.
Hi tuolume7,
I'm doing the same thing as you are. Right now I'm at the finishing stage.
When you get there, one thing i highly recommend is the use of a corner roller to apply compound to the inside corners. you can get these at a paint or drywall supply house.
And after you apply the compound and the tape on the inside corners you got to get one of these-------------------------------------------->http://eastcoastdrywall.com/product_info.php?cPath=24&products_id=44&osCsid=baacdfb91a46add10a4a8d3bb04f518a
for rolling out the corner tape....this thing works GREAT----GET IT .... I promise ... you will thank me later...
...paul...
Use a dust mask when using your Roto zip. 12 footers solo? Better thee than me.
Good luck."I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I'm glad you got the screw gun. :-D
Taping in no time..you'll need a week off to regroup!
I'm only working at the house 3 days each week, so I get plenty of time to regroup :)
I hung another 18 12 footers and some small peices today and did a little taping for relief. They went onto the lift a lot easier than expected for solo. It seems I'm spending most of the time screwing. Any tips for getting screws onto the gun quicker? My 6yo daughter was helping today, and I couldn't have done some things without her...holding cutoffs so the paper doesn't tear, handing me the drill, or putting a prop in place. Maybe tomorrow I should have my twins line up screws on a horse with all the heads going one directon to speed things along! Kids sure love to help.
"Any tips for getting screws onto the gun quicker?"
Are you using a proper DW screwgun? If so, just load up a nail pouch with screws, lock the gun "ON", put a screw in and drive it with your right hand while grabbing the next screw with your left. Repeat. Leave the gun running the whole time.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Ya, I've been leaving the gun going...my left hand can only grab a new screw so fast. I was thinking of having some of my little helpers line a bunch up on a sawhorse. We'll see how that goes tomorrow.
I'd say it just takes practice. . . Spent some time just observing a 6' 6" Russian dude firing screws like machine-gun bursts. Brrrrip! Brrrrip! Brrrrip!
Can't say it's any more than practice.
Practice for sure! I can always have nails ready faster than I can nail off sheathing or siding or shingles or whatever...those short little threaded buggers just seem to stick together. Yep, more practice needed.
The screws are definately coming into hand quicker. I spent about 3 hours on the stilts yesterday doing all the ceiling joints. I definately found some leg muscles previously unknown to me. My wrist is also a bit sore from the knife. I find swapping a few fingers out as blade support helps. I'm sure I just need to get a bit more time in. I used ultraflex on the 135 degree corners. That stuff is very easy to work with and makes a very straight joint. I'm a bit tempted to use this on all inside corners, but the cost would be far too high. Working alone a few days a week means no time lost to cut in one side at a time anyway. I am also using the no coat 90s for my outside corners in lieu of metal. They seem pretty durable and certainly make a neater corner. I don't have many of those anyway. I've been thinning down the mud a bit for the first coat which seems to help the tape bed in better. Is this standard procedure? It's too late for half of the house, but I can do the other half "right". Things look pretty good so far though.
I usually thin the mud a bit for the first 2 coats. Then, I get a clean bucket of mud and thin it just a bit more for the 3rd coat.
I used to just thin whatever was left in the "old" bucket for the final coat, but I've learned that it don't pay to try to save $3 just to be plagued by nits dragging in the mud making a mess of my joints! I've become VERY particular about having pristine mud for the final coat.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Just started on a bathroom alone. Being a REAL novice at this, I read as many notes for all you members as I could. The helpful hints were great. I like the idea of thinning the mud a bit. I have utmost respect for all you guys that do this full time. Wow. You earn every penny.
It's the same concept as nailing off sheathing with a HAMMER.
You keep a constant source of srews in your left hand. Quantity will vary depending upon dexterity among other things.
As you are running one screw in, you get the next one ready in your fingers. You feel them for proper orientation.
Put it on the gun and go.
Repeat.
We can do more than one thing at a time!
[email protected]
where'd you find this lift?
The $69 drywall lift is as ugly and ill conceived as one could imagine...man do I love that thing!
Amazon....$69 is misleading...I think it actually came in at $59 when I bought it, but the shiping was $90, so total was around $150.
I got my second batch of sheetrock yesterday and it's USG brand, which is different than the first delivery. This stuff is noticeably stiffer and the paper is stronger, but it definately irritates the lungs and eyes when cutting. Funny thing is that it was cheaper...I found out that the supplier was out of the 14s I needed and picked up my load from another local yard. Silly, I have an account there too and could have ordered direct without him taking a loss to fill my order.
i just saw this thread.
for making the long cuts:
measure the width of the strip you need and mark it with a pencil at one end. hold the point of your knife at this mark, with the hook of your tape held against the knife with your thumb, as close to the blade as your style of knife allows (i use an olfa with the snap off blades, but i get the blades at the dollar store, ten for a buck). extend the tape to the left hand side, holding the tongue between your thumb and first finger. rest against the edge of the sheet. so now you've got your knife in one hand and the tape in the other, with the tape stretched tight in between. move both hand at the same time down the sheet, using the edge as a guide, scoring the drywall.
hope that made sense. with a bit of practice, you can make long, straight cuts in drywall really fast.
Yeah, I've been doing it that way for a while. The advantage is I could even do slight tapers for out of square situations with fair accuracy. The disadvantage is I could never do a real score with the tape in the thumb, and this was just a marking technique. With the rock ripper I found I can score with that first pass and don't need a second to make the break.
The lift is especially nice for the sloped ceilings. Even with a helper this is an awkward situation. With overhead, at least you can jamb something up to hold the sheet (like your head). With a lift, slopes are easy solo. I even did a few 14' sheets. It would have been impossible with my first batch of sheetrock, as they were so flexible. With the new stuff they are stiff enough to manhandle solo. Still a bit awkward to get up the stairs!
Progress report?
Tuolumne,I had been eyeballing that lift too. I think it is the "platnium" right?Have you had any problems with it so far? The price is certainly right for me (I may only hang 1 or 2 ceilings a year) but I just don't want something that falls apart every time it's go-time. I read a bunch of reviews elsewhere that claim it to not be of much quality but will get the job done. Some claims of the cable falling off the pully or something. Also a few others of horrible shipping package and some of missing parts. What has been your experience.Would you vouch for this lift?gk
OK, Progress,
Yes, I would buy this lift again. I have had no problems at all; no cable jumps as others have mentioned. I lubricated everything about midway through. That thing made a job that would have been impossible into something enjoyable.
I have the whole house hung...I found that doing the various closest took about as long as the rest of the house! In total I used (16) 16' sheets, (36) 14' sheets, (90) 12' sheets and (67) 8' sheets for a starting total of 9504 square feet. It didn't do too bad with waste, using a 14' for two 7' peices instead of cutting 12" off and 8' etc. I have a total of 19 butt joints that were unavoidable based on walls or ceilings > 16' and I used "rock splicer" for these. They worked extremely well and create a nice recess for taping. I took one small utility trailer of scrap to the dump. Including two days of help from my dad the hanging took about 80 man hours.
I just finished getting the first coat of mud on everything. I used no-coat ultra flex for the 135 degree corners (500' all told) and no-coat outside corners. These are all bedded in mud and I really like the way they installed. They also seem very durable, and I'll never have to worry about paint chipping off a metal corner. Counting 250' rolls, outside corners and ultraflex I've taped nearly 4000' of joints! I never would have guessed there were that many joints in a house. I am very pleased with the way this coat turned out. I've been using proform thinned just a bit which seems to behave a bit nicer than USG in my limited experience. My 5 and 6 year olds did the lower screws, and I didn't count their time, but I've spent about 32 hours on the taping so far to do that first coat. I bought a rolling 2'x5' scaffold (1000 lb rated) from TSC for $60...I thought it was on sale for $90 which was bargain enough, then it rang in for that! That has been great for following me around on stilts, and I can think of a bunch of other uses in the future. I am glad I don't go up to the house every day, as it is I seem to have a mild case of tapers' elbow, tapers' neck, tapers' wrist, tapers' shoulder......Do things get faster or slower from here? So far my hourly rate is still looking pretty good.
Up until now, I've only used my 6" knife and hawk for application, and a 10" knife to clean up with. What is the best approach from here. I have a 16" crowned trowel for the field joints, and a 12" knife for corners. What is the best way to approach this...apply mud with 6" and then hit it with the trowel/12" knife to feather, or apply/finish in one pass. I've only done the first method before.
You're thinking of the Butt Taper: http://www.butttaper.com/home.htm. I wanted him to take a look at the Butt Hanger.
I didn't mention the Butt Taper because I haven't used it yet and I don't want to recommend something that I don't have experience with.
But I'm glad your brought it up because he should take a look at it anyway.
I should probably butt out when I don't have my info correct
What are ya doing today? You trying to go out in this snow?
I've got a few short visits to make, but no real work. Today, by a stoke of luck, was one of the "holes" that I leave in my schedule. I leave these holes in case one of my regulars needs something right away or to tie up loose ends. This particular hole never got fully filled. I was hoping the snow would slow down before I head out. Otherwise, I'll be home most of the day.
By the way, one of my regulars is going to remodel their kitchen when the weather gets warmer. If I wanted the job, I would be almost guaranteed of getting it, but it's too much work for 1 person. The thought of collaborating with you crossed my mind. There are several ways this "collaboration" could happen. Think about it a bit and let me know.
I should also tell you that I've got a call in to another contractor that I met who specializes in kitchen remodels, but the last time I talked to him, he was busy enough that he wasn't interested in any leads from me.
I've collaborated with other contractors before. I'm willing to do it with you. It's worked out well for me in the past with jobs that 1 guy can't handle.
Kitchens are usually fun projects.
We can discuss it at our lunch.
If I were in your position I would seriously consider looking at Better than ever drywall tools. Saves quite a bit of time over using conventional hand tools.
If you don't want to invest in a drywall screw gun get some of the bits linked here:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/accessory_category_detail.asp?categoryID=278
the cause the bit to cam out of teh screw when the screw gets to the proper depth, (just below the surface without punching the paper)
If you don't want to invest in a drywall screw gun get some of the bits linked here:
http://www.dewalt.com/us/products/accessory_category_detail.asp?categoryID=278
the cause the bit to cam out of teh screw when the screw gets to the proper depth, (just below the surface without punching the paper)
TFB (Bill)
Got em! I like those much better than the version with bearings. My Makita 18V Lion is nice and light and no cords to drag around, so I planned to stick with that. Maybe I'm better prepared than I thought! I did do a 400 sf room with a closet and the garage of our previous home, but that was with volunteer helpers. Man, those 12' 5/8 sheets on the ceiling were rough. Keep the good tips coming!
this is one job that really requires the Piffen Screw
.
my spelling is not bad, my keyboard is covered with dirt and I cant see the keys.
For screwing on the cheap....
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As for the drywall lift, the imports under $200 work, but raise & lower the lift slow, the cables tend to jump the wheels EZ if you work them fast. Then you spend an hour with down time.
Good luck with the job & make sure you have help with the upper sheets.
A lifter or "kicker" as they are called out here.
very handy for one man show and 8' ceilings.
Kick the nose under the sheet , rock your foot back and it lifts the sheet off the floor.
A lifter or "kicker" as they are called out here.
very handy for one man show and 8' ceilings.
Kick the nose under the sheet , rock your foot back and it lifts the sheet off the floor.
I saw those...I've used a flat bar and it was always awkward. I think I'll look around for one of those. Are you suggesting that I run the sheets vertical? Thats a lot of taping, but no butt joints and a lot easier to install by myself. I was planning to do two horizontal sheets for all of the 8' areas.
I use it for the bottom sheets of the two on the wall, lifts that sheet up snug against the top sheet that has been lifted snug against the ceiling. It does make life easier as does a drywall saw (actually two a big one looks like a hand saw with over sized teeth , and the smaller keyhole like saw). Sureform for cleaning ragged edges, Drywall circle compass with cutting wheel for some jobs, and ripping square. That square has eye shaped holes in it that you fit the tip of you knife blade into and use to rip pieces to size. Eyes are every 1/16 apart up to 24 1/2 " IIRC Wall Board brand I think.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I use it for the bottom sheets of the two on the wall, lifts that sheet up snug against the top sheet that has been lifted snug against the ceiling.
Got it...that was the plan.
It does make life easier as does a drywall saw (actually two a big one looks like a hand saw with over sized teeth , and the smaller keyhole like saw).
I've never seen one of those, where would it be used? I imagine for larger cutouts where snapping is not possible?? Does this speed up removal at a door opening? I've always toiled along with a keyhole type drywall saw.
Sureform for cleaning ragged edges,
Do you have a link for this? I shave with a utility knife which is not fun. I have a few open valleys where I am sure some shaving will be needful. The house is 12 pitch and built plumb/level/square in theory....I'll get to test drive that angle-flex stuff in those spots.
Drywall circle compass with cutting wheel for some jobs,
No circles...
and ripping square. That square has eye shaped holes in it that you fit the tip of you knife blade into and use to rip pieces to size. Eyes are every 1/16 apart up to 24 1/2 " IIRC
Wall Board brand I think.
I saw these...I assume this replaces the chalk line and wiggly cut? Are the ripper dookickeys with wheels worth anything?
Square for ripping.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000302SW?ie=UTF8&redirect=true&SubscriptionId=1NP56Y8QKPN1AZERGY02 Sureform http://www.stanleytools.com/default.asp?CATEGORY=SURFORM+TOOLS+AND+BLADES&TYPE=PRODUCT&PARTNUMBER=21-399&SDesc=6%26%2334%3B+Surform%26%23174%3B+Pocket+Plane I have never used the rippers with wheels but have seen them. I would not buy an adjustable square, to time consuming to reset . A simple good straight edge to mark , cut by hand and rasp or sure form the edge to clean it.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Thanks for the links. I agree that a tape measure and a 6' straight edge is probaly faster and more accurate that the angle square.
Here is an example of the type of open valleys and ceiling profile I am dealing with. I am sure this is why the labor estimates came up a lot higher than a typical colonial with 8' ceilings.
I recently drywalled my 2 story house. I bought a Senco Duraspin 14.4v screw gun. A real time saver. No fumbling for a screw while holding up a 12' sheet of drywall. When you're done with it, sell it on ebay.-h
Another take.
I suck at drywall finish. When we did own house 85% of wall are paneled over firecode rock with just firefill for joints.
ceilings are mostly stained 2x6 decking.
The large handsaw is probably available from a commercial drywall supplier . But if you have a rotozip then the big saw can (depending on your hanging style) be redundant.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Go to work and pay an expert.
All alone I say you are looking at a good 6 weeks of work and your body is going to be real tired at the end.
Sorry to lay it out that way, but I truly believe that is a sensible thing to consider.
Come back when you are done and let us know how it went.
Eric
[email protected]
I'll let you know how it went! I am currently unemployed, so 6 weeks = 240 hours = $40 per hour based on the quotes I've received. That seems like a pretty good day job, and I'll have the satisfaction of having done everything in this house myself! I am trying to get a structural engineering business off the ground, but right now saving money pays better than trying to earn it. That pay is not taxed either.
Edited 2/21/2008 10:07 pm ET by tuolumne7
$40 an hour, go for it. You'll have Popeye muscles by then!
Best wishes.[email protected]
Here's one I ordered. The shipping cost for 121lbs seemed high, but when I checked around, it matched or was better than those.
I figured I can resell it for half the cost, at least, and yet I can take my time using it without worrying about a daily rate...
Bill
http://www.amazon.com/Platinum-Tool-Professional-Drywall-Panel/dp/B000ICB824/ref=pd_rhf_p_t_1
I just ordered the same one from the same place. Did you get yours yet & if so how is it? I had been looking for about 4 months for a used one, on ebay, craigslist, local penny pincher, etc but no success. Only ones listed were the $400 ones and there were only about 4 of those in all that time. Seems once somebody gets one they keep it. I started looking knowing that I would be doing some ceiling work and like you wanted to take my time and not worry about daily rental rates. Also thought about using it to hang some uppers in a kitchen coming up. I can gang two or three together on the floor and lift them together to hang them like I saw in a mag last fall. Not sure yet if that will work with this lift.
Buy a damn screw gun. By the time you're done, you'll be amazing at it.
I just finished driving a few pounds of screws with my 18v Makita with a dimpler bit. It works, I guess, but that $100 DeWalt at Rona was calling my name, bigtime.
God I'm cheap.
Anyway - YMMV, but my dimpler bit isn't exactly the cat's azz. It never overdrives, but it underdrives too many just by a hair. A screwgun is adjustable so you can play with it until it works for you.
Also: did anyone mention drywall rasp???
But if you're too cheap for the screw gun, you definitely need a router for your outlets. Otherwise, I dunno man.
Edited 2/21/2008 10:31 pm ET by Biff_Loman
Edited 2/21/2008 10:32 pm ET by Biff_Loman
Edited 2/21/2008 10:32 pm ET by Biff_Loman
this is going to make a man out of ya by the time your done!
first hang 12'x1/2" sheetrock on the ceiling,it has to be high strength also known as ceiling board,won't sag and is a lot ligghter than 5/8.
tools you need as a amatuer: knife,t square,don't worry about a angle type,you just measure and straight edge,8' straight edge,rotozip,drywall jack,sheetrock rasp,lots of bits and screwgun,sheetrock handsaw,lots of putty knives,banjo taper,i use a magic trowel on the last coat because i don't know what i'm doing, lots of mud.lots more but that will get your first 5 sheets hung.
biggest mistake i used to make was,putting small pcs. up,what a way to save 2.00 and spend 2 hours taping and finishing.
i'm thinking you must have about 7000sf of rock to hang,working by your self i think 240 hours is on the low side,unless you are doing a knockdown,but a level 4finish by myself i could easily see 2 months.that 9k won't all be labor,you will be surprised by what you spend in finish materials.
i know you don't want to spend the money,but if you do a half azz job that is what the whole house will look like half az. just know you have to be able to make it nice or you will bring the whole house down. i'd keep shopping at least for a finisher,around here new rock hung and finished is a 1.00 a foot.larry
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
Thanks...9K + was labor only, so my materials are covered. I am fairly confident with my finishing skills. Nobody has mentioned stilts, and that is one finishing tool I don't have and am wondering about. I assume it will kick productivity up a lot from hopping on and off sawhorses. What does a banjo taper do for you? Is this for flat seams only? I have tons of corners that are 135 degrees.
Good call. Stilts, a definite yes. They look scarier than the are. Get a set of horses and a 4ft square piece of plywood on top. Put your mud and every thing else you are using up there. I see guys using the stilts for screwing off the ceilings as well.
Another thought....for laying the tape; use mud slightly thinned and a roller made for the purpose. You "can" roll on the mud and run the tape out pretty fast. There is also a roller for the corners. Trick is getting the mud the right consistency and laying enough on. You don't want ghosts under the tape.
Second coat with setting type compound and corner beads as well. If you time it right you can carve of the snots, boogies and other high spots while the mud is still plastic but no longer putty.
You really need a helper. A retired finisher would be awesome, even if he only works half days.[email protected]
I haven't read all the posts. I'm sure there's a lot of excellent specific advice on this topic.
I spent many days doing production drywall on wood framing in houses and apartments (even more commercial work on metal studs). It's damned hard work but the skills and techniques required can be learned fairly easily, by someone who is observant and is willing to ask basic questions.
On the other hand, it's very difficult to read about hanging rock and then do it like the pros...just isn't that kind of material or environment.
It's monkey-see, monkey-do...much easier to grasp when it's happening right there in front of you.
So I'm suggesting that you find a drywall contractor or crew who will let you watch and ask questions, maybe even pay for a day of tutoring. If you can absorb what you see, then you'll have a basis for understanding the great advice which other pro drywall guys are giving you here. And you'll be much more confident about working with drywall.
Edited 2/23/2008 5:02 am by Hudson Valley Carpenter