I’m considering soapstone counters for my new kitchen. I’ve worked with it before years ago repairing antique wood stoves and liked how it worked. I’ve also fabricated and installed Corian countertops. Is it a big deal or is it as easy as it sounds?
Also has anyone dealt with M. Teixera from Garfield, New Jersey?
Thanks
Roy
Replies
With your experience I don't think you'd have any problem at all.
I get my stone through http://www.vermontsoapstone.com/
just curious... besides aesthetics, what about it makes for a good countertop? How is it price wise?
Go to the site that belongs to the M. Texiera that the poster is asking about ...
http://www.soapstones.com
... to read all about why it's such a great material ... and cheap.
And to the original poster, no, I haven't worked with him, but I have plans to in a couple of months. If you beat me to it, I'd love to hear how it goes for you.
It's IMPERVIOUS to heat--if it didn't weigh so much NASA would use it for space shuttle heat shielding.
How do you attach soapstone? Gravity!
It's naturally bacterioseptic.
Made to EXACT specifications and about 1 3/16" thick it's about 1/2 the price of PLAIN solid surface.
Rupert,
I've visited his shop/office in Garfield NJ about 6 months ago. I too was curious about the DIY soapstone. The gentleman I spoke with was helpful and if I remember it correctly, his prices ween't that bad. They get all their soapstone from Brazil.
My kitchen project is still ongoing so I have'nt made any final decisions on the countertops to date. Please post here on what you end up doing.
Good Luck,
Tim
Roy,
I just finished up two bathroom remodels using soapstone counters. In the master bath we mounted an undermount Kohler sink. In the guest bath we fabricated a soapstone sink. This was all in anticipation of using soapstone for a kitchen remodel that we have not started.
It is heavy. I found it locally (southern California) and had the 8'x 6'x 1 1/8" slab sliced into manageable pieces so I could take it home. A 2'x6' section still weighs several hundred pounds, so be prepared to get help. We paid $19/sq ft. In our area granite runs $12/sq ft.
Cutting soapstone is as the web sites state. For end cuts, I used a 7" diamond blade on a skill saw. For the sink cutout, I found that a good carbide router bit works well. Faucet holes were cut with a bi-metal hole saw. When you are finished you can remove scratches with an orbital sander. Wet sanding produces the best result to hold down the dust. Wear a mask!
Building the sink was not that much more complicated. I sized and made the opening first. Then calculated the dimensions for the sink bottom and cut to size. A hole was drilled in the bottom and the sides sloped to encourage drainage. I did this with a air sander, although a small belt sander would also work. Using construction epoxy (Simpson) I glued the sides of the box to the top of the bottom piece. Use enough glue to assure that you obtain a water tight seal. Clamp and let this set up overnight. The next morning mix up some more epoxy and place the counter top on the sink. Sink sides can be matched to the top with additional sanding if required.
After it dries, you will want to get it installed, but I suggest testing it for leaks first. Before you oil the stone, install the sink drain and fill it up with the garden hose. Don't fret too much if you have a small leak. I found that wax (toilet bowl) works great if you force it into the seam with a plastic putty knife. You can also go around the outside seams with heavy 100% silicone as a secondary precaution. It will get a heavy coat of mineral oil in end.
Treat it like an expensive piece of wood and you will be satisfied with the results.
I will post some photos.
Dean
Dean
Took the liberty to rotate and resize
Nice work on the bathroom
Doug
Thanks - Was not sure how to rotate. Oops - Never mind...
Greetings all -
Someone in this thread asked about alternatives to soapstone so I'll take that as an opportunity to ask a little about it myself.
I'm sold on soapstone as well but Mom doesn't think she'd like the dark tone. It *will* darken over time and treated with mineral oil it takes on what I consider a truely beautiful dark patina. But, she has to work in the kitchen more than I do so ....
We found a sandstone called Pietra Cardosa at a stone supplier here in Seattle. They market it for countertop material as well as carrying soapstone, slate and several other slab material.
The cost of this sandstone is less than soapstone. It's a lot harder than soapstone - you can actually scratch soapstone with your fingernail if you try hard enough. The sandstone will scratch with a knife but not with a fingernail. It, the sandstone, has a very attractive neutral grey color in its natural honed finish. It, too, darkens with the application of mineral oil but the supplier said a matte finished sealer would lessen the darkening. One could *not* work this with carbide tools as with soapstone - it will require diamond stone finishing, cutting and profile tools. The slabs available from this supplier are sufficiently wide (and long) that I should be able to fabricate the one 'L' shaped counter from a single piece thus no joints.
Question is, this stuff is rather porous compared to soapstone. Not porous as you might envision the sandstone building facing material - it's a *lot* denser than that. So I'm just throwing this out to see if anyone has had any experience with it successful or otherwise.
...........
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Thanks for the info
I'm waiting to hear back from the company in N J..........If we use it it will have to come from them as VT Soapstone is just too $$$$$$. And the local supplier is even worse!
Thanks again
Rupert
Rupert -
I got an email notification of two replies to my post on this subject but can only find one (yours). [to all: was there another one that was perhaps deleted?]
Thanks....
...........
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
Dean,
thanks for the informative post. I confess I've never heard of soapstone counters until now, but I am definitely intrigued.
Andy -
I chose soapstone over granite because I could work it myself (and save $$$ in fabrication costs) and over concrete because I didn't want to gamble on the final result. After reading about concrete counter construction, I was sure that I would have a backyard full of stepping stones:)
Maybe a soapstone article in FHB is needed to get the word out... anyone care to co-author?
Dean
Is it strong enough to support an undermount sink? I suspect the answer is yes, but the name makes it sound fragile. And I also assume there is no problem getting glue to stick?
In the picture that I provided the sink is resting on the cabinet. This is a standard Kohler undermount. I will upload a picture of the bath with the soapstone sink, and yes the epoxy seems to do a fine job gripping to the soapstone. Perhaps it should not go without saying that the soapstone must not be oiled prior to assembly. Oiling is the very last step. Also, prior to using the epoxy, I cleaned the stone carefully to remove any dust and residues. I used lacquer thinner as the final step prior to spreading the glue.
Roy:
Did you take into account the weight of the soapstone when building (or buying) your cabinets? If you built them, what precautions did you take?
I am going to be building some of my own cabinets soon, and was also THINKING of using soapstone...so I am in the "gathering information" stage.
Thanks,
Jamie
Jamie...........We are having cabinets built and he's aware so I'm sure he'll keep it in mind. Plus he has to allow for the apron front sink
Rupert