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My husband and I are looking at wooded lots to build a small house with a full basement. We have found a lot that we like, but it is somewhat rocky (typical NE glacial soils) and we are concerned about finding really big rocks that may greatly increase our excavation costs. What is the best way to scout this site before we agree to buy it? We’re thinking about putting a condition in our offer that would allow us to dig some holes with a back hoe before we agree to buy, but I’m wondering if there are any other tried and true methods.
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In some jurisdictions they have geological records which "might" suggest a tendency or not for rock near the surface. Still I wouldn't put my faith in that alone. Having a contingency in the contract to allow some subsurface exploration is a good idea. They may not want you digging up the place with a backhoe, however. You could have some test borings done. It's not very invasive and, if you do enough of them, should give you the peace of mind that you're seeking.
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See what kind of holes the neighbors had, if there are any neighbors to ask.
Large rocks really won't be much of a problem. As long as your excavator has real construction equipment and doesn't show up on site with a tonka truck backhoe. Ledge, however, will be your problem. Walk the lot and look at and analyze any rock outcroppings. Look at the big picture, for several hundred yards around, to get an idea of where any ledge rises and falls. If you feel you don't have an "eye" for it, your excavation sub most likely will.
Your lot should have already had perc tests done ("wooded lot", I'm assuming no town septic) on it. If so, the results should be recorded and they will show the soil types found during hole excavation. If no perc tests have been done, the cost can be negotiated into your purchase contract. The seller pays in full, or you share the cost. Everything is negotiable unless you are too timid to ask.
If no records exist, you should insist on a perc test contingency clause in your purchase contract. Even if records do exist, still include the clause. You can also define the area of the lot where the perc test is to be done. Thus, if you choose to dig test holes within the footprint of your proposed house and find ledge...there's your out. Just don't forget to dig where you really want the septic system to be located.
Once you bring the equipment on site, you're paying for it...so have a plan. Preplan several hole locations. Idle equipment costs $$.
Also, look at the big picture...there may be a "perfect" spot on the lot for your house...don't shy from that spot and build in an inferior location just because a chunk of ledge got in your way. If you do, you'll forever be justifying to visitors "We wanted to build over here, but we didn't have the foresite to properly plan for contingencies, so we had to instead build over here where the mosquitos breed."
And please don't opt out of blasting and instead pin your foundation to the ledge. Spend the few hundred (or more) dollars and have it blasted out. Otherwise you'll end up with a half-basement you'll be regretting for the entire time you live in the house. You'll regret it even more should you ever try to sell the house.
Consider setting aside $1000 for blasting if you're that concerned over it. If you get a clean hole or end up with a couple of small sections to pop out that cost less that a grand, you'll be ahead of your budget on day one. If your blasting bill comes to $2000, you'll only be one grand in the hole instead of two.
Don't fret too much. Know all the options, and enjoy building your house.
*Heidi'Most of the mysteries in new construction lie underground. I tell my clients to expect surprises and to budget for them. I have them start at five thousand dollars. I don't want to spend that money but it happens and is a hell of a way to start a project. Better to go in over-prepared and not need it than the alternative.I don't know where you are building but it doesn't matter- the U.S. Geological Survey should give you an idea what you will find as will the Army Corp of Engineers well log . Additionally, talk to local well drillers and excavators-
*Mongo and Doug just about nailed it...don't buy nothing until you have an approved septic system plan (or town sewer), an approved water supply, and.... unless you can see a lot of rock outcroppings, most anyhing you find in the first 6' will be manageable.. if you can get to 6' , you can usually bring the grade up nice around the foundation so you get good drainage away from the house...and if the lot is pitched, make sure you install an under drain to DAYLIGHT so you can take advantage of the grade and insure a dry basement... if you are into ledge , you can intercept a water seam at wet times of the year that will play hell with a basement... but with a drain to daylight , no sweat...a backhoe is not an excavator, a modern tracked excavtor can rip ledge we never would have considered 20 years ago, and a clever guy can move some mighty big boulders, or they can be drilled and split..or they can be drilled and blasted...local knowledge is very helpful,, diggers and well drillers, geologists, have it, and a lot of builders who have to pay diggers and well drillers..don't be too quick to pass on a questionable lot, boulders are usually easier to handle than swamps..and arrange for good access to your site... i always remember the homeowners who don't want to widen the road or change the grade , so everyone bids higher to cover the cost of fighting it... and you came back a year after the move in and the road is wide, and the trees are cut.. and it would have saved so much money and agravation if it had been done at the beginning...
*Good advice from Mongo.
*It always is.Rich Beckman
*Hi there,Very good advise from the guys and most of the pitfalls have been identified.Do talk to the neighbours, do talk to the local building inspectors, do talk to the local health inspectors, water quality and septic systems are important, do talk to the local excavation contractors and don't be shy with the questions.Regarding equipment, I always order the biggest piece of equipment that will fit on my site. Most backhoes will be stopped dead when you find large rocks, a hyhoe or excavator will keep on digging, do the job quicker and will be cheaper 75% of the time, even including float time.Gabe
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My husband and I are looking at wooded lots to build a small house with a full basement. We have found a lot that we like, but it is somewhat rocky (typical NE glacial soils) and we are concerned about finding really big rocks that may greatly increase our excavation costs. What is the best way to scout this site before we agree to buy it? We're thinking about putting a condition in our offer that would allow us to dig some holes with a back hoe before we agree to buy, but I'm wondering if there are any other tried and true methods.