Looking for input on design/construction of a custom pocket door. I figure since it is simply a sliding door that going to all the trouble of mortise and tenon construction would be overkill. At any rate I need to reproduce in basic style a 2 panel 1 over 1 door from a 1920s house with a flat panel and simple thumbnail bead along the inside edges of the rails and styles. The door is only 24″ wide and about 79″ tall. The originals in the house have stiles and top and bottom rails that are about 5″ wide with a center rail that is about a foot wide. Needs to only be paint grade and the standard 1 and 3/8 thick. What would you do to maximize economy and speed of construction in this situation? One idea I had was full MDF panels with faux stile and rails simply glued on, kind of a sandwich idea, although the latch edge of the door would not look good. Your thoughts please.
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Well, if you want to not make one and a HC masonite in maybe that pattern was available, would you want it? Take a look at the third page of the online catalogue, molded series. http://www.masonite.com/productguide/PdfFrames/catalog.htm
I have also purchased in the past a solid core veneer 2 panel that matched a 30's house interior door. A local supplier got it for me. 235/285 in poplar.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Thanks Calvin. It looks like the two panel smooth may be close to what I am looking for. I would assume these are available through HD or Lowes. Do you know?
Don't know, don't shop there. Support Your Local Lumberyard bumpersticker is on my van.
I would think if they are like the smooth (don't get the wood grain) masonite 6 panel prehungs (55.00 ea), the slab for the two panel would maybe be pretty reasonable. Check it out. The 250 price was for a poplar solid core. You be the judge.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I've never built a door that way, although I've built pseudo-frame-and-panel cabinet sides like that. I think it should work for a sliding door. You should pay attention to keeping the door flat during the glue-up. You could glue a lumber strip along the latch edge to cover the edge of the MDF.
Clamp and glue the heck out of the mdf latch edge and top with Bondo, you'll never know.
Turtleneck
I like this idea and it would certainly be less expensive than buying a 250 to 300 premade door. Thanks
I don't like exposed MDF edges, especially where they'll take a beating. Granted, as this pocket door is opened and closed, the edge may get repeatedly whacked against the jamb...and long-term, even when buried under a veneer of bondo...the MDF edge may take enough hits to cause the bondo or paint to delaminate and the edge treatment to fail.
How about 2-by poplar for the stiles and rails. Fairly economical. Either half-inch MDF (heavier but economical) or birch ply (for lighter weight but $$) for the flat panels. Cut the stiles/rails to size, dado inside edges to capture the flat panel. Mill the thumbnail, miter as required. Butt joints for the stiles/rails with Titebond and four #20 biscuits per joint.
Just another idea.