Stupid HO q here.
Upstairs bathroom door shuts, and I hear the catch in the strike plate, but the contact is minimal and you can just push the door open.
I tried bending out the strike plate, to no avail.
I’m thinking about prying off the casing, shimming out the strike plate area, and reattaching the casing. Will this work? Is there an easier fix? Shimming the strike plate maybe? I’m thinking that would look pretty bad.
TIA.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it’s like he’s stuck between stations.
Replies
What do you SEE when you close the door?
Is the door too far away from the jamb? How much? No more than 1/8" would be good. If that's ALL it is, a poor installation, you could remove the casing and shim the entire strike side.
Bending the hardware is not the way to go.
Does the door sag? Look at the reveal at the top of the door - the top hinge might be loose causing the bolt to hit the strike and not go into the hole.
Do you have structural problems in the floor? Did the hinge side drop enough to cause the bolt to miss the hole?
Does the door bolt actually enter the opening in the strike plate? Or just slide along the face of it?
1) Tighten (just snug, no grunting) the hinge screws on all hinges to be sure the door is not moving on the hinges. Attempt to close - same problem? go to 2.
2) Remove strike plate completely (2 screws). Close door - did it latch and not "push open"? If yes, you know the following: the lock bolt is long enough for the door gap, the lock works and the opening in the strike plate is not aligned with the bolt. If this is the case, likely, go to 3.
3) Replace strike plate. Smear a little of DW's lipstick on the end of the bolt. Turn the door knob so the bolt is withdrawn into the door. Close door. Release knob so bolt hits strike plate. Turn knob again so bolt is withdrawn into door. Open door. The lipstick mark on the strike plate is the location of your interference.
I see many of these and frequently a little judicious filing of the strike plate opening will cure the problem. Or loosening the lockset screws will allow you to wiggle things a bit and get it to align - retighten screws. Or a combination of both.
They can be frustrating - lipstick is the secret to finding the problem.
Jim
Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
3)
Stupid HO q here
Stupid Homeowner or Stupid Question? ;)
Remember there are no stupid questions (but I've met a ton of stupid homeowners)
Ummm, geez, I guess I better go with stupid question! Otherwise I'm calling myself a dummy, and my wife does that too much already.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.
Check to see if the bolt is going into the strike ( not hitting above or below the hole). Put a longer screw ( I use up to 3") into the top hinge (jamb side) and see what happens. If the bolt is hitting at the bottom that should correct it. I have ground a little out of the bottom of the strke plate and resolved it many times but usually it is a sag and the screw will correct it.
I use the brass colored (adonized) ones from Wal-mart. I keep an assortment onhand. they blend with most of the (brass plated/adonized) hinges.
If the throw of the bolt is not catching but is centered on the strike plate you can shim out the hinges a lot easier than pulling the casing and moving the jamb. May not see it in Fine Home Building centerfold but decent result.
Bob
If the reveal on the strike side is even (top to bottom) but wide try putting cardboard shims behind the hinges to close it up some so the latch engages the strike fully. I would think the door is sagging some so the reveal at the top is a little tighter than the bottom then try a 3" screw in the top hinge through the jamb into the stud to suck the door over a little tighter to the jamb which will also raise the door up a little allowing the latch to clear the strike.
I would have to agree with JTC1 (Jim). He has left you with some very good instructions.
Other things that can cause your problem is...
1. Warped door - If it's a new door it can still be warped. If the building supplier stores its door standing up, that can cause a door warp. Home Depot is famous for this. Old doors can warp as well, I find that less common than todays new doors.
2. Incorrectly installed door stop. If this is the case you can tell by comparing the line of the door stop with the line of the door jamb and see if they are parallel.
3. I the door is warped you can also remove the door stop on the handle side. close the door and reattach the door stop. Don't push the stop too hard against the doorwhen you are reattaching it. This will give the illusion the door is straight and take the pressure off the door.
Dave
It sounds to me like your strike plate needs to be moved towards the door stop.
When you have to bend the tongue of the strike too much you form a "ramp" so minimal pressure pushes the throw back in.
Edited 6/23/2007 10:03 am by mikeys
All those things others have mentioned can happen to any door (especially a (bathroom door) Most often. the door has drooped and leaves the latchbolt riding below the strikeplate's opening.
If you put a little masking tape on to that area, and get down on one knee and pencil mark it precisely at the bolt's bottom edge, it will show you if the bolt is too low. (Hanging up) That being the case, I use a nibbling tool (Radio Shack) and bite off enough to lower the opening in the strike.(A file can do it also.)
If, (On the other hand?)the bolt is properly centered, (Vertically)then you must nibble the front of the strike hole.
If your lock set is one of the older mortise Bit key locks, (Which had/ has a two hole strike, some times, just cutting off the small section that separates the top and bottom holes will allow the bolt to enter.
Worn down hinges will cause a door to droop. If the two hinges leaves are not in line, you'll see a noticeable gap between the knuckles.
Change the hinges.
If, (as others suggested) you must move the door stop, use a sharp knife to separate the film of paint that binds the stop, Then, with a nail set, punch the small finish nails through to remove the stop for relocation
Don't use the old holes or old nails . Steinmetz
Thanks to all. Leave it to me to find the most complicated solution to an easy problem. First thing I did was tighten the top screw on the top hinge. Problem solved. I think I'll have to get a longer screw in there at some point but we're good now. Thanks again.
Most nights are crystal clear, but tonight it's like he's stuck between stations.