Here’s the setup: I am moving the drain of out master bath tub to the opposite side of the bath. Slab on grade construction. I’d like to leave the other place available to put the drain back if a later owner (or myself) so desires.
I’ve broken out the concrete and have roughed in the drain and vent piping, I just wanted to see if I’m making any obvious blunders here. I think I’ll put a cleanout near the bottom there too. The vent piping will cut back into the original stack, much further up.
My other question is this, any guidlines for repouring concrete to fill that trench again? I would support the pipe with wire to position it exactly where I want, then pour around it… but what about the round cutout sections? Just slap some low slump stuff into the edges, or use some mesh to mold the bottom and sides?
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Oh, good Lord, no. But I can give him two dollars and an assault rifle.
Replies
Sorry, Paul, I'd like to contribute my $.02 but those photos are way too big for me to download on dial-up.
Can you shrink 'em down to 50kb each?
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
Here ya go:
View Image
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Captain America! I command you to... WANK!
Edited 8/8/2007 8:33 pm ET by xxPaulCPxx
Great. Now what was the question again...?
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
Anything look obviously wrong here? What do you think about what I said about the concrete?
Oh, you said you were going to loan me $10,000 too. You want my Paypal account?Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Captain America! I command you to... WANK!
The only thing I see which bothers me is that you're gonna cast the trap in below the slab with no way to get to it. I hate doing that on principle, and usually build a box form below grade to leave the trap free for maintenance.
But that makes no sense when the tub or shower can't be moved once it's tiled in, so in those cases I don't use standard trap fittings but will use long-radius 90's or U-bends to make getting a snake through there easier.
As to the concrete, I'd just wedge it in place nice and tight with tamped ½" gravel and pour. But ask Brownbagg; he's a lot more knowledgeable about concrete than I am.
Speaking of Paypal, are U coming to the Fest? I'm still waiting to get yer dough so I can buy enough beer for ya.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
I'd love to come, but I'm on the wrong coast :(
I wouldn't cast in the drain areas, just the long tube that connects one side to the other.
I'm a little worried about the concrete in that trench, as it will have a 2" plastic tube travelling 4' through a 4" (6" with the deeper trench) thick slab. The slab itself is nearly 50yo.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Oh, good Lord, no. But I can give him two dollars and an assault rifle.
We use pieces of PVC pipe all the time in footing and foundation wall pours to block out openings in the form for passing electrical service, footing drains, etc., and the ABS sched 80 you've got in your pics is at least twice as heavy duty as that. I wouldn't worry at all about it standing up to the small amount of concrete you're planning to pour over it.
And I agree with Sam to a certain extent; I'd just use a bag or three of pre-mix and not go nutz making my own high/low-slump ~psi whatever high-tech concrete mix. I wouldn't bother goofing around with self-leveling it, though; I'd just float it flat and flush with the surrounding floor, and then tap it a bit with the float after a few minutes to sink the aggregate and leave the top smooth.
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not broughtlow by this? For thine evil pales before that whichfoolish men call Justice....
You don't need structural cement in that particular location, you could pack it with sand and as long as you had no pests digging thru it, you'ld never know.
I would just use cheap Redi-Mix and add enough water to make it self leveling. Since you want to make it easy to remove in the future, add a bag of sand to each Redi-Mix bag to lower the cement:aggregate ratio, then make it self leveling.
If you want a smooth finish, pour it 1/8" low, come back after it's set and pour a bag of sanded grout on top for finishing.
SamT
My only contribution would be that if the black pipe going horizontally off the top of the drain line is for a vent it's not code; vents must be vertical up to a point not less than 6" above the flood rim of the fixture. It looks to me like you're close enough to the existing vent without having to add another one- see "Trap Arm Lengths" in any code reference.
Bill
Nope, too long for that.
According to my readings:
1.5" pipe has a max trap to vent distance of 3' 6"2" pipe has a max trap to vent distance of 5'
Unfortunatly, the cast iron piece cast into the concrete is only 1.5"... much as I would like to make the whole thing 2" or 3", I can't justify breaking up all that concrete to make it so. Thanks for putting me onto that idea though, it would have been much easier to do and I wasn't aware of it!Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Oh, good Lord, no. But I can give him two dollars and an assault rifle.