Replies

1. 
   JamesDuHamel | Jun 12, 2002 03:42am | #1

   Not a problem.

   James DuHamel

   J & M Home Maintenance Service

2. 
   55512122 | Jun 13, 2002 05:57am | #2

   Rez, I'm thinking doing using insulation board on the inside of my interior walls. What area of country do you live in and did you also use a vapor barrier (plastic) over the blueboard. Why did you choose Blueboard? How did you address fitting around windows and doors, sheetrock or trimboard, thanks Roger

1. 
   rez | Jun 13, 2002 08:24am | #3

   Roger-  I'm a novice compared with the crew that normally posts here, so what I did is not a recommendation but is just what I did at the time on my first house redo. So I learn as I go along amidst the perils and pitfalls of the learning curve and the maple tree outside with the scar from my hammer where I vented during one of the days where the old house won.

   I decided not to use a plastic vapor barrier over the foamboard because it seemed overkill at the time. I did use foilback celotex at times on the upstairs cathedral ceiling and taped the seams with foil tape. The celotex was easier to cut the trapezoids between the rafters for the 1 1/2" airspace for the cold roof. The reason I chose blueboard is I found an ad in the local newspaper advertising foamboard insulation for sale.

   Thinking it was probably white styro I went to check it out anyway and it was remains from a huge log cabin a guy was building. He needed the room cause windows were coming and pieces were beginning to disappear, so I bought an 8 ft stack of blueboard in 2" 2 1/2" and 3" thicknesses for 800 bucks. To be honest that is why I chose blueboard at the time. It is great insulation tho- pick it up with one hand and see how long it takes to feel the heat from you hand reflect back. I left the house unheated this winter while I was gone working and it would be in the 20s outside for several days and the house would be 40degrees inside. I figured heat from ground thru basement  and large southern exposed windows did it. I also covered the studs and rafters with foamboard and used long screws for the drywall since wall paper was my finish and cedar t&g paneling. I wasn't concerned about drywall cracks appearing later from shifting after paint.

   Windows and doors were installed with the insulation and finish walls in mind. This was a total DIY job with no thought of selling later so I spent more time than was reasonable I suppose. I custom made deeper trim and sills to fit.:)  When I took on the project the house was so far gone it couldn't be hurt. I don't know what your scenario is but I was down to supporting walls and studs and clapboard siding with no sheathing beneath it so I built the house to fit the windows and doors. If your house is already done I would think one could custom fit deeper trim and sills to allow for the foam and drywall. I'm sold on the foam for insulation.

   Disclaimer:Taunton Press and Finehomebuilding does not recognize or subscribe to this guy's methods of practice therefore we are not to be held accountable if you try any of his stuff and if you do, you do so at your own risk. We are Fine-get it- Fine-homebuilding and are not representative of the shenanigans portrayed above.

   Edited 6/13/2002 2:29:21 AM ET by rez

   Edited 9/15/2006 11:26 am ET by rez

1. 
   UncleDunc | Jun 13, 2002 11:12am | #4

   I have a pile of it in the garage that I picked up as scrap. It has a very thin platic film skin on both side. Several pieces have big bubbles on them, so I know it off gasses something. But the bubbles are still tight three years later, so I also know that the skin keeps the gas in. Unless you peeled each piece before installing it, :) I'm with James. Don't worry about it.