Does anyone have experience with downdraft vents that install behind the cooktop and pop up?
We are completely remodeling a kitchen and will be installing the cooking appliances in an island. It looks like the downdraft behind a cooktop and a single oven installed below the island counter next to the cooktop is a good choice, but I wanted to see if anyone has input on how well downdraft vents work. We will be using a 30 inch 4 burner gas cooktop.
A hood over the island option seems expensive, visually dominant, head banging and would impeed the view through windows to the backyard.
thank you.
Replies
They've improved over the last few years, but there's no comparison between downdraft & conventional hoods. If you're using a shallow pot or fry pan it probably won't be an issue. But the deeper/bigger the pot the less effective downdrafts become. Like everything else, it's all a compromise
I've had both, and in the future will always opt for the overhead hood. The problem with the downdraft at the back of the stove is that it draws the burner flame toward the back of the stove, creating a very uneven heat over the surface of the frying pan or skillet. Maybe not a big thing for some, but I like to cook and I like it much better on a stove with an overhead exhaust hood.
I've never been a big fan of the downdraft vents. Several years ago, I did several kitchen remodels where we removed downdraft stoves. I was amazed at the amount of grease and "gunk" in the vent piping (and the stench, too). Most of them looked like a raging fire just waiting for a spark.
If you just have to have downdraft, make sure the vent lines are as straight as possible and try to install them so they can be cleaned periodically.
Thank you to everyone for your feedback. I will definitely look into the issue of access for cleaning the vent. So, here is a question in relation to hoods: What happens if they are placed higher than the recommended 24-30 inches above the cooktop? A hood at 30 inches above the cooktop is right in front of my forehead and I would bump into it. We keep trying to imagine using a hood, but it works against opening up the kitchen. The cooking appliances are going in the island to make the kitchen more social - I have always disliked the typical layout facing the wall. Also, the kitchen is not huge, so a hood would dominate, hanging down in the middle of the room, in front of the windows to the back yard, visible from the dining room and front door. We do not have room in the budget for a beautiful hammered copper hood that would go with the Arts and Craft style of the home and the kitchen. Also, the downdraft would provide a sort of backsplash for the cooktop while we are cooking and tuck out of the way when not in use. However, we want the vent to work. A form and function conundrum.Thanks again for your help.
Here's a picture of a kitchen I did a couple of years ago with a really neat hood. I forget the brand name but it was very expensive and looked great. It certainly minimized the visual impact. I took this picture before I extended the telescoping "shaft" that covered the actual ducting and wiring.
Unfortunately, you're stuck with 30" - 36" between the bottom of the hood and the top of the stove. Every one I've seen uses these dimensions.
Here's another minimalist hood. Don't know if it works with Arts and Crafts; I didn't think it would look right in this kitchen (owners picked it out) but in the end everyone was happy with it.
Skip the hood altogether. Your grandmothers and mine didn't have one. Once a month it gets smoky and you open the window.
Hardly anyone has anything good to say about downdrafts
Edited 3/14/2006 3:51 pm ET by smslaw
Two points to consider;
I) The fan/hood will remove a volume of air and this air has to be replaced with fresh air from outdoors pulled into the house when the fan runs. this air will be untempered and the bigger the fan and CFM the bigger the problem can get.
Two Choices,
a. If the fan/Hood system you select has an option for fresh air makeup (very rare) in the hood package get it, its well worth the upfront cost verses the added heating and ac load probelms and costs. ( The air the fan needs by volume to replace is brought in through the hood and then mixes with the air in the hood and goes back outside without adding a hugh heating or air-conditioning load.)
b. An HRV (Heat recovery ventilator used when design for heating is below 32 deg. F, Sensible load (temperature)) or an ERV ( Energy recovery ventilator when high humidity is problem- Latent Load= Humidity) or an TRV = Combo HRV/ERV works all climates especially mid-atlantic Maryland Delaware to South Carolina . What they do is bring in the fresh air you need at a controlled point and recover from 65% to 90% of the temperature going out and preheat or precool the air coming in so the hood is taking out air and you are saving the recovered energy btu's verses just dumping and 100% replacement.
1. What is the CFM (cubic feet per minute ) of the fan ?
2. Where will the replacement air come from that this fan will remove ?
II) Will the fan create a negative air pressure problem of pulling in air down through the fireplace if existing or other openings or cracks in the housewrap (ex.Tyvek) to the outside and/or will moisture, that can, at the right temperature condense (dew point) at the wrong spot and cause mold?
I get more and more client calls to fix these problems than ever before now that buildings and houses are so tightly constructed, well good Luck, The Blueductman
Thanks for your excellent input. No Tyvek, no tightly wrapped house - 100-year-old very leaky Arts and Crafts 2 story with basement and attic. In answer to your questions:
1. What is the CFM (cubic feet per minute ) of the fan ? Not decided yet - it looks like the Dacor telescoping downdraft under consideration uses 1000 or 1600 CFM remote blower. Are you saying that we may be better off with the 1000 CFM? We will have a 4 burner cooktop/range, no grill, no wok burner.2. Where will the replacement air come from that this fan will remove ?Where it does now - the outside.We have so much work to do on this old house, that a heat recovery system will be way down the road. Insulation and tightening the house will come in bits and pieces as we do work.thank you
Edited 3/25/2006 5:52 pm ET by gunderson1909
Good Day, (I Hope)
Thanks for your comments, as imtell contractors as soon as you control where the air comes from you can control where the energy loss or recovery is but you control where the moisture is trying to (wick) into the space=you control where the mold or lack of is taking place, Good Luck, Ken H.