Replies

1. 
   ToolBear_ | Mar 30, 1999 10:14am | #8

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   Matt G -

   I've been giving serious thought to getting out the epoxy resin and cloth and building my pan out of 3/4 ply and 2x6s with epoxy on the inside for my attic HWH. It doesn't have to be pretty. It is normally dry, but it needs to drain when IT happens.

   The Habitat sheetmetal pan fill the whole floor space in the laundry and there is a 4x6 raised lip to the front.

   TB

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 05:05am | #9

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   May be a good idea. Especially if you can find a scratched one cheap.

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 07:37am | #10

   *My tentative solution is to tile the entire bathroom, including the washing machine alcove, and put in a floor drain. I'm thinking it could be done without looking like a gym shower if the slope was almost zero -- the drain is only for the random emergency, after all. Subtlety is everything... i like the front loaders a lot, BTW, though they are expensive.What exactly are the chances of a blowout anyway? I used the stainless braided hoses which seem unlikely to go all at once. I suppose it wouldn't be that hard to plumb copper all the way to the washing machine inlet? And make it a policy to run clothes only when you're at home -- esp. the dryer -- they do catch fire sometimes...

3. 
   JohnE | Mar 31, 1999 10:14am | #11

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   Vegetable or mineral oil floater in the WC and traps is very common to summerize homes in the hot climates when the snowbirds head back to the northlands.

   If you're concerned on wasting water in a wet trap try to run the drain outdoors. That's a problem if you live in a cold climate or if local ordinance doesn't allow (potential) grey water surface drainage.

   A pan usually means the washer is upstairs. If noise is a concern look into having a conrete pan poured to help silence the machine.

   My father put the dryer on cinder blocks for my mother as she couldn't bend down that far after some medical problems.

   Cheers; JE

1. 
   Jay_ | Mar 31, 1999 12:50pm | #12

   *"I suppose it wouldn't be that hard to plumb copper all the way to the washing machine inlet?"It might not be hard to do, but it would be a very bad idea, copper work hardens and eventualy cracks when subject to vibration, i don't know about your washer, but mine vibrates a LOT. Stick with the hoses. Personaly I have never seen a clothes washer leak, though I hear it does happen, however I have seen 2 or 3 ice makers leak, so maybe a pan under the refrigerator would be a good idea?jay

4. 
   Guest_ | Mar 31, 1999 09:59pm | #13

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   Good point. I was only being facetious anyway. Seems decent quality SS braid hoses are enough, well, enough for me. There is even a gadget that locks out the water when the machine is not operating. or you could use ball valves to open/close the water every wash. Not worth it...

   Hey, why not put a pan under the kitchen sink? And the toilet, and ...

5. 
   JohnE | Mar 31, 1999 11:40pm | #14

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   Andrew;

   Code requires washer pans because not everyone uses SS braid or shuts off the water between usages. The rubber DO rupture and even the SS hoses will rupture. I caught my hot line in time to prevent the rupture. The aneurysm was the size of a small plum. Personally, I like the single handle shut-offs. Very user friendly.

   The furnace tech that did some work for me learned the hard way why pans should be installed upstairs. He lost 1/2 the lower level sheetrock in his house. Nice surprise after 6 months of remodeling!

   WH pans are also a good idea. I had the bottom rupture on one unit and the T&P valve blew on another after the thermostat stuck on.

   Remember, in many fires, the water (by firefighters) causes more damage than the flames....

   Cheers; JE

6. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 1999 08:42am | #15

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   I'm too casual about the problem -- our washer is in the basement on concrete with a floor drain. Perhaps the hoses should be replaced periodically? I've never known anyone this happened to, though I'm sure it does happen.

   Thanks for the tip. I'll be sure to keep the firefighters out if we have a fire.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 02, 1999 12:58am | #17

   *In some of the Taco Bell's I've done drafting on, we put a hot water hose bib under the lavatory counter, and a floor drain in the tile floor. You could hose the whole floor down easily.I've known people who've had a washing machine blow something inside and put water all over. They wished they also had threshold weatherstripping to Laundry Room door.Various failures can cause spillage of water, and in some cases it can involve a LOT of water. Sometimes the waste line can back up and overflow when the washer is draining, or the drain from the washer falls down and drains on the floor. Also as mentioned the supply hose can blow out or drip, or a water control solenoid can crack or an interior water line come loose.Those new moulded plastic pans look nice. I thought I saw one that had a wainscott in back with a recess for the drain inlet and supply valves.

7. 
   Guest_ | Apr 02, 1999 12:58am | #16

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   Looking for suggestions on pre-fab pans which can be connected to a floor drain or alternatively how the constuct a pan. Any preferences or +/- on creamic tile, metal, etc.?

   Also, it has been suggested that the new wave of front loaders, if installed side by side, might be easier fpor an elederly or disabled person to use if installed on a low platform. Seems to me some laundromats have their front loaders on a platform or pedestal. Any comments? How would that impact the drain pan issue?

   Scott

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 27, 1999 10:28pm | #1

   *The platform idea is great. Dishwashers, dryers, other front loading appliance involve pointless stooping. Ever seen a wall oven installed at knee level?I want a washer above the dryer so that the clothes fall from one to the other automatically. Someone must have invented this by now.On the drain pan, to whoever answers, how do you keep the trap wet?

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 27, 1999 11:06pm | #2

   *DScottThe platform makes it much easier to install a drain pan and certainly makes the loading and unloading easier. The platform is constructed with a raised lip and has a rubber membrane in the bottom that rest on a sloped surface.With regards to keeping the trap wet, this is done with a trap primer. It's a small water line that is connected to the drain and drips water into the trap.

1. 
   ToolBear_ | Mar 28, 1999 08:59am | #3

   *At Habitat's tract here in Irvine, Ca, both the upstairs laundry and the water heater closet have 4"H sheetmetal pans that are plumbed to the outside wall. I didn't notice a trap in evidence as they don't connect to a waste line. Mostly for those moments when something lets go and water is dripping, leaking or shooting around.I need to find one for my water heater in the attic. I have a small one. Their pans are nicer.ToolBear

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 28, 1999 12:43pm | #4

   *Andrew,I've heard some use vegetable oil to keep an infrequently used trap wet.Jerry

2. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 1999 02:44am | #5

   *Ick. At least pick something that won't go rancid. Mineral oil? I think the water-wasting trap dripper is code, but heck, what the inspector doesn't know won't hurt him.

3. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 1999 05:14am | #6

   *I drew a detail a few weeks ago for a client's house. A 1 1/2" recess in the floor slab connected to a 3" plastic floor drain w/ removable grille, no trap, and 3" dryer vent sloped to "daylight" in the foundation wall, and covered with a 3" aluminum dryer vent termination with backdraft damper. Easy to find parts.Contractor and owner chose to go with more standard pan and pvc line however.Am not sure the "dryer vent" would system would work that well, am concerned that ants could get into the house easily.A small swing-type check valve could work as a trap, if there was enough fall (2'?) to build up enough water pressure to operate it.Trap primers can be expensive, although they are popular in commercial work. Sometimes a small line from the toilet float valve is used to add a little water per flush to the drain trap. Assuming there is a toilet nearby.Am not sure how easy it would be to get a washer into a pan without bending the lip. Would also make it somewhat difficult to pull away from the wall for servicing or cleaning the hose filter screens.

4. 
   Guest_ | Mar 29, 1999 07:34am | #7

   *Here are a coupla' companies who make washing machine pans:http://www.trendamerica.com/collage.htmlhttp://www.floodsaver.com/I've seen 'em in Lowes before, but they seamed over priced (can't remember the $ figure)One plumber told me that the flimsy plastic pans wern't so good, because the first time you tried to get the washer out of the pan - well that's it for the pan.Hey, here's an idea: How about just using a regular fiberglass shower pan?