How close should the drip edge be to the fascia? Should the kick out at the bottom of the drip edge be touching the fascia or can the drip edge be extended out to keep it from contacting the fascia? I attached a cheezy sketch since I might not be explaining myself correctly.
Thanks
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Replies
Not bad at all for cheesy.
Darn good even
yes, you want some drip lone free so the water doesn't bleed back down the face.
if this drip edge has no extend on it, over hang the shingles by a half inch too.
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Thanks Piffin. I forgot the extend part on my sketch. I'll be going to a local sheet metal shop tomorrow to see if they can fab me up some custom length drip edge. I need a shallow one so it won't cover up much of the trim.
you need enough kick so the water can D-R-I-P.....any contact and capillary action will pull the water back onto the trim/fasciaMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike take a look at the bmp.
saw it..... looks like you want a custom shape.... i'd be inclined to use a standard f-styleMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike what is an "f" style? How would you go about not covering the top of the trim?
your 2d one ( bottom ) is standard F-stylealso see here....http://www.amerimax.com/catalog/pdfs/pgs%2042-46.pdfyou can modify the standard by bending it up...
or try to get a custom one made like you want
in the end
i'd prefer having the drip edge and possibly burying some of the trim than not having the drip edgeMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I like the F8 and F5 styles.
blown
I need a shallow one so it won't cover up much of the trim.
Be careful that you don't choose looks over functionality.
If you don't get the water to drip away from your trim, then the trim won't look so good in a few years.
This is a point of the house takes alot of water. Or a little water alot of the time, which is probably worse.
Rich
Our home has no drip edge, Thinking when the previous owners re-roofed they did not pull a permit. I will be adding drip cap when I replace the fascia and boxing in the eaves.ML
the majority of the house we work on were built in the 1920's, with no drip edge---and no ill effects from it's lack.Now-a-days- with plywood/osb decking- it's a different story
Stephen
you probably don't need anything custom
around here I would simply ask for aluminum drip edge, narrow face.-- the part on the fascia is a much narrower profile.
we usually use the wide face-- but the narrow face is handy when the gutter is set too high and the spike and ferules are consistently interfering with the drip edge
stephen
Stephen I wish it was that easy. When I ask for drip edge they either look at me funny or take me to the wood trim section. When I finally get them to understand what I am talking about they tell me that is the only size they make. They tell me it must be custom made.
On the subject, I get water damage (mold, peeling paint, then rot if not attended) on the facia underneath each overlapped drip edge joint. I have the F channel style drip edge. I suspect there's some kind of capillary action going on. Would you recommend silicone on the overlap?
I have never had a problem like that--- never even seen it on tear-offs of old galv. drip edge and no underlayment. just to be controversial-- I usually put my drip edge down--and then ice gaurd OVER the drip edge--- and then my starter course/first course of shingles over laps the drip edge about 3/4"---- ideally my drip edge never gets wet.Stephen
"just to be controversial-- I usually put my drip edge down--and then ice gaurd OVER the drip edge"
I always thought that's the way it was supposed to be done! Better look. . . .
Here's what Grace says: "Consistent with good roofing practice, install membrane such that all laps shed water." That to me says over the drip edge.
Then they say: "Place metal drip edges or wood starter shingles over the membrane". Huh?
Guess I have a lot of drip edge to tear out! ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike
Before we had I&W membrane I would always install my 30lb tar paper 1st, then lay the drip edge over the tar paper.
At the bottom of the roof the water comes from below (ice damming) and capillary action.
With tar paper over drip edge, there is nothing to stop the water from wicking uphill.
That said, most of the damage and staining I have seen over the years is due to high fascia placement or metal edge that doesn't lay flat.
In the 50s and 60s the fascia (1x8 and no subfascia) around here was laid flush with the top of the 1x8 sheathing boards (somtimes laid too high). Now we lay the plywood over the subfascia.
I have also encountered water wicking uphill past the I&W that did not seal to the drip edge. In this case they did not use new drip edge (in the reroof) so the old drip edge could have been dirty.???
I commonly see aluminum rake edge ( we call it ODE) used as a drip edge. It is bent at a 90 degree so that it wants to spring back when used as an eave drip edge. Then it will direct water back under the shingles.
Best practice would be to have I&W under drip edge and a 6-12" wide strip placed over the drip edge. That's alot of detailing.
Guess I have a lot of drip edge to tear out! ;-)
I though you were in the legal profession.
Rich
"I though you were in the legal profession."
Well, I am (though I am loathe to admit it sometimes). But I put myself through school doing rehabs, carpentry, investment properties, etc. Almost stuck with it full time, but at the time, sitting behind a desk seemed an easier way to make a buck. Nowhere near as fun, though. Still do a lot of it on my own dime. So I've done a bit of roofing here & there.
My Lovely Assistant won't let me do it anymore tho'. She's askeered of heights! LOL!
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Mike
That answers that question.
"I though you were in the legal profession."
I need to learn how to spell. Geesh
Rich
mike, I have seen it detailed both ways-depending on the brand of icegaurd used
and--- i have seen employees argue vehemently over which is the right way I have come to the position that I will let whoever is installing it install it THEIR way-- they feel they have more controll and input into things---and it is an issue that really doesn't matter that much to me But when I personally do it--- drip edge first---ice gaurd over the top.
stephen
This guy makes custom anything, ya mighta heard of him...
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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They kill Prophets, for Profits.
maybe you are trying to buy drip edge from a lumber yard???
try a roofing material supply house--ABC Supply-- or a local house---- they usually carry drip edge in about8 different colors and several different profiles
but a lumberyard?-- white,maybe brown, and one profile.
best wishes,
stephen
I think some air space behind it is a good thing. I've worked with contractors who want everything tight and caulked.
Having a little gap helps it dry out and if flashing details are done correctly they are what keeps water out.
Form an aesthetic standpoint I like when there is a shadow line between materials.
When you hold everything tight and caulk it, the details disappear.
I think I'll leave a gap between the trim and drip edge. Being that I'm in Central Texas and we don't get much rain much less ice or snow, I hope the lack of a "full" size drip edge won't hurt the trim that much.
Did you back prime that trim? Probably a good idea considering it is so fancy.
Yes, back primed, and back painted it also. It's probably overkill but I'll do it anyway.
Edited 2/20/2009 3:10 pm ET by blownonfuel
Overkill works!
To some extent, amount of projection depends on wind conditions.
Fairly windy in my area, especially out in the countryside.
The projection we can get away with in town might lead to the drip edge getting ripped off by wind outside of town.
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I'll probably extend it by an 1/8. I hope it holds.