howdy – does anyone know a good way to dripedge a round roof ? incidentally, it’s a retrofit, but let me worry about that…
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call around to metal working places and/or large roofing companies.
I found a roofing place to make up J-channel to go around a round top window.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Either relief cut the bottom flange and let it overlap on itself (this doesn't look too bad if you take your time and have both green and red snips and make all the sections the same size) or use a shrinker to shrink the face. Most sheet metal shops will have one or I think I paid about $150 for mine.
http://www.eastwoodco.com/itemdy00.asp?T1=28053&I1.x=65&I1.y=41
Edited 3/26/2004 3:22 am ET by greencu
let me get this straight - I am going around the outside of a circle, and to my simple mind, it sounds like you're going around the inside - please explain. Also, are green and red snips right and left?
I think he meant snip the UPPER edge..to over lap it self..and yes Green and red are left an right..and yellow is straight.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I briefly tried snipping the upper edge and it seemed to make it pooch up at the cuts - also it seems to defeat the purpose of the dripedge, and it's a pain, and there's ALOT of these roofs, and I don't wanna... Someone told me of a vinyl product, but I couldn't find it, and the owner of the house works for Greenpeace and won"t allow the use of vinyl anyway, among other things, so...I've had other ideas, like cutting two inch wide arcs out of sheetstock, but I'm still hoping for the miracle product. Also, is a face shrinker anything like the board stretcher the guy at the lumberyard keeps telling me I need?
Greencu lives just across town from me, and i will probly see him in a week or so..but I'm guessin that a shrinker is like chimney crimper..if ya crimp enough it shortens the hunk of metal..semi educated guess here.
If it's doable he is the guy..his copper work is incredible..
notching the top does not defeat the purpose for the drip edge, it is the OVERHANG part that is to support the shingle that counts,,the notched part is just for nailing it up..the felt goes over the eave edgeing and under the rake edge..thats what matters.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Please excuse my ignorance - eave edge? rake edge?
when you put from here on known as DE,,..along the eave,,thats where a gutter will be..the DE supports the shingle overhang to help direct water to the gutter..and not let the shingle sag, causeing water to go behind the gutter and rot out the fascia ..the rake is the edge along the slope from eave to ridge..the purpose of the DE there is to suport the shingle overhang..and let any wayward drips be away from the rake fascia..and to make a slightly wavy plywood edge more straight..it also protects the plywood from being exposed in both instances..
The felt wants to be under the edge on the slope..so wind can't lift it..over on the eave so if water DOES find its way under tha shingles,, it has a barrier to channel it OVER the DE to the gutter..
When doing anything, that is outside..I tell everyone, "Think like water"..where is it going?
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
doen't the DE also protect the top of the fascia and fascia/plywood interface from water wicking back from the shingle edge?
To an extent..look at it this way..water can go uphill..for sure. Capillary action is odd in that way..the face flange of thr DE is no more than 1inch..I almost always have the top of the fascia in plane with the top of the truss or rafter..and lap the sheathing over the fascia..when the sheathing is 5/8 " the DE covers the seam, and yup it protects the interface or joint..that little curl on the DE is just for that..( I think it's called F-10 DE) break the path of contact for cap. action..also makes sliding up alum or vinyl fascia that much easier..
But again the main purpose (IMO) is shingle support.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
that's interesting...I've never put the fascia on first, but that certainly sounds like the right way to do it...can I blame my teachers? it always seems like we"re in a rush to get the deck on...
You always pull yout tape 47 1/4 up from the plumb cut on the tail and snap your line for the first row of ply wood. This allows the bottom of the sheet to overhang 3/4" over the tails.
Then you nail your fascia up to that plywood overhang.
we generally have a 2x subfascia on the tails, but I get the picture. the guys may laugh at me when I bring your idea up, but soon, I will be the boss...
Of course, none of this applies to my round nightmare, where the interface is truly horrible - not my doing, but now my problem...so I guess I'll go see the tinman.
however wide your fascia, make sure the leading edge is inline with, or slightly lower than, the roof plane or the drip edge will look aweful.
Nail the fascia to the plywood overhang? Nope.
I pull 47 from the sub. fascia..The fascia will be about flush with the ply, but BELOW it..the extra 1/4 inch is for the pitch of the roof. The sub fasia is not flush with the plumb cut top edge, it winds up below the top plane..due to it's thickness, and the Finish fascia is "stringed" or sighted for straight , along the bottom edge...the top can be a bit wild, being as the DE is covering the joint.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
I said UP TO..not literally nail it together...I would hope there would be some discretion used.
Fom now on I'm gonna have to make sure EVERY little detail is explained before I post a thread.
We don't use a "subfascia" here in the northeast, at least not here in the Boston area, anyway. Used 2x Doug Fir "Subfascia" in San Diego all the time, but I never once saw a "Finished Fascia" go over it.
The point was Plywood first, then the fascia.
Edited 3/27/2004 8:45 am ET by fitzcarpenter
fitz... we ALWAYS use a sub-fascia .. and last time i heard.. RI was still in the NE....
hah, hah, hah... you're right... with vinyl the sub fascia is the fascia.. and the alum fascia goes over that..
with 1x6 or 1x8 we always liked the subfascia so we can nail our roof sheath to something.. and also gives us something to shim the finish fascia against..
my old boss (back in the '60's ) always ran subfascia and trim.. threw up his drip edge.. blocked out for finisha fascia and shingled the roof ...
then he could get his "roof payment"...
couple a walls might be missing, no windows ... quite a few nails.. but he was always chasing the next payment....
anudder ting.. that was before the new codes..
here in coastal ri , we're in a 110 MPH zone... i don't think i can nail off roof sheathing without solid blocking at the eaves.. so.. sub-fascia again
3 zones in RI, north of us the zone is 100 MPH, and South County & Block Island the zone is 120 MPHMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I get ya what ya mean, but I just dont see a need for a 2x sub fascia or blocking. I've never seen a roof fail from wind cause by any structural issues goin on around the eaves. Not saying it hasn't happened, but I've never heard or come across it. I think its wonderful if a builder wants to do it, but I'm not going through the time and the materials cost for little or no tangible difference. 100+ year old house around here never seem to have it.
I pull ####line across all my tails before installing any fascia and shim anything out of whack to my lines first, then put the fascia on. 6 and 1/2 dozen of the other, i just like to plan a step ahead
He is not trying to pull your leg, a sheet metal shop use a shrinker all the time. They should have no problem making what you are after.
Snip the verticle flange (the part of the drip edge that overlaps and runs parallel to the fascia. If you cut the flange with the proper snip (yes, greens and reds are lefts and rights only I don't know which is which. I use them both with either hand, depending on what kind of cut I need to make.) the flange will overlap itself in the proper direction going downhill when you install the drip edge around your curve.
Most body shops have shrinkers and stretchers, but the throat depth is only about 1" max.
thanks for the ellucidation - it seems counter-intuitive, but I'll try it. It just seems like the uphill edge of the horizontal flange would have to be shorter than the downhill, as it is a smaller circle...but I'll try it.
ok, this is the second to last time I'll bug you about this - I tried snipping the vertical flange and now understand that, but I still had to snip the horizontal to bend it . this was just done here and not actually applying it to a curved surphase. since this idea may not be appropriate in my particular situation anyway, it may be a moot point, but I gotta know.
Dude, who's the G.C.? (rhetorical)
Custom radii D.E. should have been ordered months ahead of time or at least the sub should have know he needed it!
Snip the upper flange, let it in on itself and let's go, time is money! its not your problem! everything is gonna be beautiful....
Seriously tho, I think you are overthinking this. I know you want a nice job, but what you do to the top flange, noone will ever see its gonna be buried under the roofing .snip the vert as minimal as you can so it will bend, you mess with it too much and it'll get UGLY!
Edited 3/28/2004 12:42 am ET by fitzcarpenter
What fitz said. If you relief cut the verticle, the horizontal will follow the curve. I've done this many times. By the way, what type of roofing is going on these curves?
I think I mentioned in my first post that this is a retrofit - it was done maybe tenyears ago and not very well. it has a six inch cedar fascia with a 3/8x2 cedar strip at the top to hide the ugliness and serve as drip edge, but it was applied a bit proud of the roof plane, making things worse; and then no sealant was ever applied, so you can imagine how it looks - ugly but not rotten yet. it's roofed with three tabs...so fastening wouldn't be easy...plywood's shy of the fascia plane...endless curved roofs...so this is why I'm currently leaning towards sanding it a little, sealing it with a waterproofing stain, and slobbing the top with polyurethane caulk. I would have to relieve the front edge of the 3/8 strip, or replace it. then at reroofing time it could be dripedged better if need be...thanks for your input - fitz too - and I'm still listening...