Can the element in a electric dryer gradually go out? My 15 year-old Kenmore takes longer and longer to dry a load of towels. The screen and vent are clear, and it blows strong, but just doesn’t get as hot as it used to.
Doesn’t look like a big deal to replace, but I wonder if it could be something else.
Any suggestions or volt/ohm readings at the switch that I should look for.
Thanks
Replies
I can't answer the question about changing the element.
Have you checked to see if the exhaust duct-work is clogged? or cleaned it recently?
My grandmother had a similiar problem was all ready to and buy a new dryer, I ended up cleaning out the duct work and it made a huge difference...
Usually this indicates that the exhaust duct is clogged. Occasionally, though, it's due to clogs inside the unit. Check your exhaust duct from one end to the other to make sure it's clear (no more than 1/8" or so buildup anywhere). Also, remove the back (in some cases front or side) of the dryer and clean it out. Trace the route the air follows and make sure it's all clear.
The thermostat could theoretically go bad slowly, though I've never seen it happen.
Another thing that can happen is for the connection between dryer and outlet to go bad, or a bad connection somewhere up the line on the 240V system. Everything can seem to work but the heater simply doesn't get the voltage it should. Suspect this if your lights seem to flicker a lot, especially when you start up the dryer. (You KNOW you've got a problem if you start up the dryer and some lights actually get brighter.)
Can the element in a electric dryer gradually go out? My 15 year-old Kenmore
Yes, but it does take the near the 15 years you reference. Plugged airflow as others have said is more probable, but you checked that.
Had a Kenmore 3.8 kW dryer bought new in 1967 (never have ever bought a new one since, get ones from garage sales for $20)
Anyway, the dryer drew 16 amps when new.
When we 'retired' it, it drew less than 3200 watts, after about 30 years (only13.3A). DW noticed a definite lenthening of drying times.
As to what to check, check the amp draw vs the rated at the rated voltage, you will likely see that the load has dropped.
Running red hot a few hours a week does slowly oxidixe the NiCr resistance element, resistance thus increases, and power draw drops.
Ours had also 'burnt out' the element twice (both times at bend, where there was less airflow hence the element was hotter there) and brazed it back together.
which outbuilding did you retire it to ?
carpenter in transition
which outbuilding did you retire it to
Not retired yet. Still pulling down the $$ at big aerospace place. Still just DW and I in 5300 sq ft, but about 60% is shop or quilting or such or grandkids places/stayover bedrooms.
However, one grandson has said (when 6 YO, but in all seriousness) that he would live in the house if Grandma died first and I could live in the barn - probably would work, a few thousand only in improvements and would make a good single old guy's place <G>
man ur good.... brazed it back together... wow another way to save $20... LOL
one i didn't know you could do that... sounds like something i'd try not as much to save the $20 but to be able to put it right back together vs have'n to go part hunting...
last dryer... the safety cut outs kept going bad... i just by passed them... maybe not smart... but i sure looked good when it was working again in 10 min
p
brazed it back together
Yep, the not having to go to the store is the best part.
An even better braze trick is when an oven heating element goes out. The failure is almost always at or near the plug-in terminal.
Our whirlpool wall oven is now 35 years old, it burnt out 2 calrod elements in the first 5 years, for the 3rd element I threw away the plug in sockets, brazed a 15" long piece of nickel plated teflon insulated pigtail wires to the spade lugs -- same element has been going strong now for close to 30 years....
i have a new hero ....
p
I brazed a pork roast once -- does that count?
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
And I was married to a brazen hussy.
Yeh... That'll work.
depends... did you kill the pig bare-handed with a tooth pic..
If so, then yes
94076.23 in reply to 94076.22
i have a new hero
When I told DW we would be meeting some Breaktime folks in Memphis in October, I told her one* is a guy who actually does have more "strategic reserves" than I do; professional warehouses vs. simple sheds. I didn't tell her you probably have had more 350's in the back than I have also?
Received kidna decipherable comments right off, but DW does want to meet your wife to compare notes on "what we have to put up with" <G>
* maybe 2, we do have friends in IL who bought an old 100,000 sq ft green bean cannery to house his/her collections (and his insulation inventory, he's an insulation contractor)
it's all inventory....
guy came over the other day... he knew i had a dz302 in the warehouse but he didn't know i knew he knew... was kinda funny watch'n him look without "looking like he was looking"
hope you guys make it with time to take the "tour"....
btw i moved out of my parents house... maybe 20yrs ago... and they still ask "when are you going to come get your junk" pop seems to forget it was me that built the 24x30 ft garage... seems all the tools i left are never an issue... it's the motorcycles and motors... at least they are lined up on rolling motor stands tucked under the bench... yep might just have some type problem... but you might understand
p
sounds like restricted exhaust air flow....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Besides the blocked exit.
You may have two elements and only one has burnt. easy to replace. Most shops that will sell you the element will give you some tips on how to change it.
Most important tip is to stretch the element into place before you heat it up for the first time.
It can be a lot of things.Assuming it is not computerized. Inside (somewhere) there usually several round (quarter sized) thermostats and these are rated at different temps. If you are on regular dry which is usually the hottest, the knob which you turned activates that circuit and there fore that T stat. Let's say that T stat is 155F, so when the temp inside get to 155F the elements shut off until it cools down then activates it again, over and over again. If the fan isn't working properly or the ductwork is plugged the hot air can't be removed fast enough so the temp rises fast and shuts of the T stat faster than normal (real fast in fact). What you get is the clothes take longer to dry and because the air inside isn't circulated fast enough the clothes are usually a lot cooler to touch.
You could have a T stat that is bad and shutting off too soon.Try another cycle, perma or delicate and see if those cycles work according to plan.
You could have a blower fan where all the vanes are gone. (very common if some loose change got caught in it) The fan sounds good but ain't.
Vent clogged.
There was one company that made a real disaster of a dryer and those could heat on half an element. They weren't designed to do that nor were they designed to catch fire because of that feature.
Outside flapper not opening.
roger
I changed a heating element in an electric dryer several years ago.
The new element cost $30
It took 15-20 minutes and was easy to do.
Good luck !
^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
When I changed the one in our Maytag it probably took an hour and a half, mostly spent installing the new wire in the old frame.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Maytag appliances are not supposed to break down.Remember the commercials with the maytag repairman as the "loneliest guy in town" because he had nothing to do.http://www.tvacres.com/admascots_maytag.htm^^^^^^
a Smith & Wesson beats four Aces
Well, the washer and dryer are 31 years old & still running. A little creaky, but then so am I vs 31 years ago.In fact, that's a big reason why Maytag had financial problems -- they were their own worst competition.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
My money is on a plugged exhaust line.
Try this experiment.
Before suspecting a dryer problem, consider the following:
1. Is it possble that you're overloading the washer? Washers and dryers are usually purchased in pairs that tend to compliment each other's size. If the washer is being asked to do more than designed, then the dryer probably is too.
2. Is the spin cycle working properly? Is the washer draining properly? Noticed any problems with the lid switch lately?
Try running your next wash load through an extra spin cycle before putting them in the dryer. If it makes a significant difference, you may not have a dryer problem at all.
New knowledge is priceless.
Used knowledge is even more valuable.
Yeah, or his water is too wet. We hadda start using the drier water when we got the new machines.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"If you want something you've never had, do something you've never done"
Yeah, the new concentrated stuff.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Yes it can. How ever it is more likely that it is the therostat is going. The temp. in a dryer is not constant it kicks on and off much like your furnace does. It best not to mess with this stuff yourself. Pay a repair man 40-60 bucks to do it. Believe me it is worth it.
Dave
I fired up the dryer, and measured the outflow from the duct w/o the flapper vent. Then I pulled the unit out and disconnected the duct from the dryer, and felt that velocity. Due to my extraordinary memory and sensory sensitivity, I concluded that the "drop" was 41.678% from the output to the outside duct opening.
Well, I crawled under the house today and checked out the duct. It's about 14' long, and there was a big crushed area right by one of the piers. Looks like the last time it was leveled, one of the guys laid on it and didn't "fluff it" up again. So I pulled it out, and replaced it with some more flex duct. Did the same test, and I got a 37.666% increase in velocity and temperature at the duct end.
Warsh day isin't till Monday, so I can't tell what she'll do then.
What soup do ya'll like on warsh day, or is it rice'n' beans?
Note that flex duct should not generally be used for dryer vents, and especially not the plastic stuff. Rigid (if you can call it that) aluminum is the way to go.Flex collects lint too quickly, and the plastic stuff is too quick to burn. It's not unusual for fires to start in the plastic dryer vents.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Yeah, right. I got to go through the floor, miss a AC duct, WL, got through the belly wrap, make a 90, run 10' to the skirting, elevate 1' to the outlet.
The foil flex duct better work, or I'm goin' back to the damn clothes line...
You should at the very least install rigid duct in the straight runs.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
around me anything from the wall inlet to the exterior has to be run in ridgid smooth wall pipe. Not sure if that is a local thing or a part of the IBC.
As convulted as Tom's set up sounds with all those twist and bends and flex pipe I'm not surprised he has trouble drying..
Worked fine for the last 14 years, then it got crushed and started a blockage. The breeze from the vent now will blow grass 8' away.
Flex-foil is da bomb...
You'd probably increase airflow 30% by eliminating the flex.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
in-line duct boost? Is there such a thing for a dryer vent?
Ed
Yep.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I had one like that once. If I remember right, there were two elements, one off each leg of the 220, explaining why it would make make heat, but not enough.
That was about fifteen years ago, on a machine that was already 10-15 years old
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