Replies

1. 
   daniel | Feb 01, 1999 03:08am | #1

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   Try Plbg.com http://www.plbg.com

2. 
   Walter_R | Feb 01, 1999 08:47pm | #2

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   The 90 degree elbow idea is what I have and works fine. I use a short alum. flex between the dryer and connection. If possible you might want to reconsider use of flexible alum. for the long run in your chase. Many sources are recommending using regular sheet metal/aluminum ducts with taped joints (no sheet metal screws). Any irregularity (screw tip, ridge in flex aluminum) is a potential catch/build-up point for lint. Also make sure your connections follow the air-flow. I.E. crimped end is on the outflow end. Lint filters in dryers DO NOT stop all lint.

1. 
   Kara_K | Feb 05, 1999 09:13pm | #3

   *I'm a home-owner & I just stumbled accross this. I'm curious about directing my dryer vent back into the basement. It seems such a waste of hot air to pump it outside - I have an unfinished walk-out basement which is very cold in the winter - even with insulation. What do I need to do to re-route the dryer vent & also to filter the air coming back into the room? Thanks for the help!

3. 
   Guest_ | Feb 05, 1999 11:59pm | #4

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   This would probably not be a terribly good idea, since all that exhaust air, although warm, is also loaded with moisture. Basically, all the moisture your dryer is evaporating from the soaking clothes would be pumped into the inside of your house, potentially causing all kinds of mildew & moisture problems. I would think the only way to capture this "wasted" heat would be to pass the airflow through some kind of heat exchange. Unfortunately, a heat exchange unit would probably impede the airflow significantly (I won't go into the design of heat exchanges), which would promote the trapping of lint.

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   Guest_ | Feb 06, 1999 12:41am | #5

   *Kara, I agree with the Swede. Your Dryer exhaust (if gas) also contains a lot of CO2 which can kill you. Now I know its a modest amount, but I just wouldn't want the stuff in my house. It really needs to go outside. Good Luck!

4. 
   Bruce_M | Feb 06, 1999 01:25am | #6

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   Hi Kara
   It does seem like such a waste to eject warm air to the outdoors when it is so cold outside...doesn't it

   The post below that warns against putting lots of moisture in your house may be valid...but whether this is a problem or not in your house depends upon the relative humidity inside your house. Indeed, many people install humidifiers on their forced air gas central furnaces to do exactly that...put moisture into their house air so that it 'feels' warmer. You don't mention what part of the country you are in, but if you have cold and dry winters, ejecting warm moist air into your house may not be such a bad idea. If your relative humidity is already high, then you will run the risk of having excess moisture in your house that will tend to condense onto cool surfaces, like walls, windows, etc A way to test this is to run your vent into your house and watch your windows (usually the coolest spot in your house). If they start to cloud up, you have too much humidity. Also, put a woman's nylon over the end of the dryer outlet to catch lint....else it will get all over everything :-(

   The post below warning of the danger of CO2 is well founded if you have a gas dryer. However, if you have an electric dryer, the amound of CO2 and CO (carbon monoxide) you create is negligable.

   Best

   Bruce M

5. 
   Guest_ | Feb 06, 1999 01:25am | #7

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   When terminating a 4" dryer vent tube (aluminum flex) to the inside of the home, what type of permanent connection do you folks install for the permanent interior fitting? In other words, I will run the flex through a drywalled chase, and would like to have the homeowner connect the usually piece of crap vinyl flex that they all use to a solid piece of PVC or 4" metal pipe, but I can not find anything pre-manufactured, and am having to construct it on the job site. Am considering just putting in a 90 degree metal elbow, strapping it down with metal plumbers tape, and putting it in a drywall box, leaving about 3-4" exposed for the homeowner to connect. Any ideas?