Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 17, 2000 04:13am | #1

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   Zack,

   I'm jealous, redwood is like gold here in La. The last 2x6x8 I got for a glass block window cost $50.

   Build a solar kiln. Try http://www.mindspring.com/~gashmore/html/solar_kiln.html

   KK

1. 
   Guest_ | May 17, 2000 07:59pm | #2

   *Zack,If you type "log homes" into Ask Jeeves (www.aj.com) you get a ton of sites. Maybe you can e-mail or call them with your questions. Sounds like a cool project.

2. 
   jimR | May 18, 2000 01:28pm | #3

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   I'm going to do a similar project, only with Red Pine. From what info I've gathered, I can tell you it takes about 12-18 months for drying, depending on the average rel. humidity where you live. I too am wondering what type of structure to dry them in. I guess just need to keep them dry and off the ground.

   Also, it is best to cut them in the late fall or winter when the sap is down and the tree is basically dormant. That'll cut your drying time a bit and lesson cracking.

   If you get anymore info, would you please pass it on to me or post the link here? I'll do the same.
   Thanks.

3. 
   Guest_ | May 19, 2000 02:03am | #4

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   Zack,

   You can work it green, joints will open up but if you intend to air dry it, it will happen anyway, since you can't wait ten years to work it. So, either build a drier like KK said, or just live with checks and gaps. Or take it to a kiln.

   MD

1. 
   Guest_ | May 19, 2000 11:34am | #5

   *There is a small outfit in Laytonville, Mendocino, a family owned lumbermill that works with small lot timber. They are friendly enough and maybe they can help you. I was hoping to remember their name by the time I finished this note..oh well. Call Long Valley Lumber in Laytonville and they'll give it to you. I hope you're talking second growth trees. The old growth look much better as trees than houses.

4. 
   zack_k | May 24, 2000 04:47am | #6

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   thanks for the info on the kiln.It looks interesting and doable and if I ever get around to making some lumber it would be a good starting point.As far as logs go I've been told that kiln drying logs is not recommended, I'm hoping to get a copy of the article soon and will post it. Thanks alot

1. 
   zack_k | May 24, 2000 04:54am | #7

   *I just wanted to say thanks for the response. Keep an eye on this site as I am starting to get some good leads on info ( I think )I'll post them when I get it, probably a week or two. Thanks

1. 
   zack | Jun 09, 2000 05:27am | #8

   *"Barkjuice" passed on this very informative site of the Canadian/American Logbuilders Ass'n http://www.logassociation.org

5. 
   Guest_ | Jun 29, 2000 04:58am | #9

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   Have you read Tedd Benson's book? good source of information on exactly what you're talking about. Also Jack Soborn has a wonderfull few chapters on dealing with green wood in his book Build A Classic Timber-framed House. If you have access to a great library try to get a copy of the Timber Construction Manual by the American Insitute of Timber Construction published by John Wiley & Sons New York, New York But .. CAUTION,unless you enjoy technical manuals it is the dullest dry boring book to read. Don't waste the money on it unless you need to convince someone what you're doing is correct (like a building inspector) or in my case, Myself. For what it's worth I think if you start building you can protect the wood better then stuck in a pile someplace waiting to dry or something.... try http://www.nxi.com/wwwjoinersquarterly/

1. 
   Guest_ | Jun 29, 2000 05:02am | #10

   *Teo, based on the sizes He is talking about they aren't old growth if they were it is the worst growing trees in history.

6. 
   Zack_Klarich | Jul 26, 2000 04:31am | #11

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   another book that I came upon is " Complete guide to building log cabins" by Burch. Good info including formulas for preservatives and how to use them

7. 
   Zack_Klarich | Jul 26, 2000 04:31am | #12

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   I am clearing a site for a small house among the redwoods of N. California.

   I want to use the logs debarked and unmilled in post and beam construction both interior and exterior. I can handle the construction details but have not been able to get any good info on drying the logs and how to keep the sapwood from rotting. These logs once the bark is off (peels off very easy in the spring) are between 10"to 14" in dia. with only 3"-4" of heartwood,50'-70' high with at least the first 25' straight with few branches.

   This is what I know or think I know and what I need info on:

   I'm planning to store the peeled logs off the ground in a shaded open air shed but is this enough to keep the bugs and rot away? I've been told that once bugs get into the sapwood it's trouble. I've also been told to wash the freshly peeled logs with soap and water to clean of the fresh nutrients of the sap(makes sense to me?)

   Any magic chemicals for this problem?

   How long to air dry before I can use? I don't have a year for each inch, how wet can they be for mortise and tenon and dovetail etc. joinery?

   Winters are very rainy and moist, summers hot. I know that I will have to keep the posts well off the ground but I'm very concerned (maybe too much) about the sapwood rotting in a few years.

   Does any one have any experience with redwood logs out there??

   Any and all info including books or other web sites would be very much appreciated!