Replies

1. 
   mbdyer | Apr 28, 2006 01:36am | #1

   Stack the slabs out of the sunlight but sticker them to let the air move (up on small sticks in between each slab at least 1 1/2" thick). Melt some paraffin wax and slather it over the endgrain, this will reduce checking. Keep the stack dry but prevent storing in a cool dark place. This may entice spalting which will introduce possible mycotoxins into the wood making the sawdust a hazard.

1. 
   antlerchaser | Apr 28, 2006 04:07am | #2

   THANKS !  that helps.  If I wax both sides will I be able to put a finish on it later ?

1. 
   Sphere | Apr 28, 2006 04:15am | #3

   Are you referring to cross slices? If so, they WILL check radially no matter what you do. If you mean boards with face grain, use only the same wood as stickers, else you'll have sticker stain and in Ash, it can get quite deep.

   The only method I am sure of for crosscut slabs ( like clock faces from the '70's) is Poly-ethylene- Glycol or PEG . Submersion is the way or treat and bag it in a hefty bag with sawdust from the same tree. SLOW SLOW drying is the answer.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Damm, I miss that stuff

1. 
   antlerchaser | Apr 28, 2006 04:22am | #4

   They are cross sliced but at an angle .  I plan on using them for my taxidermy as well as some log home decore.  I have glycol , you say to submerge them into it then bag them ?  for how long ?

1. 
   Sphere | Apr 28, 2006 04:31am | #5

   Ok, we are on the same page.

   I THINK it is two weeks at saturation in PEG ( guessing you are at roughly 1.5" thick, then air dry for 2 weeks )  But for final finishing I'd use a moisture meter and shoot for 10% or 12% ...however long it takes.

   Head over to KNOTS for a more educated response than I can give you, it has been decades since I messed with that process.

   Best of luck.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Damm, I miss that stuff

2. 
   antlerchaser | Apr 28, 2006 04:39am | #6

   Thanks alot , I will go for it and report my results. I think I need a heck of a lot more PEG however.

3. 
   Sphere | Apr 28, 2006 04:53am | #7

   Yes. Ash is ring porus, lotsa air in the cellular cavities. Altho tighter than red oak, it will take a 55 gallon drum to submerge, and IIRC PEG is mixed with H20 for the dunk.

   Heating the mix is also something I recall.

   Probly antifeeze would do the same thing..but not the AF with UV dye for leak detection, that'd glow in a black light room, and if Bullwinkle on a glowing plaque don't mess up yer head, I don't know what would.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Damm, I miss that stuff

4. 
   antlerchaser | Apr 28, 2006 05:02am | #8

    IIRC PEG is mixed with H20 for the dunk. ?  please elaborate , what ratios ?

5. 
   Sphere | Apr 28, 2006 05:13am | #9

   I'd say 50/50 like in a car's system? Just a guess.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Damm, I miss that stuff

6. 
   antlerchaser | Apr 28, 2006 05:21am | #10

   Okay .  I have the cart ahead of the horse here as I have them cut and I should have thought about all of this earlier. Oh well.

7. 
   Sphere | Apr 28, 2006 05:26am | #11

   get em in a bag of sawdust now, you can slow the checking.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Damm, I miss that stuff

8. 
   splintergroupie | Apr 28, 2006 05:59am | #12

   The only time i tried this PEG procedure the bark fell off the 'cookies', so you might have to tack it back on with brads. The oblique slabs won't necessarily split like a cross-cut cookie will, and you might be able to live with some cracking for your application. The plastic bag trick may be all you need, and it's a lot less trouble, although it can take a few weeks, depending on thickness of your slabs.  

   You are somewhat limited re finishing materials when you use PEG. Here is a link to some stuff from Rockler, which they say is non-toxic. If you use automotive anti-freeze, it is extremely toxic to animals, causing liver failure in days, so be very careful of it, as they love the sweet taste. On that PEG link, look under the photo at the technical data link and click it (it's a pdf file) for a wealth of information on how to treat, sand, finish your wood.  

   Edited 4/27/2006 11:00 pm ET by splintergroupie

9. 
   Sphere | Apr 28, 2006 06:02am | #13

   Thanks for getting me offa the hotplate there...I uz just going from old past life memories(G).

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   Damm, I miss that stuff

10. 
    antlerchaser | Apr 28, 2006 07:03am | #14

    I did a search on the subject of PEG conditioning of green wood and you are both correct.  I am concerned about the bark falling off however . . . . Hmmmm.  I hav it stored right now , stacked on one another just as it came from the tree. I would think that would slow down the drying quite a bit.