was looking at this link about drylock in another thread:
http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=120373.23&redirCnt=1
and got me thinking about VB in basement scenario. I’ve read so much about VB in basements and I feel more confused than ever.
Anyway, would applying drylock to the inside of a basement foundation wall be a good idea and then to insulate over top of that within the studawall?
I know putting VB Poly against the foundation leaves oppurtunity for condensation to become trapped inbetween the VB and wall. But if the wall itself is sealed??
I know also in new construction we are dealing with damproofing and sometimes waterproofing of the outside of the foudnation. Older homes, often are lacking in this area especially the really old homes.
I don’t know what to think sometimes about this.
Replies
Greetings alrightythen,
This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again which will increase it's viewing.
Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.
Cheers
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Hi alrightythen,
would applying drylock to the inside of a basement foundation wall be a good idea and then to insulate over top of that within the studawall
I simply believe in stopping water "before" it enters "any" area of the house which includes foundation/basement walls. Doing so can be quite labor intensive but the overall costs are reasonable and well worth all the effort.
I helped a buddy a couple of years back. He kept having leaks regularly in his house built in 1958.
He rented a mini excavator that had a bucket that slid to either side which allowed real close digging next to the foundation. Friday night he and one friend dug out one half of the front of the house, down 8 ft. and out far enough not to need bracing.
Next morning 4 more of us showed up to scrub the walls, roll on fresh water seal, drop in new drainage tile, gravel, then a dimpled membrane down the wall and half way over the drainage field. By then they had the over side uncovered and we started over there while he back filled the first half. By 6pm we were done. Hasn't leaked since "and" he has yet to need to run a dehumidifier.
Pedro the Mule - A little $ and some real good friends
I did a ton of research on this issue before doing our basement. We have an old house so there was no real way to waterproof the basement with any guarantee.
So, the solution was to fix all outdoor issues first...we re-graded the landscape, removed the cocrete patio (that sloped TOWARDS the house) and fixed all the gutters.
After a couple of springs of snow melt and heavy rains, we felt confident that we had fixed the major water issues.
however, that still left standard moisture from the ground/humidity.
In the end, I went with the Building Science Corp's method:
- EPS foam (r-10 per code for our city)
- Steel studs (separated from concrete floor with XPS or rubber membrane)
- Paperless sheetrock (the fiberglass stuff)
The pros are that this makes for a breathable wall. It's built to assume water moisture will get in from either direction and needs to dry to either direction. Plus, it was fairly easy to haul the EPS and Steel Studs down into the basement (though the paperless sheetrock is heavy)
The cons are that I had to spend a good deal of research and documentation to convince our local code enforcers that this was the better method than the established plastic + fiberglass that had been used for decades. The other con is that fiberglass sheetrock is ITCHY!
It's been 2 years and so far so good.
One other 'bonus' was that we needed Radon remediation. Cost-wise that kind of sucked, but the method they used (pvc pipes drilled into slab, vented through roof via fan) supposedly sucks a lot of the ground moisture out further helping with summer humidity issues.