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Drywall blocking?

DoRight | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 15, 2016 03:14am

I have a pile of 5/8 OSB scraps leftover.  Is there any reason I should be fearful to use these scraps for drywall blocking?  Would there be a potential for more screw poping than lumber?  Or is it too thin?

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Replies

  1. oldhand | Oct 15, 2016 08:03pm | #1

    broad subject....

    There are places, [situations], you could use osb. The term d wall blocking covers a lot.  In general though I'd say no. 

    1. DoRight | Oct 15, 2016 08:09pm | #2

      why ?

      why?  Too thin?  Won't hold screws? 

      I used one piece inside of a hvac chase with the business side in a corner of a closet.  No one will care much if teh screws pop.  But afterwards I wondered if I should proceed elsewhere.

      Seems like a good idea, as at this point I have no scrap 2x4s around and will need to buy material.

      Any thoughts?.

  2. User avater
    Mike_Mahan | Oct 15, 2016 09:56pm | #3

    Drywall blocking?

    What do you mean by 'drywall blocking'?

    1. DoRight | Oct 16, 2016 03:01pm | #4

      What do I mean?

      blocking such as where to walls come together.  I did much of my own framing and was careful to had a surface to screw the drywall too.  However, I ended up hiring some framers to stack my roof and to frame several second floor walls.  Teh design is complicated and perhaps unusal and the framers missed a number of these details.  I need to go back and fix teh issue myself (that is another story as to way the framers will not come back, but that is not germain to the question).

      Can I use 5/8 OSB to screw drywall sheets into. (corners and or wall to ceiling transitions)

      1. User avater
        Mike_Mahan | Oct 16, 2016 04:17pm | #5

        You could use the osb.

        Typically dry wall backing is 2x material nailed to the top plate where the plate runs parallel to the joists and hung out to catch the edge of the drywall.  You don't need any where the joists are perpendicular to the drywall. Installing backing after everything is framed is a pain in the butt. You could use 5/8 osb but it's still a pain. I'd use Simpson DS drywall stops. At the ceiling they keep the lids from being forced up beyond the top plate. Once the wall board is in place the edges of the lids are not coming down. They can also be used at inside corners where backing for the edge is unavailable. 

        File format
        1. DoRight | Oct 16, 2016 07:08pm | #6

          yes, typically

          Yes it is typically 2 by material.  I would guess, largely because that is what a framer has available in scrap at teh time he is SUPPOOSED to by adding the backing.  Well, I think my framer thinks he under bid my job and therefore decided he did not owe me a finished job.  So I am left to finish the job myself and I have alot of 5/8 OSB which would be a lot easier to nail in in some places (top of top plates ... as you mention .. hard to nail once the ceiling is framed) and again I have the material.  But it it will not hold screws tehn I need another approach ... either the traditional 2 by stock or the product you mention.  I will check it out.

  3. User avater
    user-2409187 | Oct 19, 2016 07:57am | #7

    OSB v 2x blocking

    1/2" OSB is fine if it's only purpose is to provide a ledge to which to fasten drywall WITH SCREWS; for instance, where a partition runs parallel with the trusses. 2x material is commonly used for structural purposes; for other than than just drywall fastening. Sometimes I use drywall clips (metal), but prefer continuous backing.

    I use OSB, "green mud" and screws to make drywall butt joints INSIDE of stud bays. Using a simple wood clamp I am able to make beveled drywall butt joints. My taped walls are perfectly flat, and joints don't show over time. 

    Mel froscarpentry.com

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