What methods do you guys use to keep the dust down when sanding drywall?
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Sub it out.
Sorry. Use Hepa filters on vacs and use vacs on all sanders. Close off area as much as possible. Wipe down surfaces after each sanding. Step-off pads at the exit of the work zone. Fan installed in window (if available) pointed in the exhaust direction. I'm sure others will have more.
Thanks nick.What sander do you use on drywall?
I just bought the PC drywall sander, but haven't used it yet. I've been using a Bosch 6" ROS with vac attachment, but it is dying a slow death, and a replacement is $350, so I thought I'd shell out another $100 for the PC. I use a lot of sponge sanders, preferring them over screens, the screens leave ridges that need to be sanded with regular sandpaper.
Those that do tons of drywall will just tell you to practise the 'art' until you don't need to sand. I guess I still have a lot of practising to do.
BTW, there is also a sponge method, but I never mastered that either, not that I've given it much of a chance.
Hasta la pizza, baby.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Im a carpenter/remodeler and pretty good at mudwork,but still find the need to sand.I dont like using a wet sponge. I dont think it works well.
>>I dont like using a wet sponge. I dont think it works well.
you're half right, a sanding sponge does'nt work well if you need to sand a large area fast. If you are doing a small area in a finished/furnished home there is no other choice. I can get as good as a sandpaper finish with a lot of extra work and no dust
are you talking about wet sanding? If so ,is there a special sponge for that?
Yeah, there is a drywall sanding sponge. It has a soft scotchbrite texture on one side and regular coarse sponge on the other.
They are not easy to use, takes a little practice.
I think the trick is to moisten the very surface of the compound then try to "melt" the feathered edge, actually trying to use the melted edge to feather outward. Does that make sense?
If I can sell a roller job of drywall mud mixed with vinyl primer , I don't have to sand. A roller will then work the whole finish together including small edges and make it all one in the wall.
A wipedown texture doesn't require sanding underneath it if its tight finishing . You knew that .
be conditional
Tim Mooney
Edited 1/13/2005 3:43 am ET by TIMMOONEY52
Recently I picked up a screen holder and a small shop vac..all for lesss than 50 Washingtons at Lowes..had a SMALL job..it worked real well..really well.
I would not want to do an entire house of new rock with it..but for a single cieling in a remodel situation..it kicked azz.
This room had a BIG AZZ TV, wide plank floors, and drapery hung..nary a spec of dust escaped the little hand held doo-dad. Th HO's were amazed.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Watch out for the edges, it's really fast out there...
Mike,
If this is a big job, be prepared to have dust around for at least a week, This means you clean everyday also. Sorry to tell you this.
Btw, I use a small fine block sander on the last coat. Go slow and you get a great job. But you get a lot of dust.
We use to sand very very lite and fast on the second coat in order for the third and final coat to be EZ and smooth.Sanding the second coat was Ez (only 6") and fast.
Then we prime and touch-up the walls with mud (if and where needed )with out any additional sanding.And yes, you can always sand the room after the primer (if needed) but I think 80-90% of sanding is unnecessary.
EZ Dino