How many 64ths” should the facehead of a drywall screw be buried in the paper facing of sheetrock for optimum performance of holding and mudding?
…sitting in his nowhereland.
How many 64ths” should the facehead of a drywall screw be buried in the paper facing of sheetrock for optimum performance of holding and mudding?
…sitting in his nowhereland.
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Replies
Yes
Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Roar!...sitting in his nowhereland.
You really aren't serious...are you? Do you plan to measure every screw? Who would have time to measure even 10% of the screws? Or take the time to sloooowly turn the screw to reach the desired depth? And if you go too deep...do you back it out? Change 'screw' to 'nail'...what do you do then? Just sink the screw far enoiugh to clear the mud knife.
Actually, A while back I jokingly threw this question at a rather compulsively detailed contractor friend and he replied in a serious vein. So that got me thinking about optimum performance to shoot for as a guide.
I don't carry a 1/64th" rule....sitting in his nowhereland.
I have 6" but don't use it as a rule.Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Well, in that case...your question can best be answered by those folks over at Knots...the ones who debate the required flatness of their workbenches and the frequency of adjustments. For those of you who may have missed the discussion...it was very lively, with some posters actually being concerned about minute fractions of an inch out of flat.
First off, you're using a scale not a rule! ;-) One of the things I did learn from my father.
As for screw depth. It should be anywhere from below the paper surface to before the point of breaking through the paper. Anywere in between is fine--that is if you are serious. Don't buy in to 128ths rule, everyone one knows real carpenters work with thousanths, not fractions. Every carpenter also sells bridges, interested?
Don
Everyone that knows me knows I am never anything but serious.
And I never lie either....sitting in his nowhereland.
oh, yeah, I almost forgot, there's a new screw.... changes color when it's driven in the right depth, I think they are called "chameleans"
True story...my BIL liked practical jokes, and he was crazy enough that sometimes when he said something that was halfway true, you couldn't tell if he knew what he was talking about. Anyway, the first year they were married, his very new wife was fretting over how to fix the Thanksgiving turkey. He told her his mother always par-boiled it first, then baked (roasted?) it in the oven. She almost did that, but called her mother at the last minute to see if he was right.
Women, they always think they know when you're lying but they can't ever tell when you're telling the truth!.
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
7/128ths, but don't forget to leave every tenth screw proud 5/126ths. It drives the tapers nutz.
I knew someone was going to pull the 128ths card....sitting in his nowhereland.
Ya, now I am waiting for someone to tell me "no, it is 9/128ths".
Far too many people get detailed out, and would be better off with a roar or two. Keep up the good work.
Don't forget that they have to be perfectly spaced too! That way when you get a crappy mud job there is at least a nice pattern showing through.
Women and men of wit are dangerous tools,
And ever fatal to admiring fools.
- John Wilmot second Earl of Rochester
here's a little trade secret......... shhhhhhhhhh.....
use only a milwaukee screwgun, and there's a dial on the nozzle that set's the screw to a predeter,ined depth, set the dial to 10 pricons,that is the depth for a number "4" finish,( not seeing the screws from 150' away, in scattered sunlight). any depeeper and the screw might go through the board, also you need to check the moisture content of the stud to estimate how much it will shrink, if your using a southern swamp pine 2buh4, that will shrink a little differantly than a mexican saguro cactiloni 2buhsix lol.....lllllooooollllllllllll
Milwaukee's fine, but what if I have a Yen to use a Makita? Do I then measure in millimeters?
you don't use it as a rule
or
you don't use it, as a rule
?
;-)
m
If your tape meas. is stiff enough, you can use it as a 'rule'. I have a 4ft and a 6ft out in the van, which is where I usually store them, as a rule. Ruling out having an 8ft rule, I usually use the 6ft rule for the semi-long stuff. More often than not though, I end up using the old trusty 4ft rule, which, by the way, rules.
Ken Hill
[:o)
Excuse me sir, but there's a rule against changing the subject.
Not that anyone follows it, as a rule..
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
Someone say a Ruler?.........like Sadam Hussein?
jocobe
Everyone knows that you don't use a ruler to measure that sort guy. A dipstick is called for.
"A dipstick is called for."
People call me a dipstick all the time. Does that mean I'm qualified for the job?Headline: Suicidal twin kills sister by mistake
He's a ruler with thumbscrews for his people but he's missing a screw or two himself, not that anyone would notice since he's all screwed up.
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
I am concerned that moisture may gather on the heads of the drywall screws and cause rust which will bleed out into the paint. Should I use those expensive green coated ones or just the regular silver galvanized ones?...sitting in his nowhereland.
Rez,
You must not be venting your screws.
If you don't, you need to use 303 stainless DWS.
Or Tar paper over the gypsum before taping.
hope this helps!
Mr TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
What??? You mean you're still using tar paper?!? Tyvex is a much better product. And don't believe those stories about metal gasses from the screws affecting the tyvex. Simply not true....sitting in his nowhereland.
Venting your screws....
Man..do I have a good reply to that......'cet this isn't the tavern.......
and I'd probably get kicked outta there too!
Damn..........
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Fine Carpentery.....While U Waite
wimp!Do not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Are you serious? If so, don't worry about rust.
Don
Of course he's serious.
this is a serious place where we discuss serious problems!
Haven't you ever seen rust bleed thru on exterior dry wall?
It is fast becoming the leading cause of callbacks in the homebuilding industry.
TDo not try this at home!
I am a trained professional!
Nope, as a rule, it's new problem to me, but then again, I wasn't aware that we've moved outside.
Don
Edited 12/28/2002 9:52:32 AM ET by Don C.
Stepping outside the character of this thread so I can be serious for a minute, Here on this coast, we get a lot of rust stains from regular screws on ceilings especially so we always use the galvanized screws to prevent it.
OK, you guys can have it back again, you little leg pullers, you!.
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius
Rules are to be broken, scales are to be crushed.Women and men of wit are dangerous tools,And ever fatal to admiring fools.
- John Wilmot second Earl of Rochester
Just glue the crap to the studs with PL400 and forget about the lousy screws. Besides, everyone knows that if you don't hang your drywall sheets on a line to air out at least 24 hours prior to hanging they will soon buckle.
24 hours???? code is 12 here.
of course. Now I remember why they call it drywall. Sometimes these things slip my mind....sitting in his nowhereland.
rez, you're too young to have a slippery mind..
Excellence is its own reward!
"The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.
The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."
--Marcus Aurelius