I removed all the plaster and wood lathe from my walls. I did not remove the ceilings.
I’m going to be replacing the walls now with drywall. However, from the wall to the edge of the ceiling plaster I have approx 1″.
If I hang drywall on the walls I will have a good 1/2″ + between it and the ceiling plaster. What recomendations would you drywall experts have for a solution???
—————————————————————————–
WWPD
These defensive details give homes a better chances of surviving wildfires.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
not a drywall expert, and I'm sure you already considered it, but what about crown moulding?
BTW, I don't know what shape the ceiling is in, but make sure it's still secure, I have seen ceilings where the plaster came down in basically one large sheet. Someone I know was taking one down, stuck a hammer claw in it, pulled, and about 80 square feet of paster crashed to the floor.
Edited 6/26/2006 10:44 am ET by xosder11
Crown is not an option. Neither my wife or I are fond of crown.
I hope the ceiling is secure. I minimized any damage or strain or tugging etc to it while demo'ing the walls. I do not notice any sags, or cracks etc that weren't already there.
Thanks!-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
WWPD
I also suspect that the jambs on any windows or doors or j boxes will not line up when you put up drywall. They were used as grounds for the plaster.
BTW, you might want to try driving some drywall screws into your studs to see if the are really hard. Sometimes the sap cures and you end up with studs like stone. If so, you might want to look for some square drive drywall screws that are self tapping, if such a thing exists.
Otherwise, plan on predrilling, which for drywall is a real pain. Expect to have to use 3 people to hang.
what about self-drilling drywall screws for structural steel studs?"I hate quotations. Tell me what you know" Ralph Waldo Emerson
Screws for metal generally have a fine thread, and you want a course thread with wood. And it really just depends on your studs. Maybe they are fine as is, though evening them out with metal studs is a good idea, as long as you can figure out a decent way to align the studs within the proper placement vis-s-vis the jambs.But better to find out the condition of the studs while it is just you and a screw gun, rather than when you are trying to hold a 12 ft piece of drywall and can't get the screws to sink properly because your studs are like stone.
but if your studs are like stone wouldn't fine thread be better anyway?"I hate quotations. Tell me what you know" Ralph Waldo Emerson
I'm not expert, but I doubt it. The wood may still shrink some, then the threads won't hold anymore.
what if the wood expanded..then the fine threads would hold better.
"I hate quotations. Tell me what you know" Ralph Waldo Emerson
Another thing that jsut came to mind, never done it but have seen it done, stack a couple of sheets of half inch or so drywall around the perimeter of the ceiling that come in about a foot or whatever looks right with the scale of the room, essentially creating a look almost like a very shallow tray ceiling.
How about filling the gap most of the way with setting type joint compound. When the gap is mostly full and the compound has set, tape the joints as you would a drywall corner. If the ceiling isn't textured.
Typcially you shove teh wall sheetrock up to teh ceilign and leave teh gap at teh bottom to be covered by your basemolding.
That was my first thought too, but I believe he is referring to a horizontal gap at the ceiling, not on the wall. In other words with the board all the way up there being 1/2" open. As in they plastered walls first then ceiling.
But I could be all wrong, would not be the first time.
Bob
Bob.
He needs to correct few problems the same time.
The corrective framing solves all the problems.
VTR
Or just re-plastering.
Bryan.
I made my own metal framing for corrective framing.
(Using regular metal studs)
D-Mix the new drywall for the "plaster look"
(3 guys, one day for a small house)
Take another look at my first post and the D-Mix again.
Come to the Fest.
See you there.
Vinny the roofer
Sorry, your fest is too far away for me, plus I have to travel a lot over the next two months. And I don't actually like to travel.But I'm sure the fest will be a blast!And I'm sure D-mix is a fine product/procedure, but it ain't plaster and won't be as hard as plaster.But then again, I haven't gotten the last bill from my plasters either. It could cause me to change my mind.They did however do a fantastic job of smoothing out the ceilings that I could not get anywhere near decent.
A 1/2" gap isn't too bad. You could do one of the following:
1) "Patch" the gap prior to drywalling. I'd use plaster or setting-type compound and just fill the gap level with the rest of the ceiling, making sure to use enough pressure to form keys through the lath. You might want to use a bonding agent to help reinforce the seam where the new meets the old.
2) Put up your DW and patch the gap after it's up, as above. Less desirable since there is less opportunity to form the keys.
3) Fir out the studs by using strips of 1/2" ply. That may be the best option if you have alignment issues with window/door frames, electrical boxes, etc. Use 1-5/8" screws to attache the DW.
You may want to consider using fiberglass tape instead of paper for this joint to further help prevent cracking between the old & new plaster.
Regarding the other lister's comments about hard studs -- he ain't kiddin'! Some of these old studs end up as hard as rock! When I am faced with this, I resort to using the impact driver with a dimpler bit instead of the drywall gun. A bit slower, and you bust a few screws, but it's not too bad in general.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
If I'm reading you correctly, you're essentially saying that the thickness of the sheetrock will be approx 1" less than the lath/plaster, at the ceiling. If this is the case, you'll have some major hassles with all of your door and window casings.
You should investigate what you're going to do with all of the trim around the doors and windows. You may find that you're going to have to shim the drywall out by a 1/2 or more anyway, to make the casings all sit properly.
The windows and doors will not be a problem. ALL the walls plaster is off.
I considered the shimming. I have done it in the past, just not on such a grand scale.
Thanks everyone so far for the options!!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
WWPD
This might be a time to look at the "Mooney Wall". Not only will you make your drywalling easier, but you can improve your insulation and sound deadening dramaticly.Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Even though you have removed all the plaster, double check the window frames and door frames to see if they will stick out past where the face of the drywall would end up. That's where the problem usually arises, and there isn't a really easy way to trim them down. you will usually see some kind of wood around the frames, which were plaster grounds on which they slid their tools to get the wall smooth for molding.
also, since they had a 3/4" buildup of plaster to work with, they didn't care if the studs were all in one plane like you would with drywall. studs could be quite uneven or different dimensions and it wouldn't show. when you try to press drywall on the wall you would see humps and bumps. If things are fairly flat, you can just install furring strips on the face of the studs and screw drywall to them. If you need to straighten them out, you can attach studs to the side of the existing ones and get as flat a wall as you want.
Hope this helps. Rich.
also, since they had a 3/4" buildup of plaster to work with, they didn't care if the studs were all in one plane like you would with drywall. studs could be quite uneven or different dimensions and it wouldn't show. when you try to press drywall on the wall you would see humps and bumps.
Oh boy have I notice that in some areas already!! Thanks for the reminder I will have to pay attention to that. Great stuff!!
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
WWPD
If the studs are really hard and you need to come up with 1/2", you can fir them out and take up any unevenness with shims. For the ceiling/wall joint and other corners, I use metal corner bead and it makes everything nice and straight. I did my place in about 2001 and the house was built by someone who, I'm convinced, was a moron. Nothing was straight, plumb, level or square. All of the corners were busted and filled with a thumbful of gook and it looked terrible. After the corner bead went in, it looks like new or better, after seeing some of the new houses in this area.
depending on location and nearby fixtures, I use 1/2" plywood. Sound proofs, easy to install, and great to put drywall on. However, Can be more $$, so you could cut strips and glue/nail it on the studs, using lines to maintain plane for drywall installation.
"The nearest thing to eternal life we will ever see on this earth is a governmental program" -Ronald Reagan
If I hang drywall on the walls I will have a good 1/2" + between it and the ceiling plaster. What recomendations would you drywall experts have for a solution???
To address your question (rather than speculate on other situations) I would pack the gap full of Durabond. Use of a bonding agent is optional and certainley would not hurt. Cut it down flat as you go along, then tape it as you would a drywall corner; only use Durabond again for at least the scratch coat. Second coat with D-90 can't hurt either.
Good luck.
Eric
[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
Durabond is soooooooo useful. I have alrady used it on a different part of the house.
I like this idea too-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
WWPD
I mix up base coat plaster keeping it just below the finish thickness, then skim out with durobond 90(great stuff)!
First you level the walls with temporary removable plates
Your ceiling plate should be at the edge of the plaster ceiling.
The floor plate level to the ceiling plate.
Now you can position the new metal studs up to the new plates and screw the studs to the old framing.
Remove the plates and you're done.
We call it D-corrective framing and you have no problems with the building inspector. As long as you use firestops.
Shimming-leveling the walls and screw the drywall the easy way.
Same method works good for the ceiling.
Got metal?
VTR
Edited 6/26/2006 10:39 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
Edited 6/26/2006 10:44 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
Edited 6/26/2006 10:47 pm ET by dinothecarpenter
Thanks Dino, I'll be using that method in the future.
You know Shoemen...
That was supposed to be my last post here.
Why you mess me up?
howdoyoudo?
Vinny the roofer.
All is well.
Sorry to have to make you post again.
Just had to thank you for that tip.
I have sistered studs with other studs before, and shimed studs to strings, just never thought of using the steel studs. I have done a couple basements recently in steel and really like the ease of use, light and compact carry in, and the fact that they're straight.
Just taking me a while to get out of the wood mindset.
Thanks again
Ok.
The 2 plates is the trick. No strings.
see you.
Me b-ez you be ez.
VTR
Just crown molding .
I normally cant justify it but that does .
Tim
If you folks dislike big crown, what about a different or a smaller molding, like a 2" cove?
If the house is totally modern, design your own modern molding to fit the space, maybe something with square edges and corners. Use a different material like a wood or foam painted to look like steel or copper. Tin ceiling cove? Maybe use something that you can build out as a light cove.
Or just build it out and tape the corners.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
Well, my first thought is to tear out the ceiling and replcae it with GWB (drywall/sheetrock).
However, if there is a solid reason for why you don't want to, another option is to apply your wall GWB in layered thickness to accoodate both your ceiling gap and the window and door frames. So, if you have a true 1" to bring up, then two plies of 1/2" should do it. You can attain virtually any thinckness with the right combination. Also, 1" of thickness should give you 45 minutes or so of fire rating/burn-through-time on those walls.
A half-inch gap at the ceiling to wall juncture might prove problematic over time if you simpply tape and mud the entire joint. It is not a small isolated area but the entire perimeter, subject to movement, that you are looking to tackle.
You could also apply some wire mesh corner bead... don't know the specific terminology... but it's the stuff they used to use with gypsum lath and plaster. Anyhow, apply that and then finish the corners in with perilite or structolite. That should give you a good solid and sound corner to finish up to with your wall GWB.
The difference between stupidity and genius is that genius has its limits. -Albert Einstein
http://www.peteforgovernor.com
Hi,
Gaps between the boards can be a challenge. My solution that I use on this is the following: If the ceiling is painted, I would first apply a latex bonder about 3" out on the ceiling. I let this dry a few minutes. Then I use base coat plaster to fill in the gap. I do this first, then apply a piece of fiberglass mesh tape over the gap, splitting the tape between the drywall on the wall and the other half going up on the ceiling. Base coat will be your hardest material you can use in this gap, which is what you're after. Now you have the option of using plaster to do the smoothing out of the area over the mesh tape, or use joint compound to do the same on both wall and ceiling areas.
Hope this helps!
Your friend,
Robin Raymer/ The Plaster Man
even more excellent advice.
Overwhelmed now with choices ;)
I'll try to let all know (with some pics maybe) of the before and after solutions-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
WWPD
Get a sheet of 7/16" plywood or OSB board and rip it into 7/8" and screw it onto the ceiling where you have the 1" gap.
If you need to furr out the wall for the window casing, do the same and the 1/2" drywall will add up to the 1" and you don't need crown molding. If you need to do this then you don't have to install the 7/8" rip on the ceiling as the 7/16" ply or OSB and the 1/2" drywall requals one inch on the ceiling gap
Trying to fill an one inch gap with Durabond is time consuming and will require several coats. The ply or OSB will be stronger than the Durabond on the ceiling... if this needs to be done.
Anytime I rip out lathe and plaster to later replace with sheetrock, I always save a bundle of the lathe to nail off on the face of the studs. This usually gives you the correct amount of furring necessary for windows, doors, and ceilings. Saves the cost of sheet goods and the time to rip them down for furring.