Here I am to bug you folks again. As I’ve posted before, I’m trying to install various things to my drywall-on-steel-studs walls. I’ve run into some complications I did not consider earlier.
What I’m installing now is shelving. It consists of vertical metal pieces (hollow) that get screwed to the wall (they have pairs of slots along them to accept horizontal brackets). Complication #1 is that the spacing of the studs on this wall is completely out of synch with the positions of the vertical pieces for the shelving. Space is very tight where I’m installing these shelves; I have no wiggle room. This means that, if I’m going to install these shelves at all, I have no choice but to go into the drywall (not the steel studs) with drywall anchors and hope for the best.
So I tried these heavy-duty “E-Z Toggle Drywall Toggle Bolts” made by Buildex. Here I ran into complication #2. According to the instructions on the box for the bolts, ‘the maximum fixture thickness should not exceed 5/8″ ‘, which is exactly the thickness of the verticals I’m attaching. But in spite of this, when the vertical piece is between the bolt’s head and the wall, the bolt doen’t catch the thread on the anchor inside the wall; the vertical is not affixed firmly to the wall, but rather hangs on a loose bolt.
So I’ve given up on this bolts, and I’m back to square 1. The problem now is to attach hollow metal vertical pieces, 5/8″ deep, to drywall. (I also have the additional problem of removing an unsightly E-Z Toggle anchor.)
Your advice is, as always, much appreciated.
jill
Replies
hire a pro
Don't give up. Have you thought of using longer bolts? That may be your answer. I have no idea as to what you plan to store on these shelves, so I will not assure you that toggles will be the correct method of attachment. However, I will suggest that you install these "Hollow" verticle support bars to rest on the floor. This will allow the weight to rest on the floor and the toggles will keep the shelves against the wall. But I don't know if that will place your shelve too low. You could also glue 1x strips vertically on the wall the width of these "Hollow" bars. Then screw directly to these 1x's. Of course you will have to finish the 1x's.
Very simple, get the drywall anchors that are ZINC..(they also have em in white plastic but I like the metal ones, try a lowes)that look like a BIG screw, they screw into the drywall and the mounting screws ( a wood screw type screw #6 or #8 I forget which, cuz I use drywall screws) through the upright (called a 'standard') and INTO the hollow wall anchor..they accept the screws internally and they screw into the DW with external threads. If you can go either above/below the first ones ya put in do that. If not go next to them , cuz if ya take them out you will still have a hole to deal with. Good luck.
Just thinking out loud here...Perhaps you could run wood cleats horizontally and screw these to the studs and then screw your standards to the cleats. To beef things up, you could run vertical cleats under the standards.
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
Hi Jill
Depending upon how much weight these shelves will hold, you have 2 options.
Fasten to the drywall with anchors ( I also like the screw in EZ without the toggle) using glue in the final installation will increase the strength of the mount substantially. Carpenters glue or liquid nails will suffice.
Your other option is to install backers behind the drywall. Cut a hole in the drywall, position cleats where they will do the most good... repair drywall and paint... install shelf. Strong... but alot of work...
In your case, option one is the easiest. Bury the toggle anchor with a slight rap with a hammer and move the shelf up or down enough to acommodate another anchor and cover the existing toggle.
Clear as mud...
Hate to admit it, but I've gone to Home Depot a few times and I once bought a supply of the best toggle bolts I've ever seen there. They have a very coarse thread and a forked tip that's designed to self-start and thread right into drywall. When they're seated flush there's a little bar that flips out and pulls tight behind the drywall. To install your hardware you use a machine screw of whatever length you want. I can dig up a name for them if you like.
I think that is what she is using.
http://www.itwbuildex.com/ezprod.htm
I have tried then and had the same problem. The mechine screw will some times go beside the threaded boss that pulls in the toggle or the toggle will bind and twist sideways.
Where I used them what to attach some lights to a ceiling. So after them started coming loose I was able to dig through the insulation and see what happened.
In my case about I had swam in the insulation I just put up some blocking and forgot about them.
They look about like that and have worked fine for me every time.
backing is best but if you want to avoid drywall repair you should use "togglers". I can't recall the brand name, they are a toggle bolt but not the folding wings--they are available in 3/16"-24 and 1/4"-20. one piece anchor with a plastic retainer to hold the anchor in place until the bolts are installed--MUCH stronger than ez toggles. maybe Bildex brand
Edited 1/25/2004 9:13:04 PM ET by BKHY
I say get longer screws for the anchors already in place. Bring one of the originals to a hardware store they can line you up with what you need. Cost will probably be .07 to .10 apiece. To all I say she's dealing more with shear stress rather than tension. As to length I'd say a 1/2" longer, you're probably just short of the toggle.
Edited 1/26/2004 2:19:01 PM ET by APR328
jill, bkhy has you on the right track. A company called "Toggler" makes an anchor that has generically come to be refered to as a "snap toggle". It has a rectangular piece of steel with a threaded hole in it, two long plastic straps attached to the sides of it, and a plastic washer, all part of a one piece unit. I use these extensively on commercial jobs where people are unmerciful with the size and weight of what they'll put on the shelving and they've NEVER failed. Buy the size called 1/4" x 20, get 2 1/2" or 3" flat head screws, and buy enough to put one in each hole of your shelving standards (that's what those vertical pieces are called). You'll also need a 1/2" spade bit to drill the necassary holes in your sheetrock. They're very easy to install, you'll be an expert after just a few..... good luck Bye the way, home depot, lowes, ace hardware, and others all carry them by me, also sold under the company name "Hilti" it's the same thing, made by Toggler for Hilti. BUIC
Toggler Snap Toggle
carpenter in transition
A
A friend just moved into his new brick colonial with steel studs last October. on a very cold evening late last December they had a get together with some friends and lit many candles, good quality candles. The next morning when they woke up, all of the steel studs and especially the steel fasteners were outlined on the walls. All of the soot from the candles were attracted to the studs underneath the sheetrock. The contractor said it was called “ghosting” and that it was very common with steel studs. The washed and rag rolled the walls to hide the affects of the candles, and it worsened after they installed their LP logs. Have you experienced this and what can be done to minimize the affects. Thanks
Mark