Is there an easier way to address the taping of joints where they intersect in a corner?
I usually do the walls first, then the ceiling joints second, but I run into an overlap situation where the ceiling tape from opposite sides meet. And this is also overlapping the wall corner tape.
Any suggestions to make this faster and easier?
Rocky
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Replies
Do all the bevels first to bring them up to level.
Next coat, set the corners finishing mud one side at a time. Where they meet, switch sides.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Ditto on what Calvin said, bevels first but I do both sides of corners at one time. Set your tape then mud down one side and smooth it out. Mud down other side but kick your knife on a slight angle to other wall. Alittle practice and you get alot more done quicker.
Thanks for the info! I will try that.
As a follow up, how do you deal with the ceiling tape overlapping into the corners?
Rocky
I miter the tape so no overlaps.
I dovetail mine so they lock together.
LMAO!!!"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
That causes problems with truss uplift. Never dovetail tape myself.
My miters are just ripped miters, nothing so fancy as your dovetails I'm sure.
First step is hot mud for anything over 1/4" gap.
Then I run (mesh) tape on all butt joints and get a coat of mud on them. Any bevels that don't intersect those butts can be done then too. But if there are any bevels I can't do because of the butts, and these bevels intersect corners, I do those corners, both sides first coat (paper tape).
Get some heat and ventillation on the place.
Next day, first coat all bevels left undone first day as well as any inside corners. First coat on any outside corners. Spot nails and screws and start around recessed cans and electrical boxes.
By the end of the second day you can have your first coat on everything, as long as you have enough (wo)manpower onsite.
The biggest thing to remember is that your butts are going to take the most coats, so you want to get them started first - both in the job, and each day if you can. Inside corners and nail/screw heads take the least (usually two good coats) but I like to avoid dragging fresh mud through partially dried mud, so I do second (and third if needed) coat on inside corners one side at a time.
Probably the absolute hardest thing to tape well is those inside angles other than 90 degrees - like where a kneewall meets a roof plane, so treat them as butts if you have any of those - do them first and plan on 3, 4, maybe 5 coats to get them right. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com
I dovetail mine so they lock together.
That's for inexperienced tapers. I mortise and tenon my tape, then fasten it with glueless ebony pegs sanded flush.
DG/Builder
You're in the wrong forum. Try Knots instead.
I cope all my tape joints. It's not easy and takes years of practice but afterall it is fine homebuilding.
I use biscuits or pocketholes whichever is available
The Collins coping foot makes coping those tape joints a lot easier.
"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
Sometimes I will use the gimbal mounted remotely articulated C02 cutting laser to accurately miter the tape. This tool is also handy for demolition, undercutting door jambs, cutting granite countertops, etc, but is very dangerous when used by untrained personnel.
For that reason I usually make the miters using my thumb and forefinger.
I don't care who you are, that's funny right thar...
:)"Citius, Altius, Fortius"
I spike my tape joints together. Sometimes, when the tape is loose, I drive in some gutter spikes for extra holding power.
blue
I thot you were too stingy for that!
I swear to God.....you guys never dissapoint!
I've watched this thread hang around longer than I expected it to without stopping to read. When it reached 20 posts, I knew there hadda be some shenanigans goin` on.
Gutter spikes indeed.
Real men use rail spikes!
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I tried railroad spikes but they are too hard to drive all the way through and clinch over in the next room. I like gutter spikes because I can do two corners with one spike!
blue
I like to get out the tap & die kit to screw and set the tape in there well. That way if you ever need to remove it for repairs of any kind, just unscrew it. I find a 7/64 by 5/8" to be a good all around size. Use an NPT for regular paper tape, and fine thread for mesh. This may take a little longer but you'll thank yourself in the end.
Blue's also found that's one thing his underutilized speed square is good for. The right tool for every job.
Thanks to all, for the actual information and the humor to let me know "we ain't building furniture here".
Rocky
All kidding aside, I DO cut my tape on angles where more than one come together, like where two ceiling corners meet a wall corner for example. Tipi, Tipi, Tipi!
http://www.asmallwoodworkingcompany.com