Tell me what they are!
How do you clean your tools afterwards? Do you keep a bucket of water on hand?
Do you use paper or mesh in the corner?
My utility knife blade doesn’t last long, only cut through the paper?
How well do those vacuum sanders work?
Replies
Bucket and brush
Paper
Snap off the tip or change the blade, don't worry about the gypsum
Good
__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
By a "quick" change knife, one you do not have to unscrew if your planning on switching blades a lot
If you don't have stainless knives and trowels, dry them after use, or the resulting rust may stain the mud next time you use them.
Some like to make holes for plumbing rough-ins with a drywall hammer. In my drywall tool box I keep an assortment of holesaws for my cordless drill that leave a cleaner hole, and it doesn't take much longer than whacking away.
I wash with whatever is around, sometimes with my hand othertimes with a cloth around and other times I steal my buddy's brush.
Paper in the corner!
I change the blades on the utility knife - like 'em sharp or someguys have that rectangular stone to sharpen it with.
tried a power sander last week, works great just slow. Ideal for renovations or areas where there is habitation by people.
a bucket and a drywall sanding sponge works great for the tools and to hit the fuzz off between coats.
I use paper in the corners but would suggest the metal ones that are encased in paper for anyone not experienced in taping.
Put a rubber sanding block with some medium grit and strop your blade every once in a while they will last much longer.
and yes the power sanders do work well especally with the water filters taking out the dust.
only the point of the drywall knife needs to be sharp, as they dull I take my end cutting pliers and break off a small portion of the blade, thus giving myself a new sharp point without changing blades.
I've been using a file to whisk the edge of whatever tool I'm using to apply mud occasionally, as well as dipping it in water as I work. Is this getting too persnickety?
And how about those sanding sponges, I tried one, it is supposed to be wet on dry mud, but it didn't help at all.
Why paper in the corners?
Mix mud or buy it prepared?
Water and a rag to dry the tools at days end. Sanding sponges are great and are used dry. Paper in the corners. Easier to skim. Don't get the buffetting effect that you get from sliding down the fibre tape and don't need as much mud either. Never heard of using a file. Prolonged use of your knives and trowels get sharper with use. My finishing knife is like a razor. Use premix for 2nd and final skims. I use bond for taping and first skim. Means alot of mixing but can put second skim on the same day. Not recommended for the novice. You have to be pretty quick.
Gary...
It's tough to TELL you the tricks of the trade but I could show you dozens through the cycle of a job from hanging to finish. Where are you? I could use an extra set of hands on a DW job coming up :-)
"I've been using a file to whisk the edge of whatever tool I'm using to apply mud occasionally, as well as dipping it in water as I work. Is this getting too persnickety?"
Sort of. Not sure what you mean by "whisk the edge of the tool" as for dipping it in water not necessary, but you do need to keep them somewhat clean. A build up of dried mud globs on the tool make it hard to work with.
"Why paper in the corners?"
Look at paper tape, it has a seam down the middle, which makes it easy to fold in half and fit the corner.
"Mix mud or buy it prepared?"
I use premixed almost exclusively. However it still needs to be mixed well getting it to a nice consistency to work with.
I believe Tanuton publishes a book on drywall, this may be your best source for the information your looking for.
Scott R.
Thanks for the info. I live near the mississippi river.
I have that book on drywall from Taunton and you will not find any of the info in this thread in that book.
Another technique I heard is cardboard shimming the studs on either side of the butt joint to create a valley at that seam. I've just been mudding a slight peak, but I like that shim idea.
Grab one of those cheapy sureform planes for about three bucks. Works slicker than a whistle for knocking off a bump, rasping an edge, taking off a corner, what have you. Quicker and easier than gouging at it with a razor. Used to think it was pointless until I started using one. Now I think it's indespensible." Shoot first and inquire afterwards, and if you make mistakes, I will protect you." Hermann Goering to the Prussian police, 1933.
The crease in the tape is great if the corners are straight. My house(which was been built by someone who didn't know about making things straight, square, plumb, smooth or level), needed to have every corner repaired. I used mesh on any of the open areas and metal corners to straighten everything, interior and exterior corners. Multiple layers where the line had an arc to it. Mixed the mud for the first coat, from the bucket for the last two thin coats. This made it look like someone actually cared about the final result, because I did.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Cleaning tools is best with a bucket of water. Just drop them in and use a scrubbie (plastic wool pad) to shine off the crud.
Paper all over. If you use fiberglass tape you are supposed to use the setting type of mud. Paper folds better in the corners.
Buy the 100 piece pack of razor knives and a knife that opens w/o a tool (even a coin is a PITA.
I hear vacuum sanders are not good. Spend your time learning how to put the mud on thin and accurate. If you sand it is wasted effort essentially.
I scrape the knives together keep them clean and wash with water occasionally.
I always use paper, but maybe it's just habit.
I use a stone to sharpen the knife blade.
For the most part, I don't do any sanding. I've found that it's easier to put on less mud per coat. After each coat is dry I scrape it lightly with a broad knife to knock off bumps and ridges. I hate drywall dust!
I use all-purpose for taping and initial fill, topping mud after that. The topping mud is harder when dry and holds up better to life. It also shrinks less, so fewer coats are needed. Because it's harder, if you screw up it's harder to sand or scrape.
I only sand with a pole sander very lightly over the last coat and then only if it's smooth wall.
If you are doing repairs, construction adhesive works great to glue any scrap of anything into a hole. I've even glued old cans into a wall! Whatever works for you!
Edited Note: I stand corrected! I got it exactly backwards. Others have posted that topping mud is softer, not harder!
Edited 3/12/2003 7:39:24 PM ET by Hasbeen
I've done some drywall repair around the house in the past, but just finished the most horrible job ever.
Has anyone rocked and finished a smallish hallway linen closet? 1 foot deep by 3 feet wide.
Just barely enough room to squeeze my big ole frame into, whereby I block off all the light. No elbow room, and I'm trying to forget the fun I had taping and joining the ceiling, not to mention sanding. It's just too small to use anything but some sandpaper in your hand.
Cursed and spit the whole job through, sucked up a lotta dried compound dust.
Then I moved on to painting. 30 minutes cutting in, 3 minutes on the field, and 1/2 and hour getting the paint offa me.
From now on I do walk-in's or nothing.
C.
Here's my war story: the other night I stuck a 40" by 48" piece into the upper side of a corner. After zipping out for the outlet and nailing it in I realized I forget to wire the outlet.
Going to switch to screws now?
You must be using different topping than I've been using.
Mine is easier to sand and a little bit softer.
I'm with Benny here. If you talk to any of the technical folks at USG, National Gypsum, Gold Bond, etc. they'll tell you that their topping formulations are specifically designed to be softer and easier to sand, thus their intended use for "topping." This is also why they don't recommend them for taping coats, because they aren't as hard and won't "set" the joint and tape as well on that all important first coat.
As for the original questions in the thread:
I use the self adhesive paper tape on all of my flat joints. It's more expensive, but unless you own a full auto-taping gun set, it's so much faster it easily makes up for the cost difference in time saved.
In the corners, I prefer to use the metal faced paper beads from USG. Again, certainly much more expensive than a standard roll of paper @ 250 feet for about $3. However, its additional strength and resistance to cracking, ridging, etc. are unmatched. I simply price the cost into the job and then explain to the HO how my materials are superior to "builder grade" and what they are getting for their money. Haven't had any complaints or bulks yet since going this route. MUCH more importantly, I haven't had any call backs either! I also find my adjustable corner knife to be a great weapon on older homes. When you just don’t' know what type of angle you may encounter, it's great to be able to set your angles to match theirs and keep right on getting' it.
I use the dry sanding blocks for the "touch ups" (angled, flat, corner, etc. all great options) and a sanding pole w/ screens for the rough out sanding. The wet sponges are great when doing those punch list items where everything has already been cleaned and you have that one little area that rears its ugly head.
I have a Stanley "quick change" knife (uses a button - no tools) and simply have a habit of putting in a new blade in the morning and a new one after lunch. Not the cheapest route but certainly the fastest / easiest and always assures the best results. However, I use it mainly for quick "score and snap" cuts. For the detailed stuff I use my spiral saw (aka Roto Zip) and for large cuts (i.e. ripping multiple sheets) I use a hand held drywall saw (like a carpenter's saw except the teeth are offset specifically for drywall). It's easier and much faster to snap a chalk line and then cut away rather than trying to score a straight line using a little knife and a straight edge over a ten or twelve foot distance (I use the largest sheet possible to cut down on seams).
The dustless sanders are a good investment if you will be doing either A) a lot of jobs where the home is occupied during the day (i.e. kids) and you want to control the dust or B) doing historic work where there is likely to be hazmat issues such as lead paint, etc. They can also be good for commercial jobs where there may be sensitive equipment like computers to take into consideration. Beyond those types of situations, they do tend to be slower and require more setup, take down, maintenance, etc. than good old fashioned elbow grease.
One trick I recently started using that I have been very happy with is a product called the "Butt Hanger" It essentially acts as a back brace for butted seams to give them a tapered edge like the factory edges. I get mine from the local REW Materials yard. They are nationwide so you may have nearby. Again, not the inexpensive route, but the quality of the results make it worth pricing into the job. You can get more info on this at:
http://www.butthanger.com/
Finally, not a "trick" but a rule to live by, CONTROL YOUR DUST. Tape off windows, doors, floors, and vents. For big jobs I use a Portable Air Scrubber from Sunbelt Rentals. It uses HEPA multi-stage filtration and can duct directly outdoors. A clean HO is almost always a happy HO! Let their prize possessions get covered in a fine film of gypsum dust everywhere and you won't likely be asked back anytime soon.
paper the corners and when you prepare the paper by ripping it to size and folding it down the center then what I do differently though is I'll rip a piece say about 8' then use that as a template and quickly rip a dozen more keeping them all together and fold the whole pack in one unit.
Roto zip tool!
Tunes !
BE a wall
Namaste
a"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Stanley button knife.
I went thru 15 knives on my project and have one of those Stanleys as well. The button works swell for a month then you can't push hard enough to get the blade out.
I picked up a Culley Banana knife and that is my favorite now. It has a lever to open the hinged body section, a magnet inside to hold all of the spares in the handle cavity, and it has a nice feel. Oh yes, it falls real nice off of the scaffold and bounces almost as high. The only drawback is the extension of the blade. The real cheapies ($1.50 big box specials) have the capability to extend the blade past the 1/2 way point. Really usable when slicing insulation batts. Otherwise cutting Drywall & durock it is my favorite.
Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
I went thru 15 knives on my project and have one of those Stanleys as well. The button works swell for a month then you can't push hard enough to get the blade out. I picked up a Culley Banana knife and that is my favorite now.
Hey Booch,
I've been using my current Stanley knife daily for probably 7 or 8 months now with no issues. Maybe you just got a bad one, who knows.
However, I did try to google your "Culley" suggestion just to see what that offers and I couldn't find anything. Do you have any more info on it? (links?)
Andy
If I could spell it would have been easier for you. Cully is the brand. Here is the website / catalog. http://www.cully.com/cat_index-a.html
I can't seem to paste the PDF file link on this page, so go to the above link and scroll down to Knives, Banana. It is a half way decent picture with the features and arrows as descriptors. Mine was about 6 bucks. I'm constantly fighting to keep it in my pocket. It is a favorite of everyone that gets it. The lever to open it is a 1/4 turn die cast toggle. It is worth ordering.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
Thanks for the addtional info. It does look like a realy good unit. Under the "ain't broke - don't fix it" heading, I'm gonna ride my Stanley until it dies, for now. But, I book marked the Cully page a will be sure to give it a go when I'm ready for a replacement.
Like I said before the Cully is a great heavy duty unit, but the Stanley blade reaches a bit further. I suppose my troubles are related to drywall dust buildup but one more tool to fix is not high on my list of desires. Sometimes you want it to work like a hammer. Maybe a Nike Knife? Just DO It!?Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
Stanley button knife...mine "freezes up" also. Nothing that can't be fixed in the sink with some Simple Green and then applying a liberal dose of lithium grease to all of the internal surfaces. Works for about two months and then it's into the sink again. I've had mine for three years now!
Mike O.
Sounds like it's time to install a grease zerk in it.
Jeez...now it's 9:30pm on a Saturday and I have to go into the shop to see if I can somehow mount a zerk to this damn thing! Or I could crack open another beer.
Beer wins.
Mike O.
I use the self adhesive paper tape on all of my flat joints. It's more expensive, but unless you own a full auto-taping gun set, it's so much faster it easily makes up for the cost difference in time saved.
Andy,
What type of adhesive paper tape are ya using? I ran across the same thing about 6 months ago and have been using it on long seams and on corners. Just dip it in a bucket of water and put it on with your hand on the long seams and in the corners just just wipe it with a knife. I will never go back to using mud to tape with. It's so much stronger, after 15 minutes you can apply a coat of mud and when you pull it off the rock, the sheetrock facepaper comes off whereas with the old way, no holding power of the mud and tape. Also it's not affected by humidity and you can tape when it's colder than 55.
What type of adhesive paper tape are ya using? Just dip it in a bucket of water and put it on with your hand on the long seams and in the corners just wipe it with a knife.
Hey Zano.
I use a product that I get at my local DW yard, but it is also readily available at the big HD (at least in my area anyway). The brand name is "Self Adhesive Drywall Tape" by "Wall Tool" and it comes in 100' roils for the small job @ about $4.50 or 250' rolls @ about $7.00 for the big ones. I actually get mine by the case for the 250' rolls just for convenience (and a 10% savings). It is perforated so that the mud smoothes right in which also makes it easy to identify.
This tape has a peel off backing vs. the water activated version you mention. I love it because I can just throw it onto my belt reel and go to town. Even if I'm up on 10' scaffolding, I can just keep on rollin' ... no water bucket, no mud pan, nothing, I just peel and stick to my heart's content!
As a side note, I personally wouldn't use it in the corners. As I mentioned before, I am really a big fan of using the paper faced metal when possible. Because of the stress placed on these particular seams ['0I just like the "comfort level" better. I also get this from the same supplier, made by the same manufacturer (Wall Tool) in 250' rolls and just trim to size with tin snips. It is precreased so folding it into the corners is a breeze. (But remember, as always, my advice is worth exactly what you pay for it!)
I will never go back to using mud to tape with. It's so much stronger, after 15 minutes you can apply a coat of mud and when you pull it off the rock, the sheetrock face paper comes off whereas with the old way, no holding power of the mud and tape. Also it's not affected by humidity and you can tape when it's colder than 55.
I completely agree! The stuff I use also has such a strong bond that it will actually tear the face paper if you try to remove it. I know with this that I will never have to worry about bubbles or peel backs when doing my punch walk through (or a few years later for that matter). That alone makes the extra $$$ easily worth it. But when you ad the time saved as well, it becomes a no brainer in my book.
You are also right about the temperature factor. I usually try to have heaters on site when needed, but inevitably there are those situations when the "tape must go on" regardless of what you have to work with. So here again, I can use it with confidence to at least get the taping done, and then do the finish coats later when the is a better environment.
Andy,
Give me your address by private mail, I will send you a roll of the adhesive tape that I use for free, just want your comparision. I know that one you are using, sorta orange color, it's thick but I hate the peel off, always havta pick it up and it gets in the way with the stilts. Others who have seen me use this tape, at $2.50 for 250 feet, want a roll and are amazed on how fast I can tape. I swear, I'll beat two guys with bazookas in half the time.
The reason why we use the 2 inch tape is to bind the two boards on a long seam together. Mud and tape does hold but not as well as a tape with an adhesive on it. The reason why the tape is 2 inches wide is to give more area on the tape for the mud to hold the two boards. The adhesive that I use is also 2 inches wide - best thing I've seen in drywall in a long long time. Super strong, super fast and saves money! Also, it's great for corners because when the glue dries it hardens the tape. Also on vertical boards, it helps because there is no mud under it so ya never loose the tapered edge or havata squeeze out the mud to much to keep the tapered edge. Only thing you have to do is if there is some loose sheetrock on the seam, dig it out, apply mud or setting compound over the damaged rock and then apply the tape, but ya would have to do that anyways.
Zano,
Thanks pal. I just shot the info off to you using the addy in your profile. Let me know if you don't get it for some reason.
I agree with the part about having to pick up / work around the peel off backing with my stuff. I suppose it's a matter of choosing your evils ... A) mud pan and knife - B) water bucket and knife - C) Peel paper everywhere.
I'll be insterested in seeing how your stuff goes. The part the intrigues me the most is the fact that it "hardens" after drying. That could give me the rigidity in the corner seams that I prefer and allow me to use one tape for everything instead of my current two tape system.
I have to forewarn you though, I'm a true Irishmen ... seeing is believing and I don't believe nothin' til I see if for myself! :-)
Thanks again,
Andy
Andy,
Got your address and I will send it out tomorrow. On corners, even if there is gap between the rock, ya don't have to to fill it in. Just don't use a new sharp knife to pull it into the corner, then it does cut it, so use your trusty old 4 incher. Always willing to help out someone who is willing to try something new!
Zano and Andy,
I need to know the size jobs you both are working with this tape and how many rolls per hour /per day you are getting on . Im trying to make a determination by effectiveness.
Tim Mooney
Tim.
I've done a 780 board house, a church renovation of 600 boards, some office walls of 200 bords and some smaller jobs with this tape. How fast is it, heck, I never timed myself. But look at this way: You got a wall of 100 feet long, 8 foot high. All you do is get a bucket of water filled 1/3, strip off about 10 feet at a time, dip it in the water, and then apply it to the long horizontal seam with your hand (press it well into the tapered edge). Now compare this to putting on the mud first, apply the tape and then wiping it. For the corner, get on stilts, leave the bucket on a ladder, strip off 10 foot of the tape, dip it in the bucket, apply it into the corner (the tape is creased also) and wipe it with a 4 inch knife.
Glad to send you a roll for free as your one of the good guys here and try it yourself. Also, I'll send out 5 more rolls to 5 guys who want to try it, but that's it. You all can tell us here then whether ya like it or not.
I appreciate the offer . I just was curious what the count on time would be . Tapers always keep up with it.
Tim Mooney
I need to know the size jobs you both are working with this tape and how many rolls per hour /per day you are getting on . Im trying to make a determination by effectiveness.
Tim,
Like Zano, I probably can't give you a lot of detail here. My work is entirely existing residential and mostly Historic restoration. As such, I'm not slamming out the LF that one would be in a commercial or new residential situation. With the exception of the occasional basement job, I'm not typically working with more than 40-50 sheets at a time. Granted I do almost always use 14 & 16 footers when I can get them through the door, so I use half the number of "sheets" to get the same square footage as most guys, but my jobs are still small in scale vs. most.
I just know that from years of doing taping on my size projects I would estimate that it is a minimum of 40% faster than the manual skim-tape-embed method. But much more important than time saved (which is enough in itself) is the feature that Zano and I both mentioned earlier ... i.e. SUPER strong seam adhesion. You simply will NOT get bubbles, peel back, OR call backs with this stuff (or at least I haven't). It gives such a dependably great end result that it will win you over the very first job you use it on.
If you have a gun or other type of auto system, then this stuff isn't for you. But if you're currently doing all of your taping by hand, I can't recommend strongly enough how much you should give this a go on your next job. The other guys in my area that I have turned on to this stuff all agree that they will never go back (even the Old Salts who swear they can tape in their sleep LOL)
"because they aren't as hard and won't "set" the joint and tape as well on that all important first coat.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />"
Do any of your customers get upset when they find out that you putting Microsoft #### on their walls instead of dry wall compound <G>?
"because they aren't as hard and won't "set" the joint and tape as well on that all important first coat.<?xml:namespace prefix = o ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office" />"
Do any of your customers get upset when they find out that you putting Microsoft #### on their walls instead of dry wall compound <G>?
Ahh, spkoen like a true Mac fan! LOL That's okay, I don't care for the MS boys either, but what can you do?!
Seriously though, I'm not sure what's up with that script in your quote. When I go back and check my original post it doesn't show up. I did include a link that post, so perhaps your machine is doing something strange with that? Who knows, that's why I swing hammers and not ride as a desk jockey anyway ... that stuff gets too annoying for me!
Edited 3/12/2003 11:06:54 AM ET by andy
I don't think that it has to do with a link. I see it in a fair number of posts in this forum. And only very, very rarely do I see it in any other.
It is some kind of non-standard MS extensions and the MS software filters it out so that you don't see it, but others do.
Are you using Office to actually post messages here and not Internet Explorer?
Are you using Office to actually post messages here and not Internet Explorer?
As a matter of fact I am. You could be on to something Bill. I do often times spell my stuff in MS Word and then cut and past it back to this board. The built in spell check that this board has is far too frustrating for me to have the patience to deal with. Sounds like these are good questions for the board administrators to investigate ... (Are you guys lsitening????)
Amen Andy!!!
What do those butt hangers cost?Steelkilt Lives!
What do those butt hangers cost?
I get them from REW for $8.50 each. Certainly not cheap (in fact they sometimes cost more than the sheets I'm attaching them too!) but they are fairly substantial with a main wood section and then the three formed metal braces (as you can see from looking at their site).
I should mention that I don't use them on EVERY butt joint, but instead just on ones where I may have a concern about telegraphing or ridging. For instance, I do use them on every ceiling butt joint since the lighting will typically be directly next to that area. I will also use them in a room where a particular wall may get a lot of natural light and/or be close to large areas of windows. Finally, I typically default to them in any area that will be receiving a semi-gloss or glossy finish (including certain wall papers). But, if I'm doing a garage, utility room, basement, etc. I will just use the old fashioned method.
My partner and I agree that at our hourly rate, the time saved in detailing and multi-coating non-taper seams far exceeds the minimal cost of the units. Add to that the fact that we plan all of our layouts to avoid butt seams whenever possible so you aren't talking about that many units in the grand scheme of one job. So the total cost addition to materials is usually something the HO never even cares about. Would I use them in quantity on a large commercial job? Probably not because those jobs are too $$ competitive. But in the type of higher end residential work that we do, they are a great weapon.
The only "trick" I've come up with that I can share (never seen anybody use this, but hey, I don't tape for a living) for a sanding block use a scrap piece of 1" extruded insulation board as a sanding block. After minimal use, the corners round, which is nice, and you can't beat the weight. Now I know you shouldn't have to sand at all if you are really good, but alot of us aren't.
Jon
I was a drywaller for some time ( too long probably). I learned from the best. Jack Phares was my boss. They patented a tool a long time ago for finishing those butt joints. Aptly called the Phares tool. A 36" piece of heavy guage metal that you used just like a knife. Of course it was bent on a break. Great tool.
Try to mix a generous dose of lemon scented Palmolive dishwashing detergent in your final coat. I know most of you are calling me crazy and saying that it will cause bubbles. It actually has the opposite effect. It really makes your mud smooth for that final coat.
Personally I like a drywall blade. Some call them suicide blades. They are not retractable but they stick out further. They are faster for drywall work especially when you hang by the board.
Gypsum Company recommends that you use Durabond 90 in moisture prone areas (anywhere you would use green board).
I have seen people's work who say they don't have to sand. None of them come close. I have used bazookas and boxes (special drywall finishing tools) and they still need sanding for any reasonable standards.
I use a sanding pole to make quick work of the job with 220 (or finer-depending on your standards-some use 150). Then I go back with a 500 watt light and a sanding sponge to make nice work out of it.
Drywall...You either love it or you hate it!
hate it"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
So what else do you do Andy? I mean besides sit on this web site. Just wondering because you are on almost every posting I see several times. Have you ever been listed on the breaktime part of the magazine?
Yo dude, what's up with that?! Not that the other Andy needs anyone to speak on his behalf, but your question hardly seems constructive let alone even remotely related to ThoxSpuddy's original thread topic. If you've got a question like that in the future, do the rest of us a favor and e-mail it directly to the desired person using the address in their profile and keep your issues out of the forums that the rest of us are trying to learn from.
BTW, IMO, if you look at the site that he post on his signature line, it looks to me like the guy's a hell of a builder, so what's it to you what he chooses to do with his non-billable time...
** To my other fellow readers, my apoligies in advance for the rant, but that one just struck me the worng way to say the least ... but I digress ... :-)
I wasn't addressing you and you totally took it wrong. Lighten up...dude.
BTW, IMO, if you look at the site that he post on his signature line, it looks to me like the guy's a hell of a builder, so what's it to you what he chooses to do with his non-billable time...
Andy
Thanks for the compliment...yeh that house took me almost five years to complete before I flipped it to get the one I'm in now.
Speaking of dryway.....looks like I'm going to need to resurface all the existing walls and ceilings in this 168o house. Problem is....the idiots that lived here before painted everything with a gloss paint.ugh..
Think I'm going to have to use a deglossing liquid to dull them up before I resurface them with 90 minute USG...any ideas on that one?
Be well
NAmaste
Andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
looks like I'm going to need to resurface all the existing walls and ceilings in this 168o house. Problem is....the idiots that lived here before painted everything with a gloss paint.ugh..Think I'm going to have to use a deglossing liquid to dull them up before I resurface them with 90 minute USG...any ideas on that one?
Give me a little more info first:
1) Would I be correct in assuming that, given the age of the home, all existing walls are plaster?
2) Why do you think that you will need to resurface the walls? Is it just for aesthetic reasons because they are rough in apperaance or are you seeing actual damage such as cracks or fall outs?
3) Can you look at the ceilings (perhaps from the attic) to see how they are braced. An additional skim coat can be very heavy and may cause existing ceiilings to sag (and eventually fall) if they aren't really solid to begin with.
4) Are you seeing any sag and/or separation, ballooning, etc. on the walls or ceilings currently? In many homes of that age, they used the honest-to-goodness animal hair plaster and by this time the keying may be beginning to give way from the lathe. Just like a house with a bad foundation, you can do all the skimming you want, but unless the foundation is sound you are simply spinning your wheels.
5) Do any of the neighbors have homes of the same time period and have they done any demo / renno? If so, assuming they did their homework in advance and hired well qualified people, they may be able to save you from reinventing the wheel. Every region's buildling techniques are different (particularly that long ago) so what I have seen here in the mid-Atlantic area could be radically different from what you're up against in your area.
Let's get the surface straight first, then I can give you some ideas on the gloss paint issue. Also, at this point you should strongly be considering any lead paint issues the lay ahead of you. I was really happy to see FHB finally do a good feature on this (issue #150 pp 66-73). Given it's age, there is little or no doubt that you have plenty of it on your walls.
Andy
I just want to resurface them simply for asthetic sake. There are cracks but nothing serious and its mostly plaster but I dont think horsehair. Walls are over wood lathe and ceilings are over wire lathe. I dont think the weight will be an issue at all. I think maybe two coats will be sufficient if that.
No balooning to speak of just some cracks. The ceiling joists are 4x10's and walls a full 2x4.
There are some walls and places in the ceilings that were sheetrocked but not many.
I just want it to look freshened up and more minted out than it is. No one ever took care of this place.
Thanks for the concern
Namaste
a"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
If you want mint, you should have built a new house.
Sorry guy, sounds like all you want is the old address.
I like you, you should know that, but I think you are the wrong person for this house.
What you plan will prevent this house from ever being restored. Everything I have seen you propose makes my eyes roll back.
You need to be the house, feel the history.
Touch only what needs to be touched, and plan on spending $$$ so no one knows you touched it.
I am in pain over this, I have seen it happen too many times...
(sorry, I won't say anything else about this)
A couple of questions:
Is it better to use topping compound on screw/nails rather than the all-purpose j-cmpd?
How necessary is it to use tape over a butt joint on a stud? what good is the tape? Isn't the purpose of the tape to give strength over an unsupported seam?
What happens if you have a wandering stud and you don't have more than a 1/2" to nail the board and get behind to sister in a support? Toenail as best you can? What if it is 5/8" on the ceiling? I'm thinking of slipping a piece of metal behind the piece that is stuck and screwing into that with the loose piece. Any other ideas? (I didn't hang it).
I got a batch of screws that stick to the driver head, square heads. What do you guys prefer, square or philly? Is there a brand to look for? How about McFeeley?
Is there any advantage to parting with $16 for a drywall hammer? What can that do that an ordinary hammer can't?
this isnt a museum..Its my house now and my karma now. and I resent you telling me how to run the lay of this land/house. I'm going to bring this place to where "I" am now which is a fantastic place.
There isnt one corner of this crib that hasnt been touched over the years by incompitants or..compitants.
As for me in this house......
I'm the best thing that ever rolled into it!
My questions, considerations and devoted intoxications revolving around this piece a wood will only reflect the love and devotion and consideration I bought this place with in heart soul and mind so kiss my azz Mr perfect world......lets see how bad I do brother,,,,,,, Love you
Hope your world is as perfect and devoted to all the perfections of life you expect me to endure.
My world is about where I park my hat coat wife daughter dog and expectations....not a museum dude!......Its me my wife, my daughter and dog now. Sorry if I dont meet your expectations sire!
Namaste
andy
Ready to kick some serious azz (as usaual) : ) wink"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Qtrmeg writes: If you want mint, you should have built a new house. What you plan will prevent this house from ever being restored.
Andy Clifford replies: this isnt a museum..Its my house now and my karma now. There isnt one corner of this crib that hasnt been touched over the years by incompitants or..compitants.
Okay boys, don't make me send you to your rooms. It's late, I'm dog tired and I just got off of a 6 hour "emergency" drywall repair for some damn basket party. (don't ask...)
I learned a GREAT distinction when I was in design school that I think applies perfectly to this situation. I have also used it as a constant clarification with my HO's in my historic work. And it is:
When dealing with a historic project there are two very different ways to approach it depending upon the desired outcome. One is Histroric Restoration and the other is Historic Rehabilitation.
The first is as it's name implies. The goal is to restore the project to its original shape / size / form / style etc., etc. This is meticulous work and best undertaken by trained architectural historians with specific attention given to every detail including things as small as the door hardware and fastner type (i.e. hand forged nails) If you have ever been to some place like Williamsburg, VA you will see amazing examples of thiis type of work. While many people use this term interchangably, few ever actually do it.
The second is also as it's name implies. The goal here is to re-habilitate the project or to make it in-habitable again. This does not dictate that every detail be meticulously maintained and honored. It simply means to get the project back to a level that the current owners feel is one in which they can live. This is what 95% of all historic projects truly are by the strict definition. The idea is to honor the original feel of the property (i.e. plaster instead of drywall, hardwood floors instead of wal-to-wall, etc.) but to still add in things that make it livable for the new owners (i.e. modern appliances, electrical upgrades, central climate control systems, etc.)
Adding a fresh coat of plaster to a historic sturcture is hardly sacrilege and has likely been done at least once if not two or three times since it's orginal construction on a property of this age. This will also receive fairly easy approval from most municiple historic review boards. Knocking down walls and adding a stainless steel room divider on the other hand should get you shot (I actually saw this on a recent HGTV show about lofts in a 300 year old warehouse - I had to change the channel it made me so mad) So long as the original design intent remains intact and is not disregarded or bastardized, then the home becomes like a fossil with many layers, showing the history of those that have come before to those who will come after.
So, Qtrmeg if you want to restore a place then god love you. Its amazingly expensive, awesomely time consuming and drawn out, and lord knows we need to document and preserve more of our fading architecture. But, Andy if you simply want to rehabilitate your place, then good on ya. That's what I spend most of my professional time doing for other poeple and it's certainly how I plan on putting my two daughters through college. The way I see it, both ways prevent one more piece of history from falling prey to yet another greedy developers bull dozers!
Andy, Cag
I have to say after living in this house the past few months and having every top notch historian from the historic society SPLIA walk through here that........its probably been well over a hundred or more years since anyone really "loved" this house as we (my wife daughter and dog) do. We all feel as though we've always been here.
I can see over the centuries how people took out and put in all kinds of different things. Past the early 1900's what people did here was horrendous, disguting and thoughtless with zero soul.
Before that the changes they made such as the banister going up the front stairs hall is gorgous. The list goes on but this place was no doubt left to crumble the past seventy or so years ....until we got here.
My first huge expense wasnt something that made this place pretty or added fun for us. Dug around three sides of the house 7' deep and scraped out the dirt between the rubble rock foundation. I built tons of forms and set them in..poured over $6000 in concrete and labor just to have the foundation solid again. It was caving in and no one ever did a thing about it.
The bathrooms upstairs that I'm now working on were disgusting. BAd taste for any era.
I pulled up the mud job floor and uncovered the 14" green painted plank floors. Took each plank up which is now sitting in another room waiting for me to strip the ugly paint off. I saved "every" hand made nail I could. All piled in a corner of the room. I patched evry post and beam that some past idiot cut out to run pipes or wires through (no wonder the back of the house was sagging so bad).
The new bathroom I'm doing ....I bought "handmade" crackled glazed 4x4 tiles for the shower area and tumbled marble 4x4's for the floor( very natural looking tile). I'm having a sink made in Vermont by a potter. It looks like an old wash basin that will sit on top of the "vanity " ....its an antique about 150 years old my wife and I found. Knotty pine. Its just an old cabinet about 30" high all hand doevetailed on the top in plain view.
The faucet will come out of the wall rather than out of the vanity.
Anyway....as I said..this is my house now and I "know" Andrus Titus, the original owner would be happy to know I came along.
I think about every nail I have to pull and every fug up I have to repair and think about all the work the original carps did to this place..no corner goes unloved here.
I hope someday someone comes along and recognizes the love we have for this "home" (not a museum). Its a home.the real deal!
Be real
NAmaste
Andy
PS...The tipi out back really sets this place off big time!!! but the pool looks kind of ridiculous....lol (I'll deal with it.my cee-ment pond...loll)
PSS....Just found an old artisian well house out back in the woods buried in vines and weeds with super clear water in it....hmmm."As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
AND Qrtmeg
Chill.... your friends, act like it, buy each other a beer, and be done with this, theres enough stupid arguing goin on here.
Sorry to but in, but I hate to see to people who usually agree and get along gettin there feathers all ruffeled up.
I'll take that "dope smack" now for placing my neck where it doesnt belong, but dont let me come back here in a week and find this thread with you two goin at it.......
Peace Neil
View ImageGo Jayhawks
Don't worry about it, I don't plan to say anymore about this.
not worried......sticks and stones, ya know?"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Thats good I didnt want to have to come over there and......
:)
View ImageGo Jayhawks
ya wouldnt have to come over there....now "here" is a different story.....This side of the tracks am loaded with soul
a"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Stop making it like I was posing on ya Andy, I just care about old houses.
So I didn't take a design class, but I did work on a bag fulla houses of your vintage.
If I am not mistaken, I didn't flip on you, I just said you were making me nutz. You care, I care, let's compare notes.
No fuss.
Nanu, Matt
I'm not trying to hijack this thread, but I have a question regarding drywall. Specifically some tips. This last week, I framed a cove ceiling in a dining room. I'm not a drywaller, but I frame. I'm looking for any tips or tricks you guys have for drywalling this ceiling. I know that the drywallers we use, usually use 1/4" masonite for work involving curves. Any suggestions you guys have would help me, and them very much very much.
For some scale on this cove, the radius I used was 8 1/4".
If this is hijacking this thread, then tell me and I'll move this post somewhere else.
Thanks in advance.
Tim Uhler
View Image
Edited 3/15/2003 4:34:29 PM ET by TIMUHLER
It's not a question of hijacking a thread, we do that all the time. The question is, how many guys who might have the answer to your question have already gotten tired of this thread and put it on ignore and will never see your question?
Look at my website below....I did that barrel vaulted entry ceiling and many others using 2x framing and then "wiggleboard" over that....Then rock over that. MAkes for a top notch solid job IMO......easy too! I think I invented this method.....lol
Be a wiggle......nahhhh be a broad.......lol..I mean board
Namaste
andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
My evening has come full circle...
I searched for information on framing archways and found your posting. I was going to ask you how you finished the corners. Now I see that you're searching for the answer yourself! IMHO, my conclusion is that plastering is the appropriate solution here, not wallboard.
To address the original posting:
Paper is used in corners because cracks will develope if you use a mesh tape.
All drywall joints should be backed by solid substrate (ie. studs).
Mix your own mud using one of the various "hot muds" (available at HD) - try the 20 minute or 45 minute easy sand- for the first and second coats, then finish with premixed topping compound (add some water, not much).
For ceiling work, make T-braces (more like Y-braces joined across the top; commonly referred to as "deadmen") to hold up the panels. Cut the height a little long (maybe by 1/2" or so). The alternative is to strategically place "clamping cleats" on joist faces 1/8" above the joist bottoms and c-clamp the ceiling panel up to the joist (use a block between the clamp and the drywall surface).
It's a 2 person operation. Take your end up on a ladder, butt it against the edge of the wall or previously installed sheet, your partner lifts their end and braces and clamps. The return the brace to your end. Set a few screws on each end. Now you're free to screw in the rest of the sheet and your partner can tape the joints on the previous installed sheet.
At a minimum, use plastic sheeting and tape to seal off openings (including ac registers and returns) to the rest of the building and to bag up cabs, counters, or other fixtures in the local area. At a minimum, you should place an inexpensive fan on a window sill and cut a piece of drywall to seal off the upper half of the window. Direct the air outside. If two windows are available, set a second fan to bring air in. Turn on any exhaust fans when working in bathrooms or kitchens (ie. range hoods). Of course, a good respirator is a good thing. Have a wet/dry vac around. I don't know what your work environment is, but you will have to take all measures to minimize dust in apartment buildings with shared air conditioning or it will contaminate the air in other apartments. Same consideration when you go to paint.
Hold the hook of your tape measure against the utility knife blade side and your index finger at the measurement on your tape at the drywall edge and pull down both ends simultaneously to measure and cut your drywall in a single step. Clean up edges with a surform. It's going to take some practice...
You can use a drill as a rotozip to cut around electrical boxes and such...
Anyone with links for sanders with integral vacs? I would appreciate it mucho...
"For ceiling work, make T-braces (more like Y-braces joined across the top; commonly referred to as "deadmen") to hold up the panels. Cut the height a little long (maybe by 1/2" or so). The alternative is to strategically place "clamping cleats" on joist faces 1/8" above the joist bottoms and c-clamp the ceiling panel up to the joist (use a block between the clamp and the drywall surface). "
Woah!
Hit the rental store and get a panel lift tool. Slicker than snot on a doorknob. You lay the sheet on this 3 wheeled contraption and turn the crank (like a boat winch) and the sheet crawls up to the ceiling. Straight or angled, I've lifted 14 foot sheets of 5/8 and it goes up like a dream. Roll it to position, crank some more til it is tight then screw it in.
Personally I'll never lift another sheet for the mere sum of 25 bucks a day you can save your back and keep from developing a bald spot on your head.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
okay. not so much of a trick of the trade though, huh.
i just never figured out how to get one of those darned things up to the second floor. guess that i should have just rented a crane while i was at it...
brian
Funny you mention second floor. I used the same lift to raise the drywall up to an open loft rather than carry it up the ladder (spiral stairs not in yet.) It lifted 4 sheets at a time that I slid off to assemble up there. The lift comes apart into 5 or 6 pieces so you don't have to carry a big chunk of steel up a ladder. Frankly it was one of the best construction tools I've used in a while. Second to a power framing hammer (nail gun)Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
Hey Booch,
who was the manufacturer of the lift? how much to rent?
i looooove my paslodes...
brian
I rented from the True Value Hardware. They have a nationwide network. Just look under True value in the yellow pages. As for the brand I haven't a clue. It was yellow is all I remember. AND when you rent it, spray the parts with WD40. you'll save a lot of arm effort.
http://www.generalrentals.com/rates/equipment/liftdry.html
is a link to a lift. You can buy it but I had to plow thru 50 ads in order to find this manufacturer.Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
In additon to True Value as Booch mentioned, you can also get them from any Sunbelt rentals. They're also nationwide, so one of the two is sure to be in your area. Cost is +/- $25-$30 per day and EASILY worht it. It use them very frequently on my jobs. They run about $1500 plus to buy new, so I figure that for the amount that I use it, it would take me about two years of renting to equal buying and then I'd have to service it if/when it breaks. I have also used it to lift 14 and 16 foot sheets up to 5/8 FC by myself and it is a dream just like he says.
Also, if you're likely to be doing much DW I would HIGHLY recommend the "DuraSpin" auto-feed screw gun from Senco. Got miine a few months ago and it paid for itself in time savings on the first job.
Amazon has a drywall lift that looks like the one pictured for $629. Still not worth buying unless doing a lot of drywall by yourself. http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg/stores/detail/-/hi/B0000224PE/qid=1048047456/sr=2-1/ref=sr_2_1/104-5108618-1588749
I saw the lifts new on Ebay for about $500 and readily available
Be lifted
Namaste
andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
apparently you missed my post which of course was invaluable.....and simple...frame and use wiggle board over the framing then rock...In corners of archways use foam out of the can to fill and sturdy up the rock..geezzzzz do I have to do everything myself?
Be imaginative
Namaste
andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Thanks for your help on this. The foam idea was good. I'd have never thought of that.
Can you guys recommend any books on drywall? Or is most of this stuff just picked up with experience? If it is, then I'll stick to framing ;-)
Books: Ferguson's by Taunton is pretty decent. Everything gets better with experience.
Second the duraspin for large expanses and ceilings. Not so much into corners. The nose needs room to work, but hey, it saves you time on 90%, that's good enough. Cordless will run all day on two batteries. The free zip tool has just relegated the corded model to the dust bin. Suckers quiet to boot." An example from the monkey: The higher it climbs, the more you see of its behind." Saint Bonaventure
I must have interpreted the picture incorrectly. It appeared to me the the arched planes in the corners were set at 45 degrees to the ceiling coves. seemed like a good idea to insert a simple architectural detail in the corners in that (or any) case.
Here's a quote from a post that probably reflects the use of plaster in general:
"... I use plaster only on the domes that don't have planes, and I sub it out. I am a pretty fair drywall finisher and at my age I am not looking to master any trades that I am not already acomplished at, so I aint interested in the plaster work..."
brian
"... I use plaster only on the domes that don't have planes, and I sub it out. I am a pretty fair drywall finisher and at my age I am not looking to master any trades that I am not already acomplished at, so I aint interested in the plaster work..."
Sounds like a very good statement . Who said it ?
Tim Mooney
it was BRISETBEAN. here you go, Tim:
http://forums.prospero.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=27261.25
to me, the corners of the ceiling cove shown were a 1/4 section of a "dome with no planes", so i put my plaster suggestion out there. thought the rounded corners would be a nice touch in the ceiling cove...
brian
All drywall joints should be backed by solid substrate (ie. studs).
Not necessarily! Go to http://www.usg.com, then go to "Gypsum Construction Handbook, then to "Cladding" and go to page 115 - "Back Blocking Application". Butt joints are better when backed by a backer board in between the studs than on a stud.
ok done......I'm all ears. Not looking to do anything to hurt this place. Just help it. There have been centuries of things changed here within each century. Unfortunatly the 20th century was the most destructive here IMO. "Total" thoughtlessness of the past carps work.
My intention is to bring it back where the good stuff still lies. Where people seemed to have cared. I dont need it to be 323 years original otherwise I'd remove all the plumbing, heat and electric and put an outhouse out back.
I'm salvaging more than most people would here. Even keeping every nail to "reuse" in appropriate places such as..in plain view when I find a place to reinstall the old plank floors that were painted over about twenty years ago and then mudded over with disgusting tile.
I have pics of everything I'm doing here. Even saving bricks that I found down in the dirt floor of the basement to use somewhere here. they apparently made their own bricks right here on this property. Speaking of which.....found chunks of chimmeny down the basement in the old clean out,,,,,I "just" spent a fortune having the original chimmney relined so that it wouldnt have to be rebuilt which probably would have been cheaper.
Also uncovered the "original" railings from the house. Someone threw them in a pit in a hole in the basement. I caught the tail end of one and started digging..pulled up three hand carved bannisters in poor shape but still existing and together....MAybe I'll use em here somewhere or donate them to the historical society museum.
The entire rear of this house is falling over......hence the good idea of the addition. It'll hold this whole place back up again not to mention keep this landmark here for another 323 years with my name on it as well.
All the old windows and flooring will be reused where I have to add on.
The historic society people told me that they were really happy I was doing what I'm doing. Theyre very strict about "everything" but apparently they seem to approve and love my ideas so......
Be well friend
Any info is good info
Namaste
andy
PS....Damn...was looking for a good fight.......its been a while. Must be getting older than this house...lol"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I dont mean to hit you the wrong way but we dont discuss our time spent on here . This is Breaktime and we are doing our thing not the wifes , bosses or kids when we are here. If you read enough you will find that it just isnt questioned. Glad to have another here that is a tool hand in drywall.
Tim Mooney
If he thinks Andy C is on every thread, wonder what he thinks about piffin?View ImageGo Jayhawks
and you and rez..lol"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
What can I say I'm sociable :) I like to talk, but unfortunetly I contribute little... lmao.
I meant to ask in your other thread, but instead I will just highjack this one for a monent, why are you considering shingling over your shakes with new shakes? Tear off is a b*tch and I admit I know little about roofing, and less about shakes but shingling over them seems like a bad idea in general???
Be...... Not Lazy
Neil (:~}
P.S. Your nephews book arrives tomorrow and I look forward to reading it over my spring break road trip, got good reviews from what I saw, I didnt look, do you know if its hardback or paper, doesnt matter, just seemed inexpensive for a hardback.
Also you should tell him your pimping it over here and deserve a kick back :)
View ImageGo Jayhawks
YEH YEH..I'll rip it off but was hoping someone would tell me why I shouldnt.and I was actually gonna sign off saying.be lazy but you beat me to it..lol
Let me know how Matts book is..I'm waiting for an autographed copy in paperback or for them to make a movie out of it. I aint spending $25...lol
Be lazy (OK?)
Namaste
andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
If I WERE being lazy I wouldn't be up right now, I would be fast asleep instead of reading this abnormal psych sh!t for my test tomorrow.
I'll let you know how the books is probably after next week, If your to CHEAP to buy one of your NEPHEWS books, give you me your address and I will send you my copy when I am done with it :)View ImageGo Jayhawks
I was kiddin dope..lol
a"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
HAHA and lets get Rez in this . LOL
Tim Mooney
Even TALKING about questioning it is questionable.What would you say to a beer Normie?Daddy wuvs you.
MR,
I work on my house which I just bought that was going to be another spec house I live in as I work, cept I think this ones a keeper. Its a circa: 1680 house that is in need of serious restoration as well as repair not to mention a large addition that I'm waiting for the plans to be approved for.
Last house I did is on my website below my posts. Hence I'm home alot right near the puter so I stop on during breaks now and then and after work and as you can see now, before work. Usually start around 5ish AM.
I also take outside work. Mainly old historic houses but not exclusivly.
And no I havent been in the BT part of the magazine.
Be questionable
NAmaste
andy"As long as you have certain desires about how it ought to be you can't see how it is." http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
mrhodes:
I just read your comments on drywall finishing you wrote in 2003. I'm a painter. I though all of what you had to say and I liked your standards (sand to220 or higher). You must work in high-end projects; most drywall finishers in my area sand with 120. What area of the country do you work in?
Susanne Rose
Rose Painting & Decorating, LLC, Suttons Bay, MI
I work in West Virginia. I learned on high-end ski resorts. Do it right, do it once. They checked our work with flashlights. They show everything
Thanks. Actually, I usually light out my own work with a 300-watt halogen held directly on the wall, and I point it in all directions. Works pretty well.
Sue,
Id retort, as a painter.
Its the painters responsibility to Mac out the walls, not the drywall finishers.
Its the Drywall Finishers responsibility to give straight, non J hooked corners, buried tape and screws, if necessary, long drawn out bevels. Everything needs to be sanded, even close to the baseboard heat, and up in hall corners, but if its done to 120 everywhere, Im happy... and paper tape wouldnt hurt.
A decent primer will fill the rest. Its like staining... you can sand all you want past 150, but the stain isnt going to change past that point.
-zen
Zen,
Sorry, what is the meaning of this term "Mac out the walls?"
Make them look killer.
Hire someone else to do it for you. ;) Stuff is a real pain in the #@! when you get it in your eyes, dry or wet. Doesn't help your neck either. (i have a doulbe cerviav neck fusion)
This is a little out of line with this discussion but my 'trick' is LIPSTICK!
This is a very old trick so it may be 'standard fare' to all and silly to mention. But just in case: When I'm laying up drywall alone ... working along a wall ... I put LIPSTICK on the outer edge of the electical recepticals ... then carefully allign and lean the drywall up against it exactly as it's going to go. Then pull it cleanly away and the EXACT SPOT where the receptacle will want to go through the drywall is clearly outlined in sexy red! The edges of the receptacle 'kiss' the back of the board! I cut this out before actually laying up the board and the fit and cut are perfect! I've got a few women friends who know NOT to throw away their lipstick remainders ... I'll take 'em!
Terry
Terry,
Buy a Roto Zip, We did the lipstick thing back in the 80s. Also used blocks of blue caulk to mark elect. boxs. Nothing beats the Roto Zip!
"Buy a Roto Zip, We did the lipstick thing back in the 80s..."
G8 -
Further confirmation that I truly do live at LEAST 20 years behind the times. Here I am ... blindly broadcasting my excitement about a stone-age approach. I'll look in to a roto-zip ... I hope they come with 'drywall instructions'(?)
Thanks!
Terry