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The plaster on the ceiling is probably about 3/8″ thick. What I do in this situation is pry out a few pieces of the wood lath and use them on top of the exposed lath right across the joists to fur them out even with the plaster. If the plaster is 1/2″ thick I use strips of drywall. Thinner, I use yard sticks or rip strips on the table saw. Whatever it takes to get flush with the surface of the plaster. Then I go over the entire ceiling with 1/2″ drywall, using 2″ screws into the joists. Run the drywall perpendicular to the joists and cut the drywall so that the cut joints meet on center of a joist. Fasten with screws every foot. That means you’ll get 5 screws to a 4′ width of drywall.
A couple of other points is that you want to stagger the cut joints so you don’t end up with a long ridge in the taping where they line up. Try to keep a tiny space open between the sheets to allow compound to squeeze in when taping – about the thickness of a penny. And if you have crown molding or coves you’ll need to consider how your going to finish these edges. And do yourself a favor. Get up on a ladder an gently chip out a hole in the plaster, about 2″ or less, at both ends of each joist so that you can actually
b see
the joist and snap a chalk line on center along each one. I can assure you their probably not 16″ on center and might not be square and you will probably have to cut some off of every sheet. Also, where a joist is 4″ or more away from the wall it runs parallel to screw the drywall to the lath about every 10″. Remove the screws that miss, or split, the lath. And most of all, wear a $2 dust mask. You know, the thick cottony kind with two rubberbands. Spare lungs are kinda expensive.
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The plaster on the ceiling is probably about 3/8" thick. What I do in this situation is pry out a few pieces of the wood lath and use them on top of the exposed lath right across the joists to fur them out even with the plaster. If the plaster is 1/2" thick I use strips of drywall. Thinner, I use yard sticks or rip strips on the table saw. Whatever it takes to get flush with the surface of the plaster. Then I go over the entire ceiling with 1/2" drywall, using 2" screws into the joists. Run the drywall perpendicular to the joists and cut the drywall so that the cut joints meet on center of a joist. Fasten with screws every foot. That means you'll get 5 screws to a 4' width of drywall.
A couple of other points is that you want to stagger the cut joints so you don't end up with a long ridge in the taping where they line up. Try to keep a tiny space open between the sheets to allow compound to squeeze in when taping - about the thickness of a penny. And if you have crown molding or coves you'll need to consider how your going to finish these edges. And do yourself a favor. Get up on a ladder an gently chip out a hole in the plaster, about 2" or less, at both ends of each joist so that you can actually
b see
the joist and snap a chalk line on center along each one. I can assure you their probably not 16" on center and might not be square and you will probably have to cut some off of every sheet. Also, where a joist is 4" or more away from the wall it runs parallel to screw the drywall to the lath about every 10". Remove the screws that miss, or split, the lath. And most of all, wear a $2 dust mask. You know, the thick cottony kind with two rubberbands. Spare lungs are kinda expensive.
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Hi Ronald,
You're right. Strap the entire ceiling with 1x3 on 16" centers, across your joists. Use screws long enough to get 1 1/2" into the existing joists. (Don't nail the strapping or the drywall.)
Once the ceiling is strapped, take a few minutes and go back with a straight edge and check for uneven areas, back out the screws enough to slide in a shim and retighten.
If you've got a serious sag in the ceiling, install a 1x6 or a 2x6 (depending on the amount of sag) around the entire perimeter first. Then you screw a 1x3 at both ends and tight to the ceiling in the middle of the room. Then, with a line on the ceiling or a straight edge, you shim and screw as you go.
Don't forget to block in between the straps at the wall end so that the drywall can be continuously glued along the wall.
This is done, especially when you do only the ceiling because you don't have the drywall at the walls to support the joint to make a better tape.
Not a big job, just take your time and all will be fine,
Gabe
*Ronald,Try using a longer sheet than 4 by 8. This will eliminate butt joints. Hire yourself a Telpro lift and take your time.
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I live in an old brick home built in 1875. We recently had a new forced
air gas furnace installed, and now I have a big hole about five feet square
in the ceiling in my living room. My question is, how do I go about putting
up drywall? Do I tear down the old plaster and lath, or do I just strap
over the old plaster. The ceilings are ten feet, and I plan to use four by
eight sheets. Any help would be great. Thanks.