Who prefers which product behind tile in a tub surround and also for floor underlayment in a bathroom?
What about vapor barriers in each application.
Who prefers which product behind tile in a tub surround and also for floor underlayment in a bathroom?
What about vapor barriers in each application.
Learn more about the benefits and compliance details for the DOE's new water heater energy-efficiency standards.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Fine Homebuilding
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
© 2024 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialStart your subscription today and save up to 81%
SubscribeGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
Replies
Bumping the message.
It's regional & supplier-based as a preference, near as I can tell. I tend to use Durock, as it's readily available. Errgh, now I can't remember the proper name for Denshield's u/l product--only that it's in the smae line.
The Dens, I've only ever hung as an external wall product--just have never used their interior u/l product.
There was a previous thread (which may or may not have vanished) where there were a number of folks who had bad experiences with the Hardibacker. I can't say either way--durock been good to me; been bad to me, same as the jobs.
I'll vote for the hardi-backer. I've used it on both shower walls and under floor tile. It cuts much cleaner than the Durock, and is much easier for faucet cutouts. I use a carbide cutter to cut through it. Also can use a carbide blade with the circular saw to cut it to size. Their screws also have ridges under the head that help them countersink well. Nice stuff.
Thanks guys. I haven't used the hardibacker product before but I think I'll give it a try this time.
I just tore out the old tile - funky colors from the 60's - and the previous system looks to be 1/2" 3 ply plywood followed by metal diamond lath and about 1" of mud. One inside corner showed a bit of moisture related deterioration - probably caulking failure between tile and tub - but nothing too bad considering it was installled in 1965.
NO NO NO Hardi backer sucks IMO. Use DensSheild by Georgia-Pacific. http://www.gpgypsum.com
It comes in 4x8 sheets (instead of 3x5) is lighter, and easier to cut (similar to drywall) . Also its water proof ie; you dont need a vapor barrier. Water can not pass thru it.
Edited 1/6/2005 10:33 am ET by reinvent
What about joints? What kind of mud would you use with tape behind tile walls in a shower surround?
I just put in Denshield and around here it is 3 by 5. Do they have more than one product? The reason I choose the Denshield is that I put in a ring shower in a very narrow bathroom, and you can either tile or paint the Denshield. We put in a mud floor pan for the entire bathroom, tiled the floor, wainscoting, and up behind the shower. For taping we used a hot mud. I imagine anything that cures rather than dries should work. We also covered the area near the shower and the screw holes and joints with roll on membrane.One problem with painting Denshield is that it has some texture. If I did it again I would skim coat everything that I wanted to paint.
From my reading on the johnbridge.com site, many pros swear by the Schlutter Ditra product and won't use the hardibacker or similar product any more.
I have only seen it in 4x8.
Asked a rep what to do abought the seems and he said that the mastic used to attatch tile to the wall board was sufficient to water proof it. Which means you dont need to use any sort of vapor barier.
The problem with durarock is tho it will not crumble when exposed to water, the water will pass right thru it creating mold and rot on the framing ( if the grout fails).
Edited 1/6/2005 4:35 pm ET by reinvent
Thanks Reinvent.
I think I'll give this stuff a shot on the walls. I wish it didn't have a "texture" to it so I could cover the entire bathroom with it. Someone mentioned skimming the entire board prior to painting. Seems like a lot of work - to me anyway. I'm sure to a plasterer or drywall guy this wouldn't be a big deal. Wonder how joint compund adheres to the denshield?
The dens sheild is meant as a tilebacker in a high moisture area, ie a shower stall. The rough surface helps the tile mastic bond well.
If you just want a durable wall board for the regular bathroom walls then check out their product called 'denseglass silver'.
Reinvent,Do you use mastic in showers?? Or are you calling thinset "mastic"?Thanks.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Here are some pics where we used Denshield on all the walls. The shower ring isn't up yet. Maybe overkill, but I don't trust greenboard. The problem with the texture is where the non-tiled joints are taped. Those end up smooth, and the rest of the area has a slight texture even after a coat of primer and four coats of paint.3 more days til we move into the big house! Wooo whooo!
Thanks for the photos BSayer. The texture is not noticeable in the photos but I suppose it is in person. Maybe you're the only one who notices since you did the work?
The place the texture is noticable is near a seam. Since there isn't any texture where the joint has been taped and mudded, the difference is noticable. The texture is very minimal but the difference is somewhat obvious. Particularly on the joint underneath the light, which we never did get flat....
"Asked a rep what to do abought the seems and he said that the mastic used to attatch tile to the wall board was sufficient to water proof it"I could be wrong, but I seriously doubt that mastic will work. Thinset is what you should use at the seams, with the tape. You can tape it and thinset it immediately before tiling, just be careful when dragging the trowel across that area so you don't pull the tape up.Mastic and thinset are not the same thing. Mastic is not suitable for wet locations.I have found Dens-shield in two different sizes (3x5 and 4x6?? maybe), but I've never seen it in 4x8!That's the first I've ever heard of painting Dens-shield. But I don't know why I would ever do that. Use the Dens-shield under the tile, and something else for painting. If it's a bath, I'd probably use the water resistant drywall. Denseglass silver might be overkill (not that there's anything wrong with that).If you use one of the other backerboards in a wet area, then you have to put a water barrier behind the board. This works fine.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
Your right, my bad. I ment to say thinset. Good thing you dont have me tiling your shower. :p And yes it was 4x8 sheets. Kinda heavy but not nearly as bad as dura rock or those other 'cement backer' boards.
BTW I have seen instances where green board was used in a bathroom (not the shower stall) and when we demoed for a remodel the green board was crumbly, just from the high humidity.
Edited 1/8/2005 3:19 pm ET by reinvent
our tile sub has gone back to dura rock, he does not think the hardi is going to hold up