Edge Jointing … What am I doing wrong?
OK, I consider myself a pretty smart guy, etc, etc. But I can not figure out what I am doing wrong.
I have a 6″ Delta portable jointer that I recently picked up at a garage sale. Barely used, looks brand new. This is my first time using it, and really first time using a jointer ever, except maybe middle school shop class years and years ago.
I have some 1.5″ thick cedar that I want to glue up into a rustic table top. I ran them through the table saw to get a “straight” cut to start with. And I spent about an hour last night trying to edge joint them, over and over, but no matter what I do I end up with either a slightly convex or concave edge. I can’t get it dead straight.
I know this isn’t rocket science … what the h#@# am I doing wrong? Any tips?
Shawn
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Checker Contracting – SE Michigan
Replies
Have you aligned the infeed, outfeed tables and the blades?????
Just out of box or from garage sale expect crooked cuts.
I " think" I did. Followed all the procedures in the manual as if I bought it new. I suppose I could have screwed it up in some way. I'll try running through it again tonite. Thanks.
Shawn
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Checker Contracting - SE Michigan
How long is the wood and how long is the jointer bed?
david
The bed is 30", which means about 15"either side of the cutting head. The pieces I am jointing are 36" long. During the course of my frustration last night I tried keeping pressure on the outfeed side a few times, and then keeping it on the infeed side also. Neither seemed to do much good.
The length of my final pieces need to by 28" long, I was just leaving them long to help with any snipe of any screw ups on my part.
Is it just a hopeless case because of the limitations with my lumber length and the size of this jointer?
Shawn
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Checker Contracting - SE Michigan
You should easily be able to joint a 36" board on the thing. I've done boards 8' long on mine. (But that's really pushing it)I'd look to bad lumber or a bad adjustment.
Microsoft's Bill Gates' $12.9 billion fortune makes him the worlds richest man, fulfilling the biblical prophecy: "The geek shall inherit the earth"
Shawn,
One way is to extend the infeed and outfeed tables.
For a 30" long piece, you need 30"+ before and after the knifes.
david
The bed on those things isn't very long. If the pieces you're working with are long, it could be that you're applying more pressure in some parts of the cut than others, and that's making the edges crooked.
If you pre-cut the pieces to roughly the finished length you'll need that makes jointing work better.
A: They always want to play leap frog with him!
Junkhound is right, check the alignment with a long metal straightedge that you have tested. Hopefully the jointer tables are already flat across length and width and can be aligned on the long axis.
You didn't say how long the boards are. Remember that if you're trying to joint longer boards, the feed tables may be too short to support the board fully and small feed errors will result in less than a straight edge. If you don't already have extra roller stands or some other feed tables in addition to the jointer's, this might help.
I have found in gluing up softer woods like cedar that small gaps on the order of 1/128" or so can be taken out during clamping. Typically these occur at the ends of boards during jointing due to sniping and result in convex boards. I always allow for at least an inch of waste at each end. That also relieves me of the need to be too fussy in alignment of the ends during glue up.
Good luck.
Edit: Sorry to be redundant with other posts - lost out to faster typists. :-)
Edited 4/8/2008 11:51 am ET by WindowsGuy
My dad built a fair amount of furniture with a jointer that size, including a large dining table with pieces at least 4 feet long.
He also lost a fingertip on the jointer.
Missing only 1 fingertip - lucky. I have nifty scar tissue on the end of my two middles from my jointer. The ER doc said I must have good reaction time because I had missed the bone on both fingers and the flesh would grow back. 'Nice' additions to the scar on the tip of my index finger that a table saw gave me years earlier. As a result the first three finger tips of my right hand are missing a bit of feeling, but look okay as they are still round.
Jointers are nasty buggers when you get careless.
I've jointed miles of stock on the same machine as yours, and I also have an 8" jointer made in 1905. Neither of those has given me as much trouble as several 6" contractor-style jointers, which seem to always have the problem you're talking about.
There are two big issues. One is that the tables have to be absolutely parallel to each other. The other is that the knives have to be as flush to the outfeed table as possible.
The only other issue it could be is the way you're pushing the stock through, but usally keeping pressure on the outfeed side takes care of that.
I'd be OK with a concavity (is that a word?) of 1/128, but I'm talking errors in the 1/16" area. Thats a bit much for my liking.
Thanks for all the advice. I'll go through all the alignment procedures again, pay attention to my feeding methods and give 'er another go.
Thanks!
Shawn
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Checker Contracting - SE Michigan
And watch those fingertips!
What is wanted is not the will to believe, but the will to find out, which is the exact opposite. --Bertrand Russell
A guy calls his wife from the hospital:
"honey, don't freak out, but I lost my finger on the jointer today"
(wife): "the whole finger?"
(Guy): "no, the one next to it..."
(say it out loud.)
k
How far above the outfeed table are your knives at their highest?
Mike -
The knives are set exactly the same height as the outfeed table.
Shawn
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Checker Contracting - SE Michigan
Hi Shawn:
First of all, some people say that you want a slightly concave edge when jointing. Then, when you pull the middle together you will automatically tightenj up the joint at the ends. Of course, in this scenario you can only do two boards at a time.
I have a 10 inch jointer. I only use it for face jointing prior to thicknessing, and I think of this as an absolute must 95% of the time. I never edge joint on the jointer. Instead I have a 10" wide board that I put against the fence on my table saw and I put the board I'm jointing against that, concave side toward this "shooting board". Then push them both through, taking off whatever required to get a straight edge. I wouldn't do this without a great blade (Forrest), but why not have a great blade.
It's so much faster than a jointer and gives a better finish to the edge.
How long are the boards? If I recall correctly the portable Delta is a pretty small jointer. 3' or less in length? If you're trying to joint 6' or 7' boards you don't get a lot of registration on the beds. I'd say 4' is probably the max you could process with satisfactory results. A properly aligned outfeed system may also help increase your capacity.
Another issue may be whether your beds are coplaner. That is, the outfeed bed should be set at the same height as the knife when it reaches "Top Dead Center". The infeed bed should be slightly lower than the outfeed bed but still parallel. If either bed is tipped that could mess up the results.
make sure all of the cutters are all set the same....
set the fence to the cutters...
set the tables to the fence...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
My guess, based on the problems guys seem to have when first using a jointer, is uneven pressure on your wood (pardon the expression). Let the knives take the unevenness out of the wood with little pressure.
Don't attempt to push the wood into the table any more than is needed. Worn knives make it harder to do. Knives set too high or low mess with a straight cut.
Along the same lines, with my Delta jointer, keeping even pressure on the board the entire time will result in curved cuts every time as the outfeed table flexes down reducing the cut at the end of the board. In my case the careful pressure is best used primarily on the infeed side, near the knives. On other machines this may not be a problem at all. The point is, each machine will have it's own gremlins.
Best of luck
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Run the boards through the table saw to get the egdes close to right, then one or two passes with a hand plane should do the trick. Especially for wood as soft as cedar, it will probably be a nice experience ... quiet, feel of the blade through the wood, the smell of the wood, etc.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I'm no expert. But.... Look at it this way. The front table is to hold the board up and feeding in alignment with the rest of the board. But as soon as you get enough past the cutter you want to shift to the back table. I think the back table and it's relationship to the cutters is the most important thing to get straight.
Think about it this way. If the board is straight where it sits on the outfeed table and the cutter is in perfect alignment with it as the wood is advanced into the cutter it will take away just enough wood to continue this. But if the cutter is to low in relation to the outfeed table it will leave just enough to raise the board as it rides onto the table. This keeps happening and you will get a concave board.
Now take the opposite. The cutter is a touch to high and as the board rides onto the outfeed table it drops down a bit so the next section is cut just a little deeper. This will create the opposite.
You don't get spine on a jointer. Snipe happens on a surfacer. I'd cut them shorter. But you need to get your technique right and get the cutter aligned with your outfeed table. Your infeed table is important also but I'd make sure you get the outfeed straight. I take a straightedge set on the outfeed table hanging over the cutters. Take the belt off so you can rotate it. Rotate the cutter head under the straightedge so it just brushes it.
If the cutter is to high you will get a convex board. If the cutter is to low you get a concave board.
Have you heard the technique where you intentionally make your boards a bit concave? The idea is that when you glue them up and pull them tight with clamps the ends of the boards have more tension on them. that is where they shrink a bit and open up. At the ends. this technique is suppose to help with it.
I have that same jointer. Took it to a job last week and was doing what you're seeing, cutting wonky.Took off both beds, and had to shim one corner on the infeed table to get them to plane. Took the knives out, and cleaned the gunk and chips out from behind the blades.Took a couple of shots to get the knives dead with the outfeed table... It will certainly do 4' boards alone, but you may want to rig up some support. I use the Rigid flip tops, very handyAfter getting going, I try to keep even pressure over the knives on this jointer (I have a 12" Northfield in the shop that takes a totally different technique). Use those Delta push blocks that came with it, they're great... I've bought others, but the Deltas have much better gription.You don't want to lose anything... ya might have to flip off a Republican or something<G> If dogs run free, then what must be,
Must be, and that is all.
True love can make a blade of grass
Stand up straight and tall.
In harmony with the cosmic sea,
True love needs no company,
It can cure the soul, it can make it whole,
If dogs run free.
12" Northfield is a VERY NICE machine. We had one at the college where I teach and they got rid of it out of ignorance. That machine was more perfect than any jointer I've ever seen. Extremely smooth and quiet, direct drive. It had a wooden captain's wheel for adjusting the infeed table. I still miss it.Bill
Another nice thing about that Northfield is it's portability, easy to tuck anywhere<G> If dogs run free, then what must be,
Must be, and that is all.
True love can make a blade of grass
Stand up straight and tall.
In harmony with the cosmic sea,
True love needs no company,
It can cure the soul, it can make it whole,
If dogs run free.
<<You don't get spine (sic) on a jointer.>>Yes, you can, if the beds aren't parallel.
Read my second post on this. # 31 point # 2. It explains this. My original post was covering "snipe" and how it usually associated with surface planers. Personally I've never had snipe on a jointer because mine have been adjusted properly.
Edited 4/17/2008 6:19 pm ET by popawheelie
Some outfeed tables are not adjustable, so setting the knives is more critical.
Ok, I need some enlightenment... can someone please explain why the knives should be set higher than the outfeed? I've always set them to be even, and never had a problem with snipes... well, other than getting them into the dang bag.And, the OP's jointer does not have an adjustable outfeed If dogs run free, then what must be,
Must be, and that is all.
True love can make a blade of grass
Stand up straight and tall.
In harmony with the cosmic sea,
True love needs no company,
It can cure the soul, it can make it whole,
If dogs run free.
I set mine so the walnut block i use moves just a tad...um, quarter inch with my finger resting lightly on it as the blade moves it. After i've used the new blades for a bit, i've checked it again and they are right even. I lock the blade holder down tight, so i think it's just compensation for the fresh edge of the blade wearing off a bit. I'm not sure if my surmise is correct, but it works, though i don't set my blades as high as the link recommends.
Same here. I also have touched up the edge w/ a diamond hone just a tad.
I've read about a newspaper slip and a Hard Ark. stone WHILE it's running to "dub" the back of the cutting arc..I did that once..scary as hell, and IMO dulled the knives. I do NOT see any benefit to trying that. Unless yer suffering from constipation.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
I was taught that trick of honing the knives while running by a Powermatic dealer in the early 70's. Had to have the out feed table set just right . Scary !! I did it twice I think and then lost my nerve and never tried it again.
Hard to see what you are doing when sweat is pouring into your eyes and your hands are shaking.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
You, me and Dovetail all tried the same trick and all lost our nerve!
There was a very interesting fellow on Knots who got into a thread there about TS set-up...one of those precious ones where they wander off into the weeds. He told about his "trick" of using a ceramic plate to fed gently into the blade to 'joint' the edges. Damned if some folks didn't think he was serious. The other half clobbered him for even suggesting such a thing. NO ONE thought it was funny....except me.
Anyway, i wonder if the three of us were snowed by someone like that...putting a stone to a running blade...that's gotta be right up there in the 'Stupid Pet Tricks' canon.
Guy who showed me actually showed me!! He also jointed planer knives in place using a hard stone set into a chiseled hollow in a block of wood about 3'long x 6" wide so the stone showed only a 1/4" or so above the block. He would set it on the table of the planer,dry fit it at each knife until he determined the closest table to knife clearance , lower the table , start the machine and hone the knives.
The block had "legs" so it stayed above the table rollers and then with the planer running he slowly raised the table until the knives just touched the surface of the stone. That one I never did even think about trying. His Dad(co owner of the Powermatic dealership) who was probably 70 at the time had taught him the tricks. This was about 1973 or so. I witnessed both these demonstrations at a "How to tune up Your Powermatic equipment". I think I have an old jointer book here that shows the same trick we are talking about .
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Since my only "hanging out with the boys" happened at collidge, i suppose i must have read that trick in a book, too. Still....it wouldn't take much for something to go very wrong very quickly if the stone shattered...i wonder if a magazine woud accept that as a "tip" these days. <g>
I once got a phone call while setting new jointer knives. By the time the call ended, i mis-remembered that the last blade holder had been tightened. I've ALWAYS plugged that machine into an extension cord, then stood across the room to spin up a new set of blades. Good thing...that one took a chunk out of the table.
I swear, it's a wonder i survived the first three years in business.
And I was just laughing to myself because I now rememeber that one of things we purchased for our planer was the sharpening head attachment. Maybe it was just a good sales technique to get people who witnessed the demonstration to upgrade into the factory mounted sharpening head.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Well....money makes the world...and planers...go 'round. <G>
I'm pretty sure it was in FWW mag. Or Tips book.
Wrap the stone with newspaper ( for ele. above the outfeed table) turn on jointer, advance stone over knives.
I do know my stonne was jumping ea. revolution and in a moment of self preservation, I said " this is F'n nuts" and pulled back..LOL.
I can still count to 21 , everything is still attached.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
I recall just getting dull knives and a divot in my stone trying it. And lots o' chatter...BTW, can't recall if i told you, but your check for the vet meds came. I sent your and Rosiee's sentiments on to the vet. Nice... ;^)
Same here. I recall it was touted as a cure for jointing figured wood, reduce tearout. Didn't sharpen the knives but altered to cutting arc with a blunt following grind..yeah right..and I have a bridge for sale.
I got the email, just crazy busy and didn't/couldn't reply.
Tanks agin dear...I think of you whenever I poke needles in pups now. (G)Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
Ideally it would be perfectly even, but after the hair edge gets knocked off the knives they'll be that much lower than the outfeed table, and the piece will knock against it.
At least that's what would happen to me before I learned the "move a block 1/8" trick.
I have that jointer. I like it for the portability but the small table can be a problem. I try to keep even pressure on the piece on the outfeed table. I just built some oak shelves using this tool it worked quite well even though I also noticed the boards did not align perfectly right off the table. Once clamped and glued it was perfect.
I am not familiar with the Delta 6" model the OP is having trouble with. I have the 8" shop hoss.
Do the instructions change from model to model?
The instructions with the 8" model says to apply presure on the infeed side. I haven't had any problems with mine to date, but maybe it is because it is a long bed model and I've been sucessful on dumb luck for years.
Other than something wrong in the set up, I can see where the pressure being applied on the wrong side of the cutter could be an issue.
Like I said, maybe I've been flying on dumb luck. Can you or anyone else explain the outfeed pressure thing?
Presssure on the out feed is what registers the new edge to a guide plane. Infeed can be concave ( best) or convex and feed pressue there can repeat as it passes over the knives.
I always feed concave side down nip the end and skip the hollow center, nip the other end. Then a few passes along the whole length, using the out feed as support.
If you convex down, you need to take a swipe or two to get the center area flat and true before long passes, or else you can pivot or rock and still not have a truely straight edge.
My jointer with an extension outfeed roller is almost 7',so I often can joint 14' or longer. The Ryobi AH-115 was a hell of a machine, I am going on 25 yrs with it. I just wish it was wider, and I had the forethought to purchase every spare part I may need in the future. I finally got the motor bearings r&r'd and it was a PITA, but I should be good for a long time now.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Welcome to Poo-ville, can I have your socks?Seriously Folks, I need a home for 3 lovers of your life.
I also fly on "dumb luck air". 6 years ago I was sitting in a truck. Everything i've learned has been SOP, reading, and doing on mmy own.
To my feeble brain it made sense to me to press on the finish side, i'll try it your way next time.
My advice is to get a good blade for the table saw and glue up straight from the saw. With a good blade and a well tuned saw with a zero clearance insert, my rips are straight and smooth enough to glue up. No need to mess with the jointer.
Thanks for all the advice everyone. I'm not going to get a chance to get back into the workshop until this weekend, but I will check everything out again and try some of the techniques you all suggested. I'll let you know how I make out.
And hopefully I don't lose that (w)hole finger .... :)Shawn
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Checker Contracting - SE Michigan
http://www.woodcentral.com/bparticles/knife_adjustment.shtmlAbove is a link with pictures that'll do you some good. I don't use a straightedge where they do, but a little block of walnut instead so as not to have metal contacting metal, and i only roll the bit of walnut forward about a quarter inch. This is the way you set the knives precisely and it takes a boatload of time usually, but it's critical, as is having your tables parallel, even if you have to shim them.
Edited 4/17/2008 2:18 pm by splintergroupie
It bothered me that you got as many different aswers as you did that conflicted with each other (and Mine to tell the truth). I'm no expert. I have a delta 4" jointer. But I work hard on getting things right.
So I went over to Knots and did a search on "jointer technique." The first one that came up said the same thing I did. Outfeed table and Technique. Those are the two biggest problems. I didn't need to go any further. He did mention that just brushing the straightedge isn't enough. I got that wrong. i have used the technique of the cutter moving the straigtedge a certain distance.
So i copied it. You can read it or not. Personally I'd use the tablesaw. But there's no reason you can't use the jointer.
At the risk of belaboring the point, I'll repeat the importance of having the outfeed table set exactly right. There are two ways I can think of to do this.
1: take a straightedge and put it on edge, on the outfeed table,with the end hanging over the cutterhead a couple of inches. With the machine unplugged, rotate the cutterhead. As the cutterhead turns, each knife should pick up the straightedge and move it about 1/8", no more, and not much less. Just grazing it is not enough. You may have done this, but the way your post reads it still sounds like the outfeed table is too high.
2: the other way is to lower the outfeed table until you just get a little snipe at the tail end, and then raise it 1/8 turn at a time until the snipe just goes away. Snipe at the tail end comes from the outfeed table being to low and this tecniue will positively eliminate the possibility of the table being too high.
I repeat that you cannot exert too much downward force on wood when face jointing on a jointer unless you have bowed wood and are bending it flat with your weight. A decent jointer will not flex, and you cannot compress wood appreciably with just the strength of your hands.
AS for technique, the advice you are getting above is right. Put your weight over the infeed table near the cutter for the first foot or so on longer boards, or the fiirst few inches on shorter ones, then transfer your weight gradually to the outfeed side of the cutterhead for the rest of the board. Keep your weight within a few inches of the cutterhead in either case, since that is where the action is. If you get too far from the cutterhead, the wood will vibrate more, reducing depth of cut and producing the results you complain about.
I really suspect that machine adjustment and technique are the most likely suspects, and that we haven't communicated them clearly enough, but once you are absolutely sure of those, there are a cuple of other possibilities.
Sharpness: Drag the surface of your fingernail across the edge of a knife. It should produce a tiny shaving with almost no pressure at all. You can do the same thing with the barrel of a plastic pen; the knife should catch with almost no pressure. It that happens, the knives are sharp enough.
Look at the cut surface. Any ripples shoul be barely perceptible, like the surface you get from a sharp thickness planer. Clearly perceptible ripples indicate either dull knives or not enough hold down pressure or both. Feed speed it not much of an issue as regards cut quality. Even if you have only one knife cutting in the cutterhead, you still get 25 cuts per inch at a feed rate of 20 ft per minute. The standard for commercial molders is 12 to 20 cuts per inch, and you have to work hard to see any knife marks with them. Knife marks from face jointing are caused by vibration or dull knives, not excessive feed speed.
Cut depth: Keep your cut depth between 1/32" to a maximum of 1/16" when face jointing until you are very proficient with the machine. Face jointing a 6" board requires 8 times as much down force as edge jointing the same board, and problems multiply with deeper cuts.
Table alignment: There's an outside chance that your tables are misaligned, making a V, which would cause the problem. This is unlikely on a new machine because the tables are generally machined together while they are mounted on the body. Just to make sure, raise the infeed table even with the outfeed table and check with a straightedge. The problem would have to be real obvious to produce the symptoms you describe. If they are just a few thousandths from being coplanar, don't worry about it for now.
Make sure your tables are tight, and don't move when you wiggle them. Again, highly unlikely.
There are only so many variables in jointer adjustment, and I think I have listed them all in order of likelihood. If they all check out, you WILL get a good cut.
My own jointer is a 50-year old, consumer grade long bed 6" jointer, probably no better quality than what you have. I can edge joint a couple of 5 foot boards and put them together, and from 3 feet away you can't even see a line where they meet. A dry joint looks like it is already glued. Even so, when I face joint I have to be pretty careful of my technique to get good results.
One of the above points is out of whack. The two most likely suspects are outfeed table and technique. If you check all the mechanical possibilities exactly as I have described, then the only variable left will be technique.
Now I think that horse is not only dead, but beaten to a pulp. I think I have covered all the variables, but you have to be pretty exact in going through them. If there's anything I haven't made clear, let me know, because I guarantee the answer is in what I have written. I've been through this too many times with too many machines and too many different operators, and gotten good results every time.
Well, I know you have all been on pins and needles waiting to hear if I fixed my jointing problems .... and I did.
I reset the knives so that they moved a straight edge about 1/8" as popawheelie's write-up suggested. I also discovered the outboard end of the infeed table was about 1/32" low so I shimmed that up.
Ran a few test boards through and it's looking good. I'll be gluing up my project tonite, but the dry fit looked perfect.
Thanks again to everyone for their suggestions and help!!!
Shawn
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Checker Contracting - SE Michigan
That's great! I'm glad to have been of some help. Sometimes it seems like I'm spinning my wheels in everything I do.
Glad you solved the problem. I hesitated to say anything about this issue because my one experience with the problem turned out to be a worn out jointer. The "ways" the beds slide on were so worn from use that the tables could never be brought into alignment no matter how carefully I made the bed adjustments on the machine. Cost of re machining everything was more than another used but not worn out jointer so I junked the worn out one.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
Oh, it just hit me that you have the smallish portable jointer. I've used a couple of them out of a new contractor's tool trailer, had terrible luck with either of them, and simply used our full sized machine.
I like a jointer, but needed one that could be moved easily so after looking at a bunch of the new 6" full size models went with the standard Delta. In 5 minutes it breaks down into three pieces--tables, stand/motor, fence--so one person can actually move it around about like a heavy portable planer.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Um...Splintie? Is your back getting to you?
If the knives were flush with the infeed table, nothing would get cut off, and the wood would just bump against the outfeed table.
Both infeed and outfeed tables are adjustable on most machines, but the infeed is the one that sets the depth of cut....
It's not the back, it's the drugs. Damn, i'm not going to handle anything sharper than a tea cup today...
I had written "drugs" first but was thinking you were off them.
How is the recovery going?
Well, there's this new man in my life and there's a tug-of-war going on between my impatience and my low pain threshold. He's the 15 year-old grandson of my neighbor whom i hired to help me since i'm so far behind with the garden project, but he worked me into the ground on Sunday. I recuperated Monday, then went and got antoher truckload of 2x8s....and changed my oil...and now i'm spending the day on Breaktime and Lortab. <G>
"...now i'm spending the day on Breaktime and Lortab."
That's almost good enough for the quote thread.
(-:
I’d love to trade caller I.D. for caller I.Q.
Please do! Rez already gave me the Chippy for a post on laminate shower surrounds. What an exciting day this has turned out to be!
1. Adjust jointer per instructions using some 1X.
2. Lay out boards how you want them in the glue-up.
3. Mark EVERY-OTHER board with an "X," the others with an "O."
4. Joint the boards with an "x" with the mark to the fence, the others with the mark facing you.
This will close up gaps caused by the fence not being exactly 90 degrees. You can pull out most other gaps with clamps.
Or, you can get a Freud "Glue Line Rip" blade and forget the jointing.
The outfeed table must be in line with the bottom of the scallops the jointer produces. It must be slightly below the top of the knives on the cutterhead. If not then it will produce a convex edge if the outfeed table is even with the top of the knives. If the outfeed table is set to low then you will get a snipe at the end of the board.