I’m extensively remodeling a circa 1880 farmhouse for a client. Here’s the problem in a nutshell: I used an Anderson Tw2852 egress window in an upstairs bedroom, but because of the post and beam construction and the low ceilings on the 2nd floor, the bottom of the window is only 19″ above the finished floor. Since according to code (R613.2 Window Sills) the bottom of the window is less than 24 inches from the finished floor and more than 72 inches above the finished grade, the window can only open 4 inches or have a grid which will not allow a 4″ sphere to pass through in its largest opened position. If I do either one, will it still be an egress window? is there a removeable (from the outside) grid that will meet the requirement of keeping a child from falling out the window and still be an egress window? Thankls
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whooooo boy... dammed if you do, and dammed if you don't
be interesting to find out the answer to this one
How about a really strong screen with some child-proof latches.
Forrest
One of the problems is that an occupant must be able to get out of the window without using any special tools. The old window was not an egress window but because this is an "extensive renovation" I have to bring bedroom windows up to code. Wonder what they do in historic homes?
Did the old window meet modern egress code?
If not then I would place myself at the mercy of the inspectors and ask for guidance.
Which poison is easier for them to swallow.
Thats the funniest thing i've heard in a while. I love when people that dont know how to spell "Hammer" make up the rules for using one.
don't have the Andersen Catalog in front of me so correct me if I'm wrong, but the TW2852 is a double hung, correct? You may have to switch to a casement to get a smaller unit size, but still egress compliant, with the special egress hardware for casements.
Put false grills on it if you need to match the double hung pattern in the rest of the house.
Bowz
Funny
I am just running into this for the 1st time. IRC 2006, right?
I got my header in (2x10) set it below the double top plate and my egress 3050's or 2852's are way too close to the ground . (14-16" to the rough sill)
I am gonna end up putting in a Microlam held tight to the rafters and have no top plate and steel gang nails I guess.
I recon the other option is to opt to a wider and shorter window.
Oh, by the way Mr. and Mrs. Customer, because parents cant seem to figure out how to keep their kids from falling out windows, we have to redesign your home.
Oh, by the way, since shingles and metal are up, we need to raise our price $5,000 so we dont loose money.
Ok, enough of my rant.
BTW- You could switch to a wider and shorter window that meet egress. The TW3046 is an egress and might give you enough height. Hopefully the header is wide enough.
Maybe change it to a casement. Looks like this will work. CW or the CX 135.
http://www.andersenwindows.com/servlet/Satellite?blobcol=urldata&blobheader=application%2FpdfContent-Disposition%3A+inline%3B+filename%3D400_C_Basic.pdf%3B&blobkey=id&blobnocache=false&blobtable=MungoBlobs&blobwhere=1200271475483&ssbinary=true
"It is what it is."
Background on this FWIW is that a guy who lost a child out of a window with a low sill lobbied hard for the 24" requirement.
On this one I would try for a variation based on the historic house / low ceilings / Catch 22 situation.
You might find some relevant links here - http://www.iccsafe.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic;f=4;t=008259 pertinent to your question.
Jeff
Edited 6/4/2008 11:46 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke
I can't give you a supplier, but I've seen security bar setups that have an inside release that lets them swing open in an emergency.
A local security company may be able to help you.