I am looking at a 1970’s rancher with full basement. I would like to tackle the job of putting in an egression window for an additional bedroom in the basement. Can anyone tell me if Fine Homebuilding or any other publication has done an article on how to properly do the job? Thanks for your time to respond!
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Learn how to fight wood-boring beetles and prevent home infestations with expert advice from Richard D. Kramer, an authority in pest control.
Featured Video
Video: Build a Fireplace, Brick by BrickHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
While many magazines have run articles about egress windows, the first place you should check is your local building code. Even the best article is useless if it doesn't meet your local code requirements.
...that's not a mistake, it's rustic
What do you need to know? What size window is needed? Or how to cut the hole in the wall? What is the house made of?
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Hi Ed; Thank you for responding. The window will be 48" x 48" in a 6" concrete wall. The bottom of the window will be approximately 36" below grade. I know someone who can cut do the concrete cutting but my main concern was in making sure that there was a good seal of the window and the best way to trim it out. That was my main concern.
It's set like any other windows, make sure there is adequate drainage in the window well.
Solid concrete, or concrete block? Have you considered the header over the window ... the one that needs to be there but wasn't installed when the house was built?
Are you digging a new window well? What about groundwater draining into the well?
Buy the window and have it on hand before cutting the hole.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
There are some extra rules that apply to an egress window that's below grade... the size of the well, etc.
There isn't much you can do when installing a window into a newly cut hole in concrete. Attach PT backing around the edges of the hole and nail the window on. Attach trim and caulk very well.
We tackled this project on our '60s rancher last year. Check your local codes before you start digging or order any materials, and make some drawings for the building department if you need a permit. Our code requires a minumum 5.7 SF opening for egress windows with the sill no more than 44 inches from the finished floor, and an area at least 9 SF in the outside well. We live in an arid climate where there are very few rainstorms and no ground water to speak of, so that made the drainage system simpler than would be the case in wetter climates.
We first rented a backhoe and excavated the well to a depth 24" below the finished grade. The hole was 6' x 6' x 5' deep, and it required a "couple" of wheelbarrow loads to move the dirt! It was by far the most difficult part of the job. Then we hired a contractor to cut the opening in our poured wall (10" thick) and just let the big chunk of concrete fall into the bottom of the well to serve as a base for the layer of fill gravel. They used a super-duper, remote controlled 30" diameter wet saw, and it only took them about 90 minutes to make the cuts. After watching them work, I'm glad we didn't even think of trying that part ourselves. The basement room inside was walled off with plastic sheet to catch splatters of mud and dust from the wet saw when it penetrated the wall.
The sides of our egress well are only 36" high, so we decided to use precast retaining wall blocks with a gravel fill behind, and precast pavers as the floor over the gravel. You can buy metal and plastic window wells if you need a deeper well, or hire someone to cast the well with poured concrete walls using standard forms. Just make sure your finished area at the bottom meets the code requirement. We have a 500 GPH sump pump in the gravel floor of our well, just in case it ever fills up. So far after one year, the sump has never had a drop of water in it. Depending on your climate though, you might need something more elaborate for drainage.
The opening in the concrete wall was lined with pressure treated 2X lumber attached with a power nail driver and plenty of polyurethane sealant. A notched header of stacked 2x8s sits on this frame and supports the structure above. Ours is only one story, so again, you might need something more elaborate if you have more weight to support. We ordered a custom vinyl casement window with egress hardware and installed it with flashing per the instructions. A stucco guy blended the well area and window into the rest of the wall above. Our well doesn't need a ladder because it's only 36 inches deep, but we did add a railing and gate to prevent falls from people or pets walking by.
The whole thing cost about $1500 and took three weekends to complete.
Thank you, your response was very informative. Bob
How much did it cost to cut the hole?
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
ED; The work hasn't been done yet since we are looking at the house at this stage but one local concrete cutting service said they would do the job for $250.00. It seemed like a reasonable price. Bob
For your title I figured this was a post about Poor Online behavior caused by windoze and IE problems.
like typing in all caps or flaming innocents or being a smarta$$ on a builders forum...
you know stoopid $hit otherwise nice folk do on the internet....
MrT, SamT, DanT,RonT,Ms.T…
Whatever…
Welcome to Breaktime!!!
Where…
The free advice is worth every Penny!!!
:P