Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | May 30, 2000 05:55pm | #1

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   i "The steel was installed with a coating of red iron oxide"

   I don't know if there's actualy some sort of product out there with that name, but it seems to me like it's possible you got yerself hoodwinked.

   Rust on steel = iron oxide. Both are names for the same thing. Rust on steel is usualy red.

   Kinda makes you go "Hmmmmmmmmm"

2. 
   Jim_K_ | May 30, 2000 06:50pm | #2

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   Elastomerics are water-based and do not inhibit rust. And my stucco sub advised me against using them on steel--said it'd probably flake off in a few years. Sounds like an inappropriate use of the product.

   One guess is that epoxies might make a better coating...

3. 
   Guest_ | May 31, 2000 02:07am | #3

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   Red iron oxide primer is a common initial coating for structural steel - which is where the common term "red iron" comes from. (Like most primers, it won't hold up for long to the weather without a finish coating.) Some suppliers do even use the term "red iron oxide" in the name, although it usually given as just "red oxide".

   Not all primers are compatible with all finish coatings. Most articles on finishing automobile bodies caution to use a "paint system" to insure that there is maximum adhesion between the finish coat and the primer. I am not familiar with Elastomeric paint, but I would guess that to get the best adhesion and durability you will want to strip at least the Elastomeric paint off and recoat with an appropriate primer and finish coating.

   I would guess that epoxy would be somewhat overkill for your application, however, it should provide a durable finish given proper surface preparation. Epoxy does tend to "chalk" if exposed to sunlight, so might not be the best choice for an exposed location. Be aware that epoxy fumes are considered toxic and appropriate respirators and other safety equipment should be used when it is applied (of course, you will also want a respirator if you spray on a regular paint.). For a more conventional paint, you might check for an industrial paint distributor in your area. Automotive bodies are generally steel, so you could also check with a local automotive paint supplier for appropriate primers and finish coats. (How about a little candy-apple red with pinstripes and/or flames... If you haven't shopped for automotive paints lately, however, be aware that good quality automotive paints can cost several hundred dollars per gallon. )

   For a less expensive approach, you could go to your local home center or hardware store and get some Rustoleum or similar primer and enamal.

   For some more specific advice on your situation, you may want to check with the Coating Clinic Discussion Board at:

   http://www.horizonweb.com/wwwboard/Coatings/wwwboard.html

   or the discussion board at Paint Coatings Net:

   http://www.paintcoatings.net/

   You might also get some useful information from you local steel yard or light gauge steel framing supplier.

   Happy stripping...

1. 
   Guest_ | May 31, 2000 02:59am | #5

   *Thanks Casey.I have seen tons of steel with the red primer. I have no idea why I didn't remember and put two and two together before posting. Now I won't be saying "hmmmmm" anymore. All I'll say is "D'ooohh !!!!": /

4. 
   Terry_Wilson | May 31, 2000 02:59am | #4

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   My new home was built a year ago and sports light weight concrete decks on both of the two stories supported by steel post and I-Beams. The steel was installed with a coating of red iron oxide and then sprayed with a light colored elastomeric paint. Almost immediately rust began to appear and continues to grow. What procedure should I use to (A)remove the rust and(B)protect the steel against further attack?
   Thanks,
   Terry Wilson