I have a 1/2 horse electric motor on my bandsaw that is acting up.
I turn it on and the motor tries to turn the flywheels but it doesn’t.
If I spin the top wheel by hand with it turned on, it rolls over and works good.
It’s not that old so I was wondering what the problem with it might be.
Any ideas for a fix? Or am I on the hook for a new motor?
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Replies
you got a start capcitor on it??
good place to start for 6$...
no cap it may have start windings controlled by a centrifically operated switch under the end cap of the motor....
might have saw dust in it...
blow the motor out...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
It might have a capacitor, not sure.
It has a small box bolted to the side of the motor, that might be it.
I will give blowing the motor out a shot.
This is typically a problem with the "starter" section of the motor. This may be the type with a start switch and start capacitor, or the type with just a "run" capacitor. (The capacitor being the lump on the side.) Most likely the switch or capacitor is bad. Very rarely the associated motor winding is bad, or there's a bad weld or solder joint somewhere.
If you don't know anything about it you can take the motor out and take it to a motor shop -- there's about a 95% chance they can fix it. Or you can have a shot at fixing it yourself, first by making sure the start switch (if any) is working correctly, then by replacing the capacitor with one of a similar rating.
The start switch is a centrifugally-operated switch on the shaft at one end of the motor. The contacts are "closed" (touching) as the motor starts, and they open up once it reaches speed. It can generally be seen to arc slightly as the motor starts up. With something like a bandsaw there's a good chance that sawdust has fouled the switch, preventing the contacts from touching each other.
It has the push button on/off switch. If that makes a difference.
I'll probably take it in, last time I tried to fix something like this it cost me even more money had I just taken it in broke.
I'll try blowing the motor out and check the switch contacts for a quick fix.
You sometimes see the start switch (current relay and/or timer) imbedded in the on/off box, but not for a motor this small.
People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
the switch is fine.....otherwise the motor would not run at all.
just unplug the saw and blow the crap out of the motor ..it can't hurt and it might actually work when you're doneI think Hatfield Electric is in Kalamazoo , is that where you take your motors?just pulled a 3000hp off and sent it there..
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3000HP? That's got to be a very BIG motor. If that's not a typo, then some pics would be appropriate
JohnIf my baby don't love me no more, I know her sister will.
not a typo , probably not as large as you think, but it had about an 8" dia. shaft..
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I take my electric motors to a place here in Battle Creek, it's just closer not because of the service because they are slow.
I will try blowing the motor out and see what happens.
Are the bearings OK on the saw? If the BS blade is too tite the bearings can get out of round and sieze...believe me.
If the wheel is at a dead spot, it may not want to light up on demand.
I'd also replace the motor with a 3/4 HP, if it is a 14" BS. Resawing is MUCH improved with that added HP.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
The saw runs great after I give it the Roy Underhill treatment. LOL
No grinding no noises sounds like a new saw.
When the last blade snapped on me I tried to start it without the blade and it was still a no go, tension is probably not the issue.
I can't seem to get this bandsaw dialed it for resawing, you want to take a field to Michigan?
Scribe a line for resawing and use a pivot point fence free hand steerage...very few saws are capable of tracking well enough to resaw with out veerage or wandering cuts.
Blade choice is NO.1 and feed rates and guide settings alter the cut as well.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Thanks for the advice, I need to buy one of those pivot fences.
I might be heading to Nashville TN. On Wednesday you busy next week? Maybe meet up for some coffee.
My cousin just bought a house and tore some of it apart to find terimites have eaten everything, so he wants me to come and fix it.
From what all I have read it is not the saw that causes tracking problems (although I think taht it can). But usually it is the blade. Diffences in set of the teeth. Either from manufacturing or "damage" to the blade.
Thats what I was thinking, the blade was junk.
I have some new ones just haven't had the oppurtunity for any resawing lately.
Only thing I have is 4x4 cedar posts and those are Maddog's.
No, you don't buy one, you make one. take a 2x4 and double bevel an end to a point...clamp it at the distance from the teeth that you want to saw to..perpendicular like.
Now you can reference off the point and swing the stock to follow the line...I necked down the end of mine to allow it to fit on my left as I face the saw and clamp it to the table.
Nashville huh? I am just a half hour from exit 90A ( southbound) of I75...I'll email my cell phone and home fone..my cell is outta sorts here at home...but I'll be in Lexington working all week.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
If after you finish blowing it out, it still doesn't work...and you are gonna take it out anyway, remove the belt,and try spinning it ,listen for a click, that is the centrifugal switch opening and closing.Tha't a good sign and a new capacitor is all you need, if not it needs service.
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Thanks for your help Maddog, I was hoping you knew something about these. I seen what you work on all day on the website you provided and thought this may be a piece of cake for you.
I tried blowing it out and its still a no go. Off to the repair shop when I get some money.
ah phooey, I thought is was gonna be a small problem......
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Not a big deal man, I bought the bandsaw for $100, used lightly. I can spring for a little bit of maintenence on it.
Thanks for taking the time to try and help this electrically inept carpenter.
I am going to try and blow it out again here in a little while, what can it hurt.
no problem, I know how you feel, I can't swing a hammer for sh!d .....
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The start switch is a centrifugally-operated switch on the shaft at one end of the motor. The contacts are "closed" (touching) as the motor starts, and they open up once it reaches speed. It can generally be seen to arc slightly as the motor starts up. With something like a bandsaw there's a good chance that sawdust has fouled the switch, preventing the contacts from touching each other.
That's exactly what I was thinking.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
I just pulled the back cover and there was a shaft and a fan blade on it.
Behind the fan was a few springs all connected to the shaft (maybe the centrifugal switch) and it clicked when I got it up to speed. When slowing down to the off position it clicks again.
Then behind that is a paper thin washer (maybe) and it looks bent to sh!t. Almost to the point of falling onto the shaft. I haven't got a clue what is behind that.
I blew it out again and put it back together with no extra parts. Same outcome, so I think the repair is way out of my league.
If it had a fan on it then it sounds like you have a TEFC motor (totaly enclosed fan cooled). Most woodworking equipement now days has TEFC motors and thus don't get dust in them and don't need blowing out.Look on the motor for a "bump" about the size of 2 D-cells. That is the start capactor and most likely the problem.Some hardware stores stock them.
I seen the bump and pulled the cover, it has a large battery lookin deal in it.
I'll see if I can find one.
Get the numbers off of it. It will have a rating of xxx mfd and a voltage rating.
make sure you get an exact replacement...
the numbers are the cap..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Even with a cap there is usually a start switch unless there is a current relay.
Common occurence for them to either get dirty or get worn and not make good contact. If blowing it out does not help, then take the end bell off and file the cent. switch start contacts.
Sometimes the rub strips onthe cent switch get worn also, fix is just to bend the contacts so they make contact whenmotor at rest.
I agree with IMERC, one other bit of advice, if you pull the ends off the motor frame, be sure to punch,with a cold chisel, an alignment grove across the frame and each end plate before dis-assembly. When you put the ends back on be sure the grooves line up and gently tap all around the outer frame end plates until the rotor turns most freely. If you don't do this you will have heavy current drain and could possibly cause the start windings to fry due to the motor not being able to come up to speed and kicking out the centrifugal start switch.
Virginbuild
excellent advice right there !.
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