I nailed in about 25 plastic gang boxes when DW mentioned that they don’t appear to extend 1/2 inch past the stud (box edge should be flush with the finished wall, as I understand it).
I figured those tabs on the side of the box would put the box edge 1/2″ proud of the stud.
Even if I moved the box out a little to get the tabs exactly flush with the stud surface, the box edge still wouldn’t be flush with the drywall surface.
What am I missing here?
I’ve (hopefully) attached a photo to this posting showing what I’m talking about.
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That's about right. Better to have the box recessed a tad than to have it be proud of the rock. When using drywall you're allowed 1/4" of slop.
The nubs are indicators of where the box should be placed for the application of 3/8" drywall and do not 'mandate' the actual location of the box.
Jeff
Yea because 3/8 drywall is so common, gimme a break. Those tabs are for 1/2" and you want the box to be in about an 1/8 just like it is so theres not any issues with the outlets and covers not being tight to the wall.
If you worry about getting them any closer to the face of the drywall now, your going to worry about how to fix boxes that are sticking out of the wall later.
the dif is so the boxes don't angle out beyond the face of 1/2 drywall when the stubs twist, or ... I did a place with outlet covers that had flat backs, no recess in them, trust me 1/8 back from the drywall would have been just fine ..
What kind of break do you want? I'm just quoting the manufacturer (Carlon):
View ImageView Image
Edited 2/5/2009 8:50 am ET by Jeff_Clarke
Jeff,
Thanks for the FAQ, spelling it out. I had speed-read the FAQ last Saturday but was in a hurry and missed the spot which answered my question.
Thanks to everyone else who chimed-in here.
Look closely at the picture. If that 2 x 4 had a square edge on it, the box would protrude out further. That little plastic edge is getting lost on the radius at the corner of the board.
That is the one reason I love to put the adjustable boxes in, though they are 6 times more money. You just turn the screw and perfect. Apply tile wainscot in the future no problem, just screw them out. Decide you need another outlet in the future next to or on the opposite side of the wall, just disconnect the device screw the box out of the wall run your wire screw the box back in. Garage or out building you may sheet rock in the future no problem install the box screwed down flush to stud then screw it out when you sheet rock.
I like them so much that if I do need a new outlet i adapt them to use as an old work box, by breaking off the stud wrap thang so the bracket slides between the stud and sheet rock. Install the bracket run wire screw in the box.
But as to your problem I agree with the other poster that you do have the box back a bit too much it is on the low portion of the curved radius on the stud.
Wallyo
wow ... I've see those before but didn't connect the dots. I've just scooched the other ones forward a bit.
Thanks Wally!
I understand the OPs problem tho ... i don't use plastic boxes anymore since I really like using a rotozip to do outlets but I'm still a bit of a ham-fisted ape with the thing and and buzzed out a few plastic boxes (doh!). I don't do drywall all of the time though so that's my excuse when the pros come by on the bigger jobs and ask why all the galvanized boxes ...
Brad now that I thought of it I have seen the adjustable boxes in metal too. Best of both world for you.Wallyo
wow, had no idea.
i am still impressed with drywall guys after all these years ... while i can noodle out a complex wiring problem or take a project from vision to delivery I still am terrible at drywall... any little tip for the small projects I don't sub out is great. not sure how I missed these little devils - much appreciated.