Hello All,
I’m working on an article right now with an electrician about electrical boxes that can get you out of difficult situations (for example adding an outlet in a plaster wall). The obvious ones – like “Old Work” boxes (with the tabs), as well as several others have come up already. But I’m wondering if any of you could share knowledge of specific boxes that have gotten you out of a unique situation/trouble. Or that have a certain amount of “wow” factor for you. New and Old work boxes are game – and heck, so are any others for that matter (exterior, in-floor, low-voltage, etc). If possible, please provide make and model number or at least a thorough description/name for the box.
Thank you.
Chris
Assistant Editor, FHB
Replies
Had a plaster ceiling over sheeting where cutting in a rect. box would have been a pain. Used a round 1/2'' deep box after cutting a round box sized area out of the plaster. Flushed right up with the surface.
The various boxes that allow you to hit the side of the joist while keeping the center where you want it. There are offset octogons and those with the joist space in the center.
The hanger bars for fan boxes. Cut a box sized hole in between the joists and slip the bar in, twist till the tynes lodge in the joist sides. Mount the fan box anywhere along that bar.
Madison (?) clamps for the old style Raco boxes work well in many situations.
There must be more.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Calvin,
Did you have trouble tucking the wire back into that 1/2 box? How did you secure it - screw it to the lathe?
The other two you mention will likely be part of the article as well. Those fan boxes that straddle a joist are pretty sweet. You see them all over the place now in new construction.
Thanks for your input.
Chris
One issue with boxes that straddle joists (at least the ones I have seen, which might not be all there is) is that the "saddle" is diminisioned for present day lumber. Hence they may not work in renovations on older houses where the lumber may be 1 3/4" up 2" thick.
Good point, Bryan. Check these out if you haven't seen them already.
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew77.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew56.htm
Chris, for the number of wires we had, no problem. In addition, the escutchion for the fixture afforded loads of room. We were able to catch a joist and sheeting above the lath. Very firm install.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Nice. Thanks for the explanation - I was just curious because I've run into similar circumstances where things got "super tight" in that narrow box.
It was a good sized round box, just a bit smaller than the trim on the fixture.
A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Edited 12/15/2006 6:23 pm ET by calvin
These boxes are the cat's meow. Used quite a few of them up in Wash. state. Finally found a source in Sacrmento, Ca. They easily srcew to the stud from the inside of the box.
http://www.smartboxinc.com/products1.htm
Arlington makes a number of special boxes including ones that are similar smartboxes.http://www.aifittings.com/whnew78.htmCombo HV and LV oldwork boxes.http://www.aifittings.com/whnew76.htmThe common expanding old work fan box/support, but this one is approved for use with I-joist.http://www.aifittings.com/whnew88.htmAll kinds of siding mounting blocks. This particular one also include the electrical box.http://www.aifittings.com/k_6.htmAn In Use cover that can be collapsed when not in use so that it does not stick out like the bubble covers.http://www.aifittings.com/whnew89a.htmThis is an external waterproof box that is recessed into the wall so when in use it does not stick out.They have a number of versions for different siding and old work. Here are a coupld of examples.http://www.aifittings.com/whnew74_retrofit.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew74_stucco.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew74_existingvinyl.htm
http://www.aifittings.com/whnew86.htm.
.
Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Bill -
Thanks for the list. Especially the exterior ones at the bottom of your post. Those moutning brackets for siding and stucco look pretty slick. I'll check them out further.
Chris
Boy is that a bunch of good info! Thanks, I bookmarked it for future ref.
Thanks, Migraine. I've seen these and they'll likely be part of the article. I know electricians like them because they can move them easily (especially in custom homes when outlets/switches often get moved).
Chris
I don't know that there's any "wow" here, but I'd put in a good word for *big* boxes. 4 11/16" square by 2 1/8" deep boxes make it easier to put everything together -- especially if you have to get a couple dimmers in there.
-- J.S.
No "wow" but a great point. Thanks, John. I'm trying to figure out how to work that idea (larger-than-normal cu.in. capacity) into the article. There are more cool boxes out there than I imagined.
Chris
Boxes that have the depth adjusting scrw so you can tweak the depth to be flush with the wall surface.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
FastEddie
My autor recently showed me the boxes you're talking about. They have some decent "wow" factor in MHO. They're perfect for boxes above the counter (especially when the homeowner has yet to decide on tile, etc.) and there are plenty of other places where they could come in handy. These will be in the article for sure.
Thanks -
Chris
Had to mount a switch box in such a way that it protruded into the shelf space behind the drywall. Used a 'mobile home' (?) box that's only about 1/100000000000000" deeper than the switch. Picked up another 1/4" by mounting it flush with 1/4" DW and putting another 1/4" DW layer over it.
There was just enough box sticking out the back of the DW to get the wires into it. Ran them through that tacky looking protector thingie (gratuitous high tech verbiage) that gets added to the face of walls when there's no other way to run wires where you want them. It's hidden in the closet where the shelves are.
With my SWMBO, I gotta find every cubic centimeter of storage space.
SamT
Now if I could just remember that I am a businessman with a hammer and not a craftsman with a business....."anonymous". . .segundo
I think local code has alot to do with it... we all but never use a 2x4 box not because we aren't allowed to... it just makes no economic sense... vs a 4x4 box with a single gang plaster/mud ring... you might spend 50cents extra for the 4x4 with ring... but it will save 5 min which is $5 for most sparkies....
I also go for the 4x4 boxes with the side brackets... they save 1-2 min per box and end up much stiffer and plumb with the wall vs screw'n thru holes inside the box...
I can't use romex but i can use MC cable here... they make a killer box with MC clamps built into the box... which will save you 50cents per fitting and prob another 50cents in labor ... but for some reason they aren't allowed here...
everyone here knows I'll go to some extreams to save a few bucks... but when i'm pay'n a guy a dollar a minute.... I go for whatever saves him time and keeps him happy.... BIG boxes... snap in fittings/connectors and lots of whatever he needs to keep working....
I'll second the adjustable depth boxes... very trick
p
Ponytl -
Just curious - why not use the deeper 2x4 boxes instead of the 4x4 w/ the drywall ring? Is there that much cu.in. difference?
Chris
it's really not a cubic inch thing.... it's a speed thing.... my electrican likes the room a 4x4 box gives him to work... even with deep 2x4 boxes once you try to stuff a dimmer switch in one there isn't much room left... with 4x4 boxes it also gives you alot more options in this day of killer wire prices we can use alot of 12-3 or even 12-4 for a run and then if we have a 4 x 4 box we can then go... 12-2 or 12-3 on down the line... (all MC cable) so it's wire management and the room in a 4x4 box sometimes opens up these options... it's also a sku thing I buy 2 type boxes to cover everything (cept ceiling fans) std 4x4 bracket boxes and 4x4 deep boxes all with 1/2 & 3/4 ko
we mostly use the 4x4 boxes with the side brackets... keeps the screw out of the box and they self register on the stud.... time wise bracket boxes mount 3 to 1 vers try'n to get screws in the holes and into a stud of a non bracket box and seem to be alot stiffer...
just what seems to work for us... if you do the same thing on everything you build it save alot of questions...
p
We had to re-wire ceramic lights set in concrete plaster from the back side of the wall. We used octagon box extensions mounted to the concrete plaster with plastic anchors over the hole in the concrete plaster.
We ran the new #14 thhn through the ceramic hole to the socket then spliced to the 12-2-g brought in the extension with a connector - then of course covered with a plate.
I'm with Fasteddie, those adjustable boxes are great. I had my electrician use them in my kitchen over the counter in case I decide to add a tile backsplash, just twist the screw and they'll be flush with new surface.
Mike
Trust in God, but row away from the rocks.
Shallow (1 1/4" deep IIRC) single-gang plastic box is just right to mount a switch in a pocket-slider wall. Screw it to the 3/4" stile, just below one of the rails. You can staple your romex along the underside of the rail to keep it from interfering with the door, running to the back of the pocket where you can route it into the wall, and then up to the light or fan or whatever.
I have put as much as a triple switch in one of those for bathroom light, shower light and fan.
Again the adjustable boxes....for outside outlets. No matter where the siding ends up, you just adjust till its flush.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
I don't have a model or no., but this was definitely a 'wow' factor. We had a 3-story stair tower, stairs on 3 sides with landings on the corners, each landing had 2 windows. The only straight shot for framing was in the middle of each face of the tower. We installed psl framing at these locations to help take lateral loads.
This was also the only spot to put a wall sconce. The electrician had this really cool box that was essentially a pancake with a pocket that extended back on the side for wiring. Kind of 'L' shaped, it fit right up tight against the psl. The sconce was within a 1/4" of being centered.
Tek
is this the box: http://www.aifittings.com/whnew56.htm ?
Chris
That's the one! I remember the electrician mentioning something about it being a fan box. Here's a picture of the upper level of the tower with the sconces.
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