When wiring for lights in the forever garage, I placed 4″ ceiling box dead center for 8′ fluorescent strips, thinking this would simplify installtion ‘cuz layout would be mostly done. Fixture has a 3/4″ knockout dead center, as well. Strips are tight to ceiling (sort of).
My intent was to wire fixture on floor with a short piece of romex stubbed through the center knockout , secure with cable clamp, raise the thing on my sheetrock jack, hook up box pigtails and attach strip to cieling with sheetrock anchors while smooshing wires into box.
Inspector says no to that ‘cuz can’t be removing fixture for box access. Suggests cutting 3 1/2″ hole in fixture, attaching to ceiling and then wire up. I’m thinking, no sweat, I’ll get a knockout cutter on ebay, cut the holes and life will be good, right?
So now I’m looking at fixture and it has standoff bumps on back of housing, so in effect it will be a 1/4″ off ceiling when installed, leaving a 1/4″ gap between ceiling box and fixture. A bad thing, right? I’m guessing inspector assumed it would be tight, but can’t ask till Monday.
In retrospect, it would have been easier to just drop romex out at light location and wire up inside fixture. Of course, that would’ve been too easy and not in keeping with my “let’s make it complex” methodology!
What say the electrical gurus? Is it even as issue?
Everything will be okay in the end. If it’s not okay, it’s not the end.
Replies
I doubt that there are one in a million box in a house that you can access without removing the light fixture.
The one exception that I can see can lights with the wiring in a box off the side and mounted in an accessible attic or removable ceiling.
So I don't see the problem that he does.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Ask politely for a code reference. Like Bill says, the vast majority of wall and ceiling fixtures cover an octagon box. But if you're going to drill a hole for the wires to pass through anyway, I suppose it might as well be a 3.5" hole.
I don't think the 1/4" gap will be a problem, besides, you're following his instructions.
Scott.
Always remember those first immortal words that Adam said to Eve, “You’d better stand back, I don’t know how big this thing’s going to get.”
a way around this is to install a plug pigtail on the light and a receptacle in the box. then the light is not a permanent fixture.
brownbagg
The problem with your plan is that you would have to remove the outlet plate and the outlet in order to access the box.
LOL
Rich
Not to mention opening the door to get in the garage inna first place.
A clock outlet is recessed - thus allowing for BB's suggestion.
My electricians don't bother with a box if it's known there will be a flourescent fixture. The romex is poked through a hole in the ceiling rock and later threaded through the knockout. They might even remember to put a plastic grommet in the hole.<G>
Then the connections are made in the body of the fixture and all is good and accessible.
If there is already a box, then the romex pigtail is still threaded into the body of the fixture and connected. No connections are made in the box so it does not have to be accessible.
Why don't you just pop a plastic bushing in the knockout hole and pull the wires from the box in to the light? If you have to add wire inside the light, so be it.
The 1/4" space is there for a reason. Have you ever seen burned ceiling material up against a hot ballast?
I know the space is there for fixture clearance, my concern was the resulting gap between box and fixture, but wasn't sure if that was an issue. I was thinking box cover, either fixture or whatever had to be tight to box.
I'll call inspector on Monday and run the bushing or nipple approach by him. There's a couple of ways to skin this cat, this approach would be easy enough. I'd rather do that than move fixtures to side with greenfield or plugs.
Everything will be okay in the end. If it's not okay, it's not the end.
don't cut the 3.5" hole...
install a 1/2" chase nipple in that 3/4" hole....
pull the wires thru the chase nipple and wire up the light....
the 1/4" is not an issue...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
or use a greenfield clad pigtail to wire in the light and put a blank cover over the box....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Your light fixture IS the box usually. If you have enough slack in your wire, just pull it out, hang the light with the wire going into the fixture thru a clamp, and do what needs done inside the fixture body.
If you don't have enough slack, what Bill H said.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Why not remove the box and simply pull the wire into the light unit?
This way all connections would be accessible.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.