Expansion Gap: Oak flooring/Fireplace
After completing the oak flooring project in our master bedroom that turned out fantastic we are now beginning the process of installing oak flooring in the family room.
There is a 1+ inch gap between the subfloor and the brick fireplace hearth. I am wishing to find out the best way to bridge this gap as well as take into consideration the expansion/contracting properties of both the brick and oak flooring. Butting the two up tight together does not seem appropiate. It is my thought there should be some type of expansion material and/or moulding.
Please share your thoughts/websites where I can learn more…
Thank you
Casey
Replies
My tile store, DalTile, sells sanded and unsanded grout caulk in every color to match the Custom brand. Comes in tubes just like regular caulk.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
We have DalTile around here too. Was wondering if this type of grout will work since both the oak and brick will have different expansion/contraction characteristics?Casey
create a custom piece of moulding to bridge the gap, leaving 1/4-1/2" space between the flooring and the hearth (dependent on distance of floor that will be subject to expansion) for expansion of the oak, nailing the moulding to the subfloor in order that the expansion will not incorporate the moulding into its movement. the grout will more than likely crack and even if not will look a little hokey butting directly to wood.
That's why you use a flexible caulk. Buy it in a color that matches the brick grout/mortar.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Okay, got a thought after talking with a friend. By the way, I am a DIY guy and our famiy friend is an accountant whose idea of making something is a takeout frozen pizza...but he does occasionally have some good ideas. Here is the latest:Give the oak flooring about a 1/4 spacing from the raised hearth. Fill the 1/4 inch gap with a rubber type caulking to prevent intrusion from air and spiders. Over this install a "floating" picture frame style moulding over the gap possibly with a small amount of glue or whatever at the back corners of the hearth to keep the moulding from going anywhere.The thought is that any movement of the oak and hearth will occur under the moulding...like two of the earth's plates sliding over and under one another. A little movement will be easily tolerated but if we have a big earthquake then all this is not going to really matter...Casey
That's what trimnailer was trying to explain.
My problem with that is that it creates a raised piece of trim, whereas the caulk is flush.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
It appears this is too late, but there really isn't a great way to solve this. You really can't 'nail' trim into the brick, and any trim nailed to the floor will move with it.
Had you posted this before the install, I would have had you use a jamb saw with a masonry blade and undercut the brick a good 1 1/4" deep and then break that out leaving a space for the wood to finish off into. This is very clean (except for the sawing!) and gives the wood room to expand. While it may be too late, could you remove 3 or 4 rows out from the brick, cut it, and then fill it back in?
the trim is nailed to the subfloor in the space between the wood and brick. in most homes, temp and humidity fluctuation is not that substantial in this modern age of climate control, and i think too much creedence is given to expansion/contraction in wood floors, given that temps are generally 65-75 degrees. as long as the wood is properly acclimated prior to installation, movement in my experience is fairly minimal.
and spiders catch flies, gnats, etc. (the things that actually bother you). i keep a few around for that reason alone. i say leave the spider gap.
Certainly a house that does not have large moisture or temperature swings should be o.k. It's the one time you don't you get a castatrophe. As long as you have a humidifier and a dehumidifier and know when to use them, I'm o.k.
BTW, when you nail down your trim, aren't the nails in the very gap we are trying to leave? And if you can nail it 3/4" away from the wood, what is holding up that side of the trim so that when you nail it, it stays level and not split? These are what I'm trying to solve...