Replies

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Jun 20, 2008 03:53pm | #1

   You could dowel the two sections together, or, you could employ Mr. Sledgehammer and start over again.

2. 
   CaptainMayhem | Jun 20, 2008 06:46pm | #2

   If you can adjust your elevation a little I would dowel(#5 rebar) all along the edge every foot or so and also put a few randomly all over the top just an inch or two above the existing footer than pour your extra perimeter 3 inches or so deeper over lapping onto the existing footer. Make sence.. I really don't know how an engineer or inspector would feel about that, but I have done something similar and it worked just fine.

   All I ever wanted in life was an unfair advantage...

3. 
   Ted W. | Jun 20, 2008 08:45pm | #3

   My first inclination would be to do it over. Doweling may or may not work and, if it doesn't you can rest assure they will hold you accountable. It's not your fault they changed plans after you already poured. If they want to change their mind they should be ready to pay the cost of redoing it from scratch. That's how I would handle it.

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1. 
   CaptainMayhem | Jun 21, 2008 08:13am | #5

   Yeah I agree with you on the fact that it should be done right and they(ho) should pay, but sometimes change order fees are non existant,maybe so in this case, All I ever wanted in life was an unfair advantage...

1. 
   Ted W. | Jun 21, 2008 06:55pm | #6

    but sometimes change order fees are non existant,maybe so in this case.

   A change order fee isn't the issue here, as that's just a base fee for any change in plans regardless of the extra work invlolved (or less work in some cases), more like a processing fee. What we're discussing here is added workload after the task has already been completed. It's already assumed the customer will pay an extra cost, or at least I'm assuming as much. The question is how much extra work/cost.--------------------------------------------------------

   Cheap Tools at MyToolbox.netSee some of my work at TedsCarpentry.com

1. 
   CaptainMayhem | Jun 21, 2008 07:39pm | #8

   Actually, the REAL issue was extending a concrete pad, but I got you....All I ever wanted in life was an unfair advantage...

4. 
   CapnMac | Jun 21, 2008 01:17am | #4

   It probably depends on how much area you are adding.  If it's less than a foot or so, bust and start over will be less effort.

   For a sidewalk type slab, my "reflex" specification is #3 dowels 12" long @ 12" OC, drilled epoxied into the existing slab 6"  This application might want a bit longer dowel, like an 18" with a slip sleeve.  Or it might not.

   The real key will be in the subgrade preperation, the new work needs to rest upon the same leevel pr prepared subgrade as the existing, or it will always move differently.  The concrete is only the finished surface.  Just like the floor in a house, the structure below the slab (even "simple") slabs is as critical as proper joists and subflooring.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
5. 
   Ted W. | Jun 21, 2008 06:58pm | #7

   BillD60, you haven't mentioned just how big is this slab and how much they wan't added to it. Or wheather it just extending one edge or all around. I think all this might make a big difference in how it's handled.

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1. 
   billd60 | Jun 22, 2008 04:46am | #9

   It was an 8'x4' rectangular pad.  The proposed extension is about 12' x4' and curves gently off the original pad.

1. 
   Haystax | Jun 22, 2008 05:17am | #10

   So 20'x4' then to redo - you'll need a couple expansion joints or keyway if you redo the whole thing.I'd dowel to the existing slab split the next pour in half using a piece of keyway with dowels through it, edge the joints and maybe the finished look of three mini slabs would suffice??Sounds more like a sidewalk than a slab

1. 
   Ted W. | Jun 22, 2008 11:33am | #11

   In that case it makes sense to extend the existing one. 32' is a lot of crete to break out, especially if it's going to need joints in it anyway.--------------------------------------------------------

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2. 
   DaveRicheson | Jun 25, 2008 01:24pm | #12

   Can you explain the "out door fireplace" ?

   I'm guessing the weight of the fireplace is not and issue and you are just talking about  enlarging a slap on grade patio area, right?

1. 
   billd60 | Jun 25, 2008 02:32pm | #13

   The plan changed from a fireplace only to a fireplace with an outdoor kitchen.  The fireplace would lead into the kitchen counter area, all of which is to be finished with real stone.  The pad extension would be an extension of the foundation but there is not an actual break in the masonry base or the stone to be aplied for finish.  Making a joint where the two foundation aegments meet would not be aesthetically acceptable.

1. 
   DaveRicheson | Jun 25, 2008 07:04pm | #15

   Making a joint where the two foundation aegments meet would not be aesthetically acceptable

   You answered your own question.

   Joint unexceptable means no joint,.....therefore and tare out and repour is in your future.

   Good luck on the cost issue.

3. 
   BossHog | Jun 25, 2008 03:32pm | #14

   "It was an 8'x4' rectangular pad."

   No way would I try to save that little concrete. It should be torn out and all done in one pour, IMHO.

   The heart of the wise inclines to the right, but the heart of the fool to the left. [Ecclesiastes 10:2]