Exterior cabinet faceframe wood choice?
Bob_the_cartoonist
| Posted in General Discussion on
I’m building an exterior garden supply cabinet on the back of the house. Any ideas for the face frame material? I checked the 1 x 6 cedar at the lumber yard, but it was pretty rough and knotty. PVC won’t hold the hinge scews I’m afraid. It will be painted, so I guess I could just use clear pine. What does everybody recommend? I’m hoping to build the frame tomorrow. The carcasses are done in CDX plywood over a 2 x 2 frame. Also, any door ideas? I’m afraid plywood would warp even if painted. Maybe T & G cedar crossbraced within a rail and stile frame?
Replies
Pine, even painted, will rot if exposed to the weather for long. How about pressure treated? Or find another place, maybe with clearer cedar.
White oak, teak, mahogony all weather nicely outdoors, but it's a shame to paint those woods, IMHO.
Pete Duffy, Handyman
Bob
Teak. Built a lot of outdoor cabinets with the stuff. If you chose to use it though there are some things you need to do different then you would with say cypress, cedar or even white oak.
Doug
Doug, what do I do different? Can I paint it?
When we build faceframes from teak you need to wipe the wood down with naptha before gluing it up, right before gluing. There is oil in teak that will compromise the glue bond.
Using this technique I've never had joints come apart. Of course you'd want to use exterior glue. Titebond II or III.
I dont know about painting teak, my guess is that it would be questionable but for what it cost I doubt that I would consider it. Its pretty nice looking but I suppose thats subject to taste.
If your going to paint the wood then I'd use cypress, fairly cheap, knot free for the most part, holds up well to moisture and can be painted or stained. Ideal exterior wood choice.
Doug
What do you pay for teak?
What do you pay for teak?
When I was in Texas it would run around $6-$10 a board ft, depending on quality.
Here in Iowa I havent looked into buying any but my guess is that it would be higher because of the shipping difference.
Doug
Of readily available woods, oak would be my choice if it had to hold screws well, redwood otherwise. Teak is superior to those two but I'd never find it around here.
Why not use marine plywood. If its good enough below the waterline is should work on a shed.
Bob
I didnt read you original post very good. I wouldnt use teak for such a project, thought I read that you were building outdoor cabinets! (gotta do a better job on my reading comprehension)
For what your doing I'd use cypress because I could get it cheap enough, it's easy to work with, its a very good exterior wood. Make your doors out of it as well.
Doug
Can you get cypress?
Yes, I can get cypress, but not in the length I need. The face frame is 11' long. I'm going to call other yards today. If I can't get clearer cedar, I think I'll use oak. I think the doors can be exterior plywood with cypress frames. I'll let you know what I found out.
I've had good luck with redwood for exterior face frames...looks very nice clear coated or painted. I've used it to make doors out of as well. And here's a second vote for marine plywood for the case...it's not that expensive and far superior to CDX for periodic wetting.
Well, once you answer the face frame material question, then doors are middling simple--use plywood with a limber frame. Which plywood? One to match, more or less, given that it all will be paint grade.
For face frame lumber, look to what is used for painted fences in your area. For me, that's likely to be western cedar.
Now, what you might want to check on are MDO, which is used for highway signs, and the exterior-grade MDF products. The latter can be very handy as it can be used both as "lumber" for frames, and as "sheets" for panels. But, it's unlikely to be inexpensive, though.
Here in central Texas, I'd use western cedar, and alternate orugh versus smooth side out for effect, and use a stain rather than a paint (or just let it silver up).
Well. this morning I called and found clear redwood 1x4's and 1x6's in the right lengths. They were a bit expensive, but it's my house and we're here for the duration. I splined the joints and used Liquid Nails waterproof exterior construction adhesive. They're finished and look great. Now on to the doors. Thanks to all for your input!
FWIW, I prefer resorcinol on redwood. Leaves a dark line in the joint, but positively doesn't creep, and seems to bond real well.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
I've used Ipe for outdoor milllwork. It's readily available at lumber yards and can be found in 1x and 5/4. A lot cheaper than teak or mahogany.
Kimball
I'd consider AZEK with a stainless piano hinge. That way, you've got lots of little screws each taking a little bit of force.
Bob,
White oak should be real cheap, 80 cents per bd.ft. around here. decay resistant and extremely durable. Why not paint it? it's cheap wood. Just don't use steel nails or screws. there is a reaction between white oak and steel that cause the wood to rot and the steel to rust..
mill your own out of 2 x 6 pressure treated wood.