I am currently working on a siding project that has crown mold around the exterior soffits.The evaes I can handle,but the plumb and level cuts on the rake have me scratching my head.The crown sits on a return on the bottom which would need a level cut.The top would be a plumb cut,but the spring angle on both is what’s trowing me off.The roof pitch and return pitch is a 10/12.The crown has a 52/38 spring angle.Is there any one who can give me a few pointers or the answer. thanks local95.
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I'm not sure from your question, but I think what you need is rake crown. It's a different profile than the crown that's run level, and is designed to miter together with it. There has been some interesting discussion of this issue over on JLC. Jerrald Hayes had some great photos showing different ways to accomplish this.
the crown on the rake never intersects with the level crown.It hit the returns from the roof.But I'll check those photos out anyway
At the ridge, if both rooflines that meet are the same pitch, just run the crown with the top profile against the fence and cut the angle (ex. 10/12 would be 40 degrees). Just orient the "top" of the crown towards the saw fence. At the returns, it is a compound miter. I usually make an auxiliary fence for my miter saw, ala Gary Katz. The cut ends up being fairly "long" on low roof pitches. If you can make a pattern to scribe, sometimes it is easier with a circular saw. With the miter saw, you have to set the miter for the seat cut of the roofline, and the bevel will correspond with the return's roof pitch.
For the 10/12 pitch, for the return cut you want a bevel that is 40 degrees, and a miter angle of 50 degrees. Make patterns for ridge and return, check the fits, then pull measurements off of the patterns while a helper holds or tack in place. You can do it!
Dustin Thompson
To add to what you so correctly wrote, just to clarify the level cut, and what is probably Katz's jig. Cut a plumb cut on a scrap 2X, in this case 10/12 plumb cut.. Now put the cut on the fence of the miter saw with long point to blade. With another board nailed perpendicular to this to serve as an auxillary fence to hold the top edgde of the crown, this jig will help you make you seat cut. It holds the crown the plumb cut degree from the fence, so when you make a 90-degree cut (a normal square chop) it will give you the reciprocating angle or seat, level cut.
Thanks for the clarification, I could sort of visualise smoking heads as people read my post!
Dustin T
Hahaha good luck local95.
I had to do three of them last winter. I finally started cutting them freestyle by hand. It was the fastest and bestest way that I found.
blue
Heres a picture of the house. It had crown in the front and up the gables. As you can see, the gables terminated over a roof.
I think this is the situation that Local is describing.
blue