I’ve installed windows jamb extensions successfully would a door be similiar ?? I’m installing an exterior door soon. On a pre-hung door, would you take the brick molding off and install an extension to the jamb and re attach the molding???
It seems you’d measure from the finish wall to the outside of the exterior wall sheathing and adjust the jamb in or out.
I’ve looked in the archives and index- exterior door techiques are few.
Replies
For exterior doors that swing in (which is most of them), the door shops that prehang units are prepared to make them with frames at the right depth.
But that usually means they are stocking frame and sill parts to do wall thicknesses at (all nominal numbers) 4-1/2, 5-1/4, and 6-1/2 inches.
They can rip frame parts to make up something in between, but that means you have a mismatch at the sill.
What is your situation that you want to use extenders?
After I did the thread, the thought hit me most folks with $$$$ order a door specific to the wall width...............anyway my wall width is 6 9/16 (Outide sheathing to inside drywall ) and the door is 4.5"
by the way, I have a red mark on my fore head when you mentioned the sill, I said "dooooh."
the sill doesn't have to be the same width as the jamb....lots of ways to play with that
??? and still keep water out?
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well, sure...
(especially if it's under a portico LOL)
seriously, I like making custom jambs..last on was almost 12' wide...the prevailing style of threshold (sill, if you prefer) in the area is 6' wide 6/4 oak, full at the door & tapering away to the exterior...closed rabbit in the bottom of the jamb legs, whole deal set on a poured subsill...piece of cake (as long as your careful to seal the endgrain on the legs, but I always do that anyway...seen lots of the nice, adjustable height wood strip insert aluminum sills lead to rot because the wood strip built into the underside wasn't sealed well.
A full wood sill as wide as that jamb would look clunky IMHO...only caveat is you need to use good stock, since the outer half of the jamb leg isn't trappped by the sill (G*d forbid you bury it in the subsill (stoop) concrete...seen lot's of those, to...they don't fare well over time
Some door manufacturers have jamb extension kits, and are usually installed on the exterior of the door, and include an extuded Al threshold extension.
Remove the brick mold, apply the jamb extension (I usually rip the jamb extension if required, or rip some 5/4 stock to the appropriate depth, which as you suggest, is the difference between the door jamb depth and the depth from the interior drywall surface to exterior sheathing) nail on, then reapply the brickmold, if that's your final trim.
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