$6400, sandblast, one coat primer, one coat paint. Reglaze windows as needed. I have no problem with the price, but is one coat paint the norm. Oil based Sherwin Williams.
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I'm not a full time painter, but I'd bet they will use a tinted prime that will be the same color as the finish.
For my money, I would want two coats. (I'm not a big fan of spraying either, prefer brush.)
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
I like brushing and rolling also. Thick is good but it costs more. When painters spray they tend to put on as thin a coat as possible. Just enough to change the color.
Also, I think two coats catches all the spots you might have missed. You could do it in one coat but you'd have to be real carefull not to have areas where it is missed or just thin. Two coats makes sure it is covered.
Generally, I would agree that two top coats probably would give you better value long term than one. My question is the oil based paint. You give no specifics but generally, the oil based paints give about the same life as bargain latexes but the price of the better if not best latexes which will have a far greater lifetime outside. In my opinion, oil based primers still win hands down on some substrates such as wood.
my mistake, oil based primer, latex topcoat of paint.
I thought the two should not be used together ?
Water-based topcoat over oil primer is done all the time and is recommended.
Oil-based paint over water-based paint is NOT recommended because of differing expansion/contraction rates. In the real world, it's also done all the time, but I don't have a lot of experience with frequency of failures. I suspect it's quite low.
"I suspect it's quite low."
Not in my experience.
Liberty = Freedom from unjust or undue governmental control.
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Thanks. I don't do a lot of exterior painting so I don't have a lot of experiences with failures (or successes either, for that matter). So it's good to hear some real world experience.
I realize that I'm no expert, but I just repainted a really scary faux finish in a bath, many different layers of who knows what.After priming a corner seemed to bubble , so I gave it a tug and the entire wall of primer and several layers underneath pulled off the wall like rubber saran wrap in a single piece. So to me that says different paints,oil and latex is a no no. ?
that little tale tells me two things that really have nothing to do with either type of paint.First, it was in a bathroom where moisture problems are typical with paint. It5 is very likly that at some point moisture caused a failure of the bond in one of those previous layers. Notice how many times in this thread I have mentioned prep work - that means removing old paint first down to the point where everything is well adhered. Any paint that will peel away or flake off is removed before painting.Second, There were multiple layers of paint already on that surface, so you don't know what you were dealing with, so the failure may have been started prior to your painting and maybe not, but you can't know.
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Exactly, I do not know what the previous painter used. The brand new house is seldom used, a second home of a multi millionaire who comes down once in a while, so moisture was not the problem.
Since I wasn't there, I'll have to take your word for it that moisture was no the problem - I mean you checked when you did yopur prep work sanding and all, right?Bu5t I will have to believe it because you KNOW - and NOT because it was a new multimillion dollar seldom used house. I see a lot of them and know that moisture is still a problem, in them, especially in the bathrooms.
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High moisture areas (bathrooms in particularly, but sometimes also kitchens) generally do better with oil based primers and paints.However, you have to consider what all of the layers are, and whether they were done right. Difficult to know when you are painting over other peoples work. The first layer that doesn't adhere properly screws up everything that comes after. There is no fix, except removal down to and including the layer that doesn't adhere properly.
exactly Brian....Susan.. The cost of the house has nothing to do with the quality of the work or the materials or the prep.
understood, I just ment it was new and seldom used , so moisture was not the problem. It was air conditioned at all times, and rarely used. Just the wrong paint , and lack of any artistic talent. Black dripping down the gold walls was a really bad idea.
Oil primer will penetrate wood fibre and bond with it better than latex and in some woods, will seal it better also. Latex will bond and cover oil primer very nicely if it ( the primer) is cured first. Latex can actually weather better.But if you paint oil over a latex, it can shrink as it cures and peel the latex right off the wood. ( this I know from an unfortunate personal experience.)
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"oil based primer, latex topcoat of paint."That is very good, IMO
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
porter paint makes a newer product called "perminator?" (Spelling?) that my brother the painter uses. eliminates the need for primer.
Thats Permanizer, really it is the same as Sherwin Williams Duration in almost every aspect.
Liquid Caulk is what I call it. LOL
BTW, we're doing a restoration paint job on a 1915 house, wood stripped down to bare, then SW A-100 Oil Primer, and 2 coats SW Duration..excellent results thus far.
I used Porters Permanizer on some of my homes fascia, both over primer and raw wood ( prior tested both ways) and if it is over primer it should be a fresh primer, not aged. I didn't trust the raw wood samples, but lo and behold, it is holdingg up well on the test pcs. Like I said, those two are almost identicle.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
does A-100 still come with the headache included free of charge?
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I dunno..I just point to what needs painting, and the painters do it. LOL
Actually that part is shut down till it warms up again. We ran out of weather before we ran outta house trim.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
If you have to smell it for half a day. you'll know!;)Actually it has been ten years since I have used it. Good stuff but whew! it had to have been a reason for govt getting rid of VOCs
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I remember getting knocked on my azz by Kilz original a few yrs ago..drove home with my side tool boxes open on my truck..never knew it. Lucky I think only fastners dribbled out on the short drive home.
I stick to lacquer headaches these days.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
permanizer, yeah, thats it. liquid calk indeed!
How do you feel about the acrylic latex exterior paints. Aren't some even 100% acrylic? If so, what about those?
Just so you will know, a sandblaster can really tear up wood if the operator isn't very careful.
I was thinking the same thing, I'd like to see it in action before commiting.
A few other comments: for the kind of money you are talkin' I'd want to inspect the job after the prep, but before any primer went on. Also, you might want to do a little research on paints. Again, for that kind of money a really good quality of paint may only add a hundred $ or so, but give years more service.
It's just the first quote. Ran in to get coffee at local convenience store and saw his truck. When I went in he was coming out, the rest is history. More importantly, I thought Sherwin Williams was a good brand.
Sherwin Williams is a good brand, but they have a broad product line. You may want to ask which line of paint they plan on using.
As an example... mostly I use Benjamin Moore and I like it a lot, but I don't use their Super Spec line of paint because I don't think it's very good.
Consumer Reports tests and rates paints. For what it's worth, their top ratings for exterior latex paints go to specific products by California, Pratt and Lambert, and Glidden. In my area, California is not available but P&L is. I've used P&L Accolade with excellent results (and it even smells good). Caution, the Glidden sold in Home Depot is not necessarily the line that CR rates highly. Several SW paints are under CR testing. They don't do badly but are out-performed by a number of other products.
CR is not a place I'd put any stock in at all. Their testing proceedures are not only unscientific, they're outright clueless. Typically, with paints, the paints that perform best are specifically formulated by those companies to do what CR wants them too simply because consumers read the drivel.
Case in point, a couple of years back, BEHR deck stain rated highest . . . while it was under class action lawsuit for product failure.
Car seats, within the last year. All the brands people trust, low. The ones that passed, not. And testing by independent labs completely contradicted CR, and there was an effort to get that message out because their findings were an outright safety hazard.
In my mind, their sole motivation in the world is to make a buck. The data, the facts, what people make of the info or do with it, not their concern. They review what will sell mags, and their reporting is in the same line as supermarket tabloids.Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
>> CR is not a place I'd put any stock in at all.I've had issues with some of their ratings, too. Cars in particular. Ratings based on reader responses are bound to reflect the biases, driving and maintenance habits of just those members who choose to respond. However, your conclusions sound a little too harsh. CR has been around a long time, they evaluate many products, and are bound to get some of them wrong. Testing paint is pretty straightforward though. You paint some boards and set them out in the sun for 6 years. Now, why a major brand like Benjamin Moore is not even included, I cannot explain.
Right, right, but they dont give them 6 years. A lot of the time they give them a couple of days, and any monkey knows with latex, that aint enough to begin abrasion and durability testing. Moreover they just pick a color, say brown. Yeah, thats going to cure out fast.
Real trucks dont have sparkplugs
my vote
two coats
and specify in the contract the exact paint (by name brand and by product name) to be used . I also like consumer reports paint testing- I dont think CR does "surveys" on paint- just tests- which are scientific. As far as I know they are the only people who test paint
those brands are not too bad, but overall CR ain't worth buttwipe, especially for pros.With regards to paint one reason their tests are flawed is that they put heavy emphasis on cost when determining values, but the cost of the paint itself is a tiny portion of a quality paint job. Time you consider the labour that goes into prep, using more expensive paint vs using cheap paints might add one pe4cent tot he cost of a job for a pro.But if a DIY is repainting a clean interior wall with no prep and the paint is the only cost, CR might mean something.BTW P&L is totally owned and produced by DW
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How much surface area?
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
About 1400 to 1500 sq. ft.
Paint is a wear surface, more is always better... unless you like painting.
Around here, the better guys do two coats over the primer.
And even with paying more, I consider it a far better value. I often see a one coat job needing to be repainted in five years, and no trouble at all for a two coat to be lasting 8-10 years. Since so much of the job is in the prep work, the least expensive part is that third coat - to nearly double the longevity for maybe ten cents on the dollar....
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Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
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doc,
check the medium they will use for the blasting, something like walnut shells, not sand, should be what they use.... and they should tarp the ground to collect fallout.
Some locales won't allow sand blasting unless you tarp the house, but they'll let you use a grinder and belt sander....go figure! check before you hire .....
1 coat oil based primer, 2 coats finish either latex or acrylic ......
The life expectancy of the job is in the PREP! Great prep equals long paint life...
and thick coats is not a good thing, thin coats and 2 of them does the trick....
So , spraying on, then brushing out is OK, but it's key that they brush it out, the spray just lets them get the paint onto the area more quickly and efficiently, then brush it out to level and ensure complete/even coverage
Geoff
Thanks Geoff.