In deep snow country, how do you feel about this detail, shown attached, and more specifically, if it’s OK, how much more would you increase the recommended one inch clearance between bottom of wall finish and flashing.
Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
The FHB Podcast crew takes a closer look at an interesting roof.
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That's a good looking detail-I think 1" is just right,not showing too much metal but not wicking water into the siding.
The flashing up the wall might be increased from 3" to 5 " though.
Not my detail. It is cut and pasted from Rob Thallon's Graphic Guide to Frame Construction, published by Taunton Press.
I've been guilty of skimping on the inch, but never on the flashing. I am wondering if I should go over an inch, though.
In my neighborhood, there are a couple of recently built houses where I cannot see an inch, nor even any flashing. Looks to me like a likely early rot-out, if the wood cannot drip dry and breathe.Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
In my mind, it is less a problem of early siding rot or drip drying, but more of an issue of whether the siding materials will wick moisture up and over the flawshing to leak or wet framing where mold can grow
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here's an example on a red cedar sidewall over a steep pitch gambrel...
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black coil stock apron flash
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 7/2/2005 12:57 pm ET by Mike Smith
I prefer a metal that I can solder the corners on-copper,l.c.copper,freedom gray,etc. In that way you can have perfectly watertight joints where you go from horizontal to a vertical run.
The actual distance for the reveal is a matter of choice it seems-as long as it's not tight to the roof and the siding is well primed prior to the install.
That shows 3" above bottom of wall finish, so it is 4" total verticle leg. A 4x4 is a typical for me. One sidewall flashing or step flash, I sometimes do more, depending how much water I expect it to see.
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What is the siding material? What's their spec?
FF
Not chosen yet, but let's say it is this, prefinished, in white pine.
View ImageGene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
An inch is good but a little more is better. My rule of thumb is to lay a 2X down on the roof and fit to the board. Hardie requires 2 inches measured in the plumb direction. It will rot if you're not careful. Do the same amount on the corner boards, also.
FF
Hardipanels will rot?????I thought delamination was their concern.
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On that first row of siding I would consider putting a bevel on the bottom edge to encourage the water to drip off instead of across. Leave a 1/16" of flat instead of a sharp edge. The paint will hold better.
gene... that is what we call our "apron " flashing....
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we use 3/4" ... not 1"
we lay a piece of furring on the roofing , then drop our siding onto the furring..
also we use color coordinated aluminum coil stock for a better appearance..
AND we put one more slight bend in the lower portion to turn it into a pressure flash.. making the primary bend more obtuse.. so the hemmed front edge actually clamps the roofing.. no nails on the apronMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
That's good detail for the top of a shed roof. If the wall is next to a sloping roof, of course, tin shingles should be used.
I'm partial to a 2" gap below the siding, to prevent wicking into the bottom of the siding, but that's a bit much visually. Partly it should probably depend on how visible this will be.