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Feed back please for the following wall design. I’m looking for a tight wall with no air infiltration. Poly.,ADA etc. seem very awkward and I really question their intactness with time. I’m considering a 2×6 24oc with a twist.When 2 framing members touch 1 of them is a 2×4 flush to the inside.This gives you a 2″ air space between the back of the 2×4 and the exterior sheathing. Now we fill the cavity with foam including behind the 2×4.This eliminates air infiltration that would occur if 2×6’s were adjacent to one another. Give me some feed back- good wall? bad wall? Yes , it will be an expensive wall and no, can’t use SSP because design is too chopped up. Thanks for your input.
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Feed back please for the following wall design. I'm looking for a tight wall with no air infiltration. Poly.,ADA etc. seem very awkward and I really question their intactness with time. I'm considering a 2x6 24oc with a twist.When 2 framing members touch 1 of them is a 2x4 flush to the inside.This gives you a 2" air space between the back of the 2x4 and the exterior sheathing. Now we fill the cavity with foam including behind the 2x4.This eliminates air infiltration that would occur if 2x6's were adjacent to one another. Give me some feed back- good wall? bad wall? Yes , it will be an expensive wall and no, can't use SSP because design is too chopped up. Thanks for your input.
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Good wall or bad wall depends on how much care goes into the wall construction, more so than the actual design in many instances.
The use of a 2 x 4 against a 2 x 6 as opposed to simply 2 2 x 6s against each other seems like a lot to do about nothing. Your top plate and bottom plates are already 2 x 6s so what are you trying to accomplish other than using up more time and money.
Proper fit and caulking between the framing members is more important than any schemes that I have heard of todate.
You still require double and triple studing at doors and windows depending on the span of the rough opennings. The wheel has been invented, just take time in building her.