Here’s a pic of a 4-5 yo two story house, brick three sides, that is showing signs of water intrusion. First noticed under the first floor windows, damp carpet, paint peeling off wood base, base pulling away from wall, a little water on the interior sill. No apparent damage anywhere except these first floor windows and the back door; other first floor windows have some type of mini-roof, the upsairs windows have the main roof overhang. My guess is that there is no overhang and the top of the windows (and door) are subject to a lot of rain (south Texas, so the rain is intermittent, but heavy when it comes). Fixing the dmage is easy, but I’d like to solve the problem.
Am I correct in assuming that the mitered corners is part of the problem? Most of the caulk is in good condition. Hardieboard siding, wood 1×4 trim. After I pull the trim, how can I flash the windows without too much deconstruction? I have not started any work yet, so I don’t know if there is any flashing tucked under the siding. If not, I will try to push galv flashing under the siding, use peel & stick along the top of the windows, and replace with hardieboard trim.
Edited 1/14/2003 4:42:56 PM ET by ELCID72
Replies
I dont see any head flashing on top of the trim. When you pull trim off you should expose the old flashing or weather barrier (if any) and them proceed accordingly. That miter looks like $#@t. Dont forget the flashing on top of the window.
I dont see any head flashing on top of the trim. There is no flashing on top of the trim. It looks like they installed the windows, then the sideing, then applied the 1x4 trim over the siding. The only thing keeping the water from running behind the trim is the caulk.
Dont forget the flashing on top of the window. I guess I'm unclear on what you mean. I expect to find some type of flashing behind the trim, tucked up behind the siding, and lapped onto the window frame. Is that what you're referring to? Or should there be flashing exposed above the trim? Suddenly I'm lost. Sorry.
Sorry for the confusion.
By head flashing I mean flashing that is usually 1/2"x 1"x 3". The thickness is determined by the thickness of the trim. 1" flashing would go over a 5/4 trim board. 1 1/2" flashing would go over 2x trim. 1 1/4" flashing would go over brickmold.
Another no no here is installing trim over siding. Trim goes on first then the siding butts to it. If you were to retrim the window take a pencil and trace around the existing trim. Remove the trim and clear away caulking. Take saw with diamond blade (that's important) and cut siding to line. Now you can access the window flange and check to see if there is any flashing around the window. If not they are probably all done the same way so you'll have to fix each one. That sucks but it beats a leaking window. Once properly flashed measure and cut your trim. It may be necessary to remove some siding to do this. Install sill and sides. Install top and place flashing on top of the top piece. Now you will need to put some type of weather barrier OVER the flashing so only the 1/2" x 1" part is showing. You will be covering up the 3" part with the weather barrier. Tar paper, tyvek whatever. Then install the piece of siding over the window top (you'll have to take this off to do the flashing right). Do your caulking and you should be leak free. I hope it works out for you.
I dont see any flashing over that top trim. That should solve the problem.
Nice explanation. Here in the southwest, most construction is brick, stucco, or eifs...we don't have nearly the experience with siding that you yankees have. I'm not sure I have seen any windows with the metal flashing on top of the trim...most folks here use the trim to hide the flashing.
It may be necessary to remove some siding to do this. Taking the siding off is not a problem...but how do you re-install just one piece? Specifically, what happens to the nails...is it face nailed? Can't bend the siding up like shingles to blind nail it. Removing all the siding above the windows is not really an option...these are first floor windows with 10 ft of siding above.
here's a pic. of some fibercement..... the shiny part over the window head casing is the aluminum window cap....
the 2d pic. shows the felt splines behind the side casing before the siding gets butted to the casingMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I like it. Any advice on removing/replacing one piece of siding?
FC clapboards are pretty strong.... try a slim jim right next to the nail... and then some shims..
is it blind nailed , or face nailed ?
if it's blind.. you can reach up with a hack saw blade and cut the nail... if its face, just keep on easin it out..haste makes wasteMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
If its face nailed and your lucky you can pry on the siding just enough to pop the nail head up, push back down on the siding and with any luck the nail head stays out enough to get the claw of your hammer or a pry bar under it to pull it out. If it works out you lessen the risk of damaging the shingle since it only needs to be pryed on a little instead of all the way out. Make sure to use a scrap pieces of wood over the siding when your prying against it so you don't scratch or dent it.
Actually from what I've seen it is fairly standard to apply trim over siding in the Southwest. Being from Texas, that was the only way I saw it done until I moved to Ohio. There was even an episode from TOH when they were working out of state (I forget which project) where the trim was applied over siding, and Norm was told that it was standard in that area. This is not to say that it is the best way, just that regional differences exist.
Glad to hear from someone else who has seen the Texas construction style first hand.
Listen guys...the existing siding is blind nailed. Getting the old/existing piece off is not really a problem...I'll slip a hacksaw blade or sawzall blade between the layers and cut the nails. The problem is how to reinstall one piece. I assume it cannot be re-blind nailed, right?
face nail it with SS ring shank nails.. just high enough so it clears the top of the one it goes over..
there are probably some already on your house that were face nailed.. like the pieces under the window maybe ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Not my house...it's a client. The trim covers those nails :)
I can't tell from the photo whether the siding butts to the mitered trim or if the trim lies over the siding. Without head flashing under the tarpaper and over the casing trim, this window is certain to be leaking. Always face laps downhill to shed water.
That miter might be poorly done but that doesn't have much to do with water getting in, IMO
I never promise anytjhing until I open up a wall around a window. I've been suprised too many times by how bad installers can do their work. Some of them are ingenius in finding ways to screw up.
Excellence is its own reward!
The trim is applied over the siding. Since the top of the trim is an inch or so above the bottom of the siding, how would you fit head flashing over the trim? Seems that the flashing would run downhill toward the house.
Edited 1/14/2003 10:40:01 PM ET by ELCID72