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I’ve read in other postings on this discussion list comments regarding facenailing floor boards. There were some who felt that you ought to stick with tongue and groove and others who felt that facenailing alone was just fine, too.
I’ve got some salvaged pine boards (random widths and varying thicknesses) that I’ve ripped and planed. I’m going to lay them in a couple of weeks but still have a few issues that I haven’t squared in my mind.
First of all, they are square cut, no TG. I have considered routing a tongue and groove but am thinking that the hassle won’t be worth it. I’m going to use square cut nails in the face since they’re antique boards. I figure the TG wouldn’t add anything.
Secondly, Would you suggest no more than two nails every twenty four inches even with 12 inch boards? Will that keep it from moving?
I’m also concerned about boards cracking through seasonal movement. It goes against my inner logic- nail a wide board on each edge- and can’t see why the boards aren’t going to split come winter. But I’ve seen these kinds of installations- so it must work.
Thanks for you thoughts
Derek
Replies
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Derek,
re: movemant and splitting, hold the edge nails a bit back ( like 2") from the edge to minimize the area that's bound up by the nails.
Many older wide pine floors in this area are not tounge and groove. That said, you will notice a difference in the movement under foot if you don't tounge and groove them. When you step on a joint you can feel the two boards flex independently of each other, even with a plywood sublfoor. But it doesn't particularly bother me. Onenegative aspect of no T&G is that the cracks are deeper and the dirt gets hard to dig out of them if you are inclined to do so periodically.
Steve
*There is nothing you can do to stop the wood from moving if it can take up moisture. More nails will just split it. If you seal the wood on all four sides before installation it will be less prone to absorbing moisture, cupping, etc. Face nails are fine for antique look.
*I agree with the two previous posts - I would use three nails on a 12" board - one in the center and one toward either edge (2" off edge is fine) - I think it would be good to get the boards aclimated to the enviroment they will exist in - with a 12" board, you could easily open up a 3/8" crack if the material contains signifigantly more moisture at installation than during heating season this winter - I'd also suggest 'easing' the top edges so that do not present a sharp edge to splinter - a pass or two with a jack plane will 'mellow' the edge -
*Derek, consider alternating your random widths at each course, narrow board then wide, then narrow etc. This will help minimize the gap due to seasonal variation.even on boards as wide as 24inch I have used only to face nails, usually about 2" or so from the edge.if you are using recycled lumber, your shrinkage will be less, but movement within the boards will still occur. Using a good penetrating oil/sealer like tung oil or duraseal 210 neutral will aid in stabilizing your flooring. I would definitely make sure your sub floor is dry, preferably dryer than your flooring.walk gooddavid
*Derek,I'm in the middle of a similar project. I believe the T&G idea is worth the effort for stability and because it gives you a shallower gap between boards if and when they move that can be cleaned more easily. But instead of doing a T&G, just do a groove and insert a spline. You achieve the same result without losing board width. Plus you need only use a splineing bit and there are no alignment problems by doing all edges at once. I'm using an oak spline for strength and since the spline floats on one side the wood species difference isn't a factor. It really isn't a lot of extra work. Also I apply poly to all edges and ends before I put the boards down to really minimize latter movement (that is a lot more work). I really believe in sealing all sides of every piece of wood I ever put anywhere, inside or out, to maximize finish longevity.jim l
*A suggestion and question both: What about ship lapping the edges? Less work and some of the gain of T&G. Any downsides beyond the obvious one edge not being held down?SteveW
*Excellent ideas, folks. I'm thinking sealer on all four sides with a groove and a spline might put my mind at ease.Thanks.Derek
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I've read in other postings on this discussion list comments regarding facenailing floor boards. There were some who felt that you ought to stick with tongue and groove and others who felt that facenailing alone was just fine, too.
I've got some salvaged pine boards (random widths and varying thicknesses) that I've ripped and planed. I'm going to lay them in a couple of weeks but still have a few issues that I haven't squared in my mind.
First of all, they are square cut, no TG. I have considered routing a tongue and groove but am thinking that the hassle won't be worth it. I'm going to use square cut nails in the face since they're antique boards. I figure the TG wouldn't add anything.
Secondly, Would you suggest no more than two nails every twenty four inches even with 12 inch boards? Will that keep it from moving?
I'm also concerned about boards cracking through seasonal movement. It goes against my inner logic- nail a wide board on each edge- and can't see why the boards aren't going to split come winter. But I've seen these kinds of installations- so it must work.
Thanks for you thoughts
Derek